question re. new route

[motanb]

Andrew Martin and I had a good afternoon yesterday in the upper tier. We started on 'Witches" and both got spanked! I had forgotten how tricky that route is;-) Afterwards we did talamasca, steal your face.

Before leaving we went up a new route to the right of 'olockitolot'; 4b and fixe anchor. I thought the climb to be 10ish? What is this climb called? Also, I got on 'evil' and did the new direct variation up the face folowing 4b's to anchors; what is this called (evil direct i suppose?) and grade (i thought 5.9??)

[Fred]

Sounds like you climbed "Finger The Mono Shorty 5.10d" just right of Olokitolot.

Not sure what the other route is that you climbed. I thought Evil was in the big chossy arch at the right end of the cliff but don't think there are bolts there. What other route was near there?

[Fred]

Tom:

Maybe you mean the direct to The Waltz? Up the face above instead of following the right trending dihedral? That would be The Tango 5.10a. It's 4bolts on the face above and the 10a part comes from the first two bolts of The Waltz. Finish at new rap station shared with "Community Service 5.8"

[Andrew]

regarding 'route right of OLOKITALOT' -- there was another bolted line between that route and the route Tom and I climbed.

[coryhal]

there is one new new route up there, to the left of monsieur torpedo, right of to save the princess. someone did alot of cleaning at the base of this one. anyone know what its called.

[Fred]

It's still a project for Jon C. He's injured at the moment.