Climb Eastern Canada

by **tracstarr** » Mon Nov 15, 2004 3:29 pm

well, i was reading some articles today about a controversial French climber. Anyway, they talk about glueing holds. Does that usually mean glueing them so they don't break? or glueing on holds to make a move possible? The article really wasn't clear in the matter. But the authors made it seems like it wasn't tooooooo bad, but preferable if it haden't been done.

by **martha** » Mon Nov 15, 2004 3:45 pm

glueing is usually when you ADD a hold to a climb to make it 'doable'.
however, some glue to repair a broken hold or whatever. in either case, it is hardly a 'pure' way to approach climbing.

There are a lot of great articles in past issues of rock and ice and climbing magazine. look for the history and evolution of sport climbing and you'll get to read lots about the many ethics battles that have taken place over the last 20+ years.

by **mitchleblanc** » Mon Nov 15, 2004 6:17 pm

martha wrote:glueing is usually when you ADD a hold to a climb to make it 'doable'.
however, some glue to repair a broken hold or whatever. in either case, it is hardly a 'pure' way to approach climbing.

Martha, where did you read that fact?

Every example of glueing I've seen is to reinforce weak or broken holds. For example, I think After Midnight is glued that way (could be wrong) and tons of stuff in New River Gorge has glue in the bottom of these really deep thin flakes that would blow off otherwise.

I have never seen a hold glued on (bolted on, yes). Oh wait, I did see some holds glued on, but they were the ones we glued to a bridge pier, that proceeded to blow off into our faces when we pulled on them. So that doesn't count.

I guess I'm on the fence about glueing existing holds... probably shouldn't do it.. dunno.

by **martha** » Mon Nov 15, 2004 6:23 pm

mitchleblanc wrote:Martha, where did you read that fact?

Every example of glueing I've seen is to reinforce weak or broken holds. For example, I think After Midnight is glued that way (could be wrong) and tons of stuff in New River Gorge has glue in the bottom of these really deep thin flakes that would blow off otherwise.

I have never seen a hold glued on (bolted on, yes). Oh wait, I did see some holds glued on, but they were the ones we glued to a bridge pier, that proceeded to blow off into our faces when we pulled on them. So that doesn't count.

I guess I'm on the fence about glueing existing holds... probably shouldn't do it.. dunno.

I've seen holds glued on. well...drilled out and reshaped etc.

hmmm.....

by **mitchleblanc** » Mon Nov 15, 2004 7:12 pm

martha wrote:
I've seen holds glued on. well...drilled out and reshaped etc.

hmmm.....

Yeah, I'm sure there are lots out there! People are real morons.

by **Guest** » Tue Nov 16, 2004 1:38 pm

what is wrong with glueing or drilling? i value people who create; especially just outside a quarry. context is everything.
cstamp

by **BolderBoy** » Wed Nov 17, 2004 10:58 am

So guest are you willing to say who you really are or would you rather stay behind a unamed shield saying things not many would in public.

by **martha** » Wed Nov 17, 2004 12:05 pm

BolderBoy wrote:So guest are you willing to say who you really are or would you rather stay behind a unamed shield saying things not many would in public.

thank gawd I'm not the only one who wants to call out the 'guest'

by **Guest** » Wed Nov 17, 2004 1:45 pm

what are you trying to say? my name is there.

by **Guest** » Wed Nov 17, 2004 4:16 pm

here's a hint...
c. stamp

by **Guest** » Thu Dec 02, 2004 9:26 pm

hey is that you craig

Climb Eastern Canada

glueing

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