New Mini-Guide - Cedar Point

[Fred]

Thanks to hard work by Cory Goodman and others, NB climbers have another new crag to enjoy.

Check out http://www.beta-source.com for downloadable PDF mini-guide of the area. Guide by Cory Goodman.

[Stacey]

This is an incredible spot - on a sunny day - - I think you could even climb in January!

Great work & kudos to the developers!

Stace

[Adam]

shirts off on saturday... in the sun and sheltered from the wind it was amazing!

[Greg]

Very cool spot, awesome friction and nice lines.

Nice work Cory, et al.

And a potential outdoor crag in winter. Sick!!!

[changela]

very cool spot ... loving the routes and the rock!

[*Chris*]

I can report that following SJ's heroic rains of Saturday this cliff was completely dry by noon on Sunday. Impressive. Albeit the weather was sunny with winds.

Question... has anyone scoped the 2nd large quarry for development? The rock is as per the first and there's likely space for another 8-10 lines. This is the area another 100m or so past the first along the trail. Someone has zoned it off with unsightly snow fencing for some absurd reason.

[Adam]

Question... has anyone scoped the 2nd large quarry for development? The rock is as per the first and there's likely space for another 8-10 lines. This is the area another 100m or so past the first along the trail. Someone has zoned it off with unsightly snow fencing for some absurd reason.

There IS no second quarry. /touches side of nose

[*Chris*]

ahh... wink wink... nudge nudge.

[anderfo]

did you read cory's guidebook, chris?

[*Chris*]

did you read cory's guidebook, chris?

I just noticed that mention in his writeup. However, I believe all areas are part of the same property... and thus, access would be the similar throughout.

Yellow lines demark property boundaries... pink is the footpath

[coryhal]

prety sure The Yodeling Yak 5.12 G was climbed by gram and lucas on saturday ( bolted line to the right of Torpedoes and Jellyfish 5.10b?? pulls a roof??) they found it to be 11b

[*Chris*]

Update... the guidebook should reflect that all three areas are indeed on a piece of private property as illustrated by the southern parcel on the above map.

[*Chris*]

New route @ the snow fence quarry.

Scrambled Signal 5.7 (T) 70'
FA: C. Norfolk. Climb the low angled and fractured limestone face to the highest point in the snow fence quarry.

I still need to pry loose a few big blocks so beware. I'll equip with lead bolts next time I'm back provided I can find something solid to sink them in.


p.s. Parking your car in a SJ trailer park may result in it being egged. Yeah...

[anderfo]

Made a few photos there today, when Fred tried MacGuffin.

[martha]

It was a great afternoon of climbing yesterday. thanks to all who have put in hard work at this Crag. I"m looking forward to going back!!

[*Chris*]

New route @ the snow fence quarry.

Scrambled Signal 5.7 (T) 70'
FA: C. Norfolk. Climb the low angled and fractured limestone face to the highest point in the snow fence quarry.

I still need to pry loose a few big blocks so beware. I'll equip with lead bolts next time I'm back provided I can find something solid to sink them in.


p.s. Parking your car in a SJ trailer park may result in it being egged. Yeah...

This route has now been equipped with a rap anchor making it easy to access the snow fence. Still plan to equip with lead bolts next time I'm there. Also added some maillons to Smuch's Unlimited's anchor.

Led several lines in the first quarry yesterday. Nice. Thanks to Cory et. al. for putting in the time and effort.

[cory]

Also added some maillons to Smuch's Unlimited's anchor.

Why?

[*Chris*]

Also added some maillons to Smuch's Unlimited's anchor.

Why?

Why not?

I realize you could leave an anchor there and retrieve it when done for the day. Problem is that you've gotta bring an extra set of anchor gear with you above and beyond what you'll be using. I find myself with not enough anchor gear more often than I have anchors to spare. If you prefer... you can continue to leave a full anchor when rapping in via this line.

On another note... that stone drills pretty freakin' fast eh?

[Fred]

Is Shumchs the main escape route? If so then I think a rap station is handy given that I forgot my anchor on my last visit.

[anderfo]

Unless someone have actually seen infected ticks at Cedar point I'd suggest changing

Black-legged ticks (a.k.a. deer ticks, bear ticks) infected with the bacteria that causes Lyme
disease have been found in the Millidgeville area.

to

Black-legged ticks (a.k.a. deer ticks, bear ticks), that could be infected with the bacteria that causes Lyme
disease, have been found in the Millidgeville area.

[Andrew]

I have to be honest... After learning of this tick problem, I don't have much interest in returning to Cedar Point.

Unless someone have actually seen infected ticks at Cedar point I'd suggest changing

Black-legged ticks (a.k.a. deer ticks, bear ticks) infected with the bacteria that causes Lyme
disease have been found in the Millidgeville area.

to

Black-legged ticks (a.k.a. deer ticks, bear ticks), that could be infected with the bacteria that causes Lyme
disease, have been found in the Millidgeville area.

[anderfo]

They're not dangerous if you catch them within a few hours. Which means checking every night after returning from Cedar Point.

Anyway the tick season doesn't start until June or something like that; the chance of meeting them now is zero.

[Stacey]

I have to be honest... After learning of this tick problem, I don't have much interest in returning to Cedar Point.

Unless someone have actually seen infected ticks at Cedar point I'd suggest changing

Black-legged ticks (a.k.a. deer ticks, bear ticks) infected with the bacteria that causes Lyme
disease have been found in the Millidgeville area.

to

Black-legged ticks (a.k.a. deer ticks, bear ticks), that could be infected with the bacteria that causes Lyme
disease, have been found in the Millidgeville area.

sweet - - more open routes for us hehe

[Dom]

do you honestly think there are more chances of catching ticks in Cedar point than any other crags in N-B??

Cory was just warning everyone when writing this guidebook

[*Chris*]

do you honestly think there are more chances of catching ticks in Cedar point than any other crags in N-B??

Yes. I pulled them from my dog every time I went there last summer and I also found them crawling on myself. I also know the Millidgeville population has significant levels of Lyme. This is not an ideal place to be wearing shorts.

[Matt Peck]

Funny, but I never have problems with Ticks when Im out ice climbing.

[theriault]

Cheers to that Matt!

[Stan]

Funny, but I never have problems with Ticks when Im out ice climbing.

I had to pull a tick from a fellow climber - on a semi-hanging station 1200 m above the tree line. Still have a picture back home.

Ticks become active as soon as the snow is gone. Early spring is their high season: hungry females have to find blood and lay eggs as early as possible. Lyme is easily treatable though. In Eurasia ticks may also carry encephalitis - that one is nasty...

[anderfo]

In Eurasia ticks may also carry encephalitis - that one is nasty...

Luckily there's a vaccine for that one.

[Greg]

Funny, but I never have problems with Ticks when Im out ice climbing.

Lyme is easily treatable though...

It's only treatable if you find the tick, remove it and it hasn't already had its way with you. Even then if you take antibiotics for it, symptoms can reappear months later. If you do get infected and go untreated the long term results are disastrous - arthritis, heart arrhythmia, meningitis, Bell's Palsy, flu like symptoms....the nasty list goes on and at that point treatment is not very effective.

Thanks to our healthy deer population there are plenty of ticks around and according to my relatives who live in Milledgeville there is an unusually high incidence of lyme disease there. Protect yourself. Wear long pants, a long sleeve shirt, stay on the trails as much as possible and out of tall grass.