Gear on Odin

[Burley]

Left Gear on Odin - please leave it. We'll be back on the weekend to fetch it.

Thanks

Erick

[*Chris*]

I also left my pride and ego up there. Please leave that alone too.

[Burley]

I'd be proud of that whipper you took! It was impressive.

Nice thing about leaving things in places is that you can go back and get them.

[Stacey]

Sounds like there is WAY more of a story there boys - - you need to share

[*Chris*]

I will not clog Fred's excellent site with whinings about my personal failures. My own site however... that is another matter: the story.

[Fred]

Dude! My hands were sweating something crazy reading that. Nice write-up.

Glad you walked away in one piece.

[martha]

nice work Chris. Glad you are ok!

[STeveA]

Chris

It sounds like you fell near the spot where I want to place a bolt. There was supposed to be a bolt on the first ascent, but I dropped my bolt gun just before then. After it hit the ground the bolt gun was dead. We finished usng stacked pitons. I still want to add that bolt. The climb was supposed to be graded A4 since it has dolts, sky hooks, lassoed wired nuts and RURPs. These are all backed up by good placements below them, but it is certainly not an A1 route.

Steve

[Fred]

The downgrade was pushed by John Bowles.

Let me know what the real grade should be and I'll make the correction for future editions of the guidebook... or whoever will be the next to cary the torch.

[*Chris*]

The downgrade was pushed by John Bowles.

Let me know what the real grade should be and I'll make the correction for future editions of the guidebook... or whoever will be the next to cary the torche.

The way I see it is that other climbs I've aided such as Snakepeel, Wisecrack, etc. have easy, bomber, and strait forward placements with clean falls the whole way. Those deserve to be graded as A1 (notwithstanding the fact that they are free climbs). Odin is a different beast altogether. I think that the amount of fixed gear on route negates the need for hooking so I wouldn't go as high as A3... but that puts you into A2 or A2+ territory. There's potential for big falls should you rip some of the very thin placements but the falls are safe. It's more intimidating than dangerous. I think if you go by the scale you describe in your guide then my assessment is fair.

[Burley]

I agree with Chris.

It is an amazing route in my opinion. Great route to learn on. Exposed, steep, beauty views, fun aid, long pitch, clean falls, and plus it makes you scratch your head.

I would agree with A2 to A2+ as a general grade based on other routes I've been on and how it all gets defined with "new wave" ratings. A2+: 10-meter fall potential from tenuous placements, but without danger. I would say it isn't A1 and it isn't A3... so it is A2 and if you use some more clean gear in spots it becomes +.

This is a challenging route for a new aid climber that is either learning to hammer in some iron to working out hard clean placements.

You can't take this fall length into consideration on the grade. Reason is that this fall would have been cut in half (maybe more) if a draw would have been put on the pin between the cam that blew and the pin that caught the fall.

I would say for sure that no bolt is needed in the area where the gear blew. I found the gear to be solid.

If you leave the hammer on the ground it is hard to say on the grade as I really don't know how much of the gear would hold a significant fall... I am referring to the gear that replaces the iron. So hard to say for sure... and if you are under 5'8" I'm sure it could be even more difficult

That being said, I'd give it an A2+ rating... it is a little over A2 through a section and not A3 given the fall potential. I wouldn't bother with a clean (C) rating since most folks will use a hammer on it.

[Burley]

Don't split hairs over it... there are only a handful of people that climb aid... A2 or A2+... who really cares... anyone that climbs aid isn't going to care about a + or no +.

It is a challenge for the new aid climber and the nicest aid pitch I've done...

[STeveA]

Keep in mind that there was no fixed pitons or RURPs on the climb when it was first established. Any fixed gear must have been added later. The A4 rating I gave it was based on aid ratings at the time, that stated body weight only pieces, such as sky hooks, were A4. If the ratings have changed then it should be given a new grade accordingly.

[john]

I found the gear at the top bomber there is a horizontal green alien as you pull around at the top. The fixed gear could be removed but as is, I have done it with only 2 placed pins the rest clean.

I dont know what you would need sky hooks for or any stacked pins. I found every piece on the route bomber, there is nothing body wieght only the times i did it, with the exception of maybe one pin/rurp, but there is bomber gear right below it? I dont care about the grade, but maybe people dont have the right size pins?

It is far easier then other A2 routes I have done elsewhere? What a wicked route though. Keep aiding it so it will go free

[Burley]

Steve,

For sure! Hooks might not be needed today, but different story when you are the first one on the route and require an extra inch... I might be able to clip that piton, RURP or hanger, from my stance, but I wouldn't be able to hammer it in from where I stand. I would say without question that the fixed gear on the route makes it easier that it would have been on the first go or if you had to hammer in all the RURPs and Pins.

Ahh... what a great line... blood is pumping just thinking about it... can't wait until Sunday!

Who has more fun than people?

As far as the grades go... They call them "new wave" ratings so something must have changed... probably because of new gear or something... not too sure, but that is how I base things. A1 states: "Placements straightforward and solid. No risk of any piece pulling out. Aiders generally required. Not necessarily fast and simple for nailing pitches." There are two placements that could blow if you don't hammer in a pin and there are two RURPs that wouldn't hold a fall above them because of the thin tat on them. This is why I say A2... I put a + on there because if everything went wrong you could fall 20-30 feet.

John,

I think you just want to make those pin holes bigger so you can slide your fingers in eh? Dirty dog... We're on to your tricks. That route leaves a little mark in my pants every time.

I want to be there when it goes free... I don't care if they have to wheel me in from Shady Pines.

[STeveA]

Aid climbs change more than free climbs because of the abuse they take. Many of the free climbs in Yosemite started out as aid climbs, and the same is for the aid climbs in Welsford. I wanted Odin to be a fun aid climb with a bit of excitement, but I wanted the grade to give people a heads up of what they were getting into. I suspect a lot of the placements have gotten easier and hence a grade change. I also hope that the holds are bigger and that it will go free soon. It is a great looking climb with lots of air time.

[Burley]

My gear is still on Odin and will get it either one night this week or over the weekend.

Anyone want to learn how to jug can join me and I'll trade ya for a belay. To climb and clean shouldn't take more than 3 hours. Looking at a 4 hour trip with hiking time.

Lots of loose rock on the hike up.... more so than in the summer... must either be from new rock fall or from ice fall... watch yourself.

[Dom]

I found some kind of a hook around Cheekbone.. Is it one of you guys' piece of gear?

I forgot to put it in the sign in box...

Anyways contact me if you think it's yours

[*Chris*]

I found some kind of a hook around Cheekbone.. Is it one of you guys' piece of gear?

I forgot to put it in the sign in box...

Anyways contact me if you think it's yours

Is it the Fifi I've been looking for since last fall?

Get up there this weekend Burley?

[Burley]

Yes sir... Rosie and I got in there on Sunday. Climbed it and cleaned it.

Your gear was bomber.

[*Chris*]

I bet Rosie's pissed having to clean up that mess for me. I probably owe her a new pony!

[Rosie]

The only thing I am Chris, is *sore*. I haven't hiked into cochrane lane in 8 months if you can believe that!

I certainly wouldn't say no to a new pony, but I'd settle for a beer.

[Dom]

Is it the Fifi I've been looking for since last fall?

I don't know much about aid equipment but as I am looking on the BD site, I think it's a grappling hook.

There was cut up blue and red cordelette attached to it.

[*Chris*]

Is it the Fifi I've been looking for since last fall?

I don't know much about aid equipment but as I am looking on the BD site, I think it's a grappling hook.

There was cut up blue and red cordelette attached to it.

Ok... not mine.

[Burley]

Chris,

I think Rosie was more upset about me getting her to carry a rope in and having to put up with me for the day than anything else As charming as I am... I'm really not that fun to hang with 7 days a week

We had a good afternoon. I ended up climbing and cleaning the route... Rosie just had to put up with belaying me. We made quick work of it - got to the climb by 1pm and were back to the car around 4:30.

Your gear was bomber and I pulled out 3 pins... so I hope you hammered 3 in

What a nice route... even with water dripping on me for the first 30 feet.

Gear was in good shape and I have some of your stuff in the pig.

[martha]

I haven't hiked into cochrane lane in 8 months if you can believe that!

Gees... that's about enough time to have a baby. Is that why you guys have been in hiding?!?

[Murph]

I ended up climbing and cleaning the route...

I read that too fast and thought you climbed it clean...

[Dom]

So you guys who have been on it..Do you think it would go free? Like 5.14 free or something? This line is very aesthetic.

Maybe Pee-wee Ouellett could get it?

[PeterA]

So you guys who have been on it..Do you think it would go free? Like 5.14 free or something? This line is very aesthetic.

Maybe Pee-wee Ouellett could get it?

I think it would

-PJ

[Dom]

That's be a good project for you next season PJ.