more routes at mt misery

[coryhal]

Out at mt misery today, jan. 23, the ice is in rough shape. We managed 2 new routes, the other 2 are last years un-recored gems

Doing the Dirty Work – WI3 FFA: Lucas Toron, Graham Waugh Feb. /09
Climb ice line to the right of “Straight Up” trending left at top

Test Drive – WI3+ FFA: Joe Kennedy Jan. /09
Climb the large flow to the left of “Little Dike”, involves a cool log mantel. A Special thanks to Greg Hughes for cleaning the branches off this one.

Flashback – WI4+ FFA: Cory Hall, Graham Waugh Jan. /10
Climb the cave on the far right on the upper cliff. It was renamed from “Mr. Fantastic” in the ice guide. This climb has it all; good vertical ice, stemming, chimneying, ice fist jams, blind tool swings...super cool

Golden Shower - M7 FFA: Cory Hall, Graham Waugh Jan. /10
Start up “Golden Pillar” then trend left up another short pillar to finish on steep bolted face above (b3)

[anderfo]

going there tomorrow. i guess this area is in even better shape now?

[anderfo]

oh and if some people have advice for which way to drive from freddy & for the approach (via st. john + ferry?), then now is the time to shout.

[coryhal]

the conditions are prety good, we were out there today and put up 4 new ice lines, ill post descriptions latter.
as for the approach just get on the kinston side of the river and walk east from the gondola point ferry, its hard to miss. theres several approach options

[anderfo]

Thank you!
Nice conditions today. We did "Straight up" and "Main street", and finally we top-roped a steeper line left of "Main Street".
Both Adam and Chris did their first ice leads!

[coryhal]

heres a few more routes we put up friday, probably the last of the pure ice lines at Mt. Misery.

The Cave – WI3+ 10M FFA: Cory Hall, Graham Waugh Feb. /10
Several possible lines at the far right of the of the lover cliff, see guidebook

Stalactite – WI4 10M FFA: Cory Hall, Graham Waugh Feb. /10
A hanging icicle, that occasionally forms into a free-standing column as was the case for the ffa . Guidebook correction: found 5m to the left of”The Cave”, not on the far right.

Freedom 24 – WI4 15M FFA: Graham Waugh, Cory Hall Feb. /10
Climb steep ice through trees to top, normally thin. Found 10m to the left of “the Cave”.

Cascade Falls - WI4 20M FFA: Cory Hall, Graham Waugh Feb. /10
Climb the thin curtains to the right and downhill of “Right Buttress”, then up one of two thick pillars to the top.


Graham and i also put up a route that night close to the gondola point rock area.

Let the Sparks Fly – WI4 30M FFA: Cory Hall, Graham Waugh Feb. /10
I believe this to be the first ascent of a very obvious route found high on the cliffs by Clifton Royal. Drive past the gondola point rock climbing area, continue west a short distance until an ice flow is visible on the cliffs to the right, obvious from the ferries. Climb a thin runnel on the right to a ledge, then up a steep thin curtain to a large tree on top. We climbed this route at night in typical thin conditions, involving mandatory rock moves, and sparks, above interesting pro. If thick it would provide great moderate climbing with great exposure. For some reason it’s one of my favourite ice routes to date

[anderfo]

Thank you!
Nice conditions today. We did "Straight up" and "Main street", and finally we top-roped a steeper line left of "Main Street".
Both Adam and Chris did their first ice leads!

http://folk.ntnu.no/anderfo/pics/2010-0 ... /index.htm

[Fred]

Anders:

In my opinion the quickest way to get to the following places from Fredericton is through Cambridge Narrows (see my previous post on getting to Kingston)

Mt Misery
Gondola Point
Hampton Marsh
Kingston Crag

[gwa]

Just wanted to say that "Golden Shower" and "When in Doubt Deck" are awesome mixed lines. Don't be scared off by mixed climbing. Give them a try. Mixed climbing is a beautiful thing. And it will keep you in tune for rock season.

Also wanted to give Cory some props for leading "Let the Sparks Fly". It was like some kind of weird reverse alpine start, in the dark after supper. We didn't really no what the route had in store and it turned out to be real super cool. Great exposure and loved the rock moves.

[anderfo]

Could someone make a (more) complete list of the routes at Mt Misery? Apparently only half of the routes are in the guide book and some of them are wrong. I wonder which routes we climbed this weekend...

Which route is this one, the one Matt was leading on Sunday, far left on the lower cliff?


And which one is this? "The Thing", or something else? It's on the Upper cliff.

[coryhal]

first pictures is the log route, i removed the log this year, its in the guidebook. The second pictures it johnny flame on the upped cliff, i removed the large dangerous hanging tree this year. The reason the route descriptions at mt misery arent very descriptive, is because it was a last minute entry into the guide, and joey only had one page. None of the routes in the guide are wrong, remember ice forms different every year, and this was a strange year. routes left to right as of now... more boltes to come!!

upper cliff: silver surfer, invisable woman, the thing, johnny flame, flashback

lower cliff: left flows, headwall, the log, golden pillar, golden shower (b3), tripple overhang, mernigue, when in doubt deck (b3), main street, straight up, doing the dirty work, test drive, little dike, left buttress, right buttress, cascade falls, freedom 24, stalactite, the cave

all new routes have descriptions found on this form. Im glad to see you guys using mt misery its a great playgroung in the sun with tones of routes, and lots of different link-ups. did anyone get on my mixed routes??

[anderfo]

Thanks!
I think nobody did any mixed routes. We had ropes on Triple overhang, Mernigue, Main Street, Straight up, Left+right buttress. Matt did one route far out on the right side (maybe Cascade falls? but it was very easy, although very nice and fun) and The Log (the top pillar was quite long and fun) and I did Johnny Flame.
I don't understand where "The Thing" is (the route I climbed was the steepest route we could find up there, I think).
Are there no routes yet between Johnny Flame and Flashback?

[coryhal]

the thing it a vrey sustained verticle pillar that usually formes in the center of the wall. johnny flame is on the right of the main flow, flashback climbes the cave right of that. there is no ice between theses routes just some easy rock

[anderfo]

Aight. If the "The Thing" is left of "Johnny Flame" maybe it doesn't exist this year then - it looked more like a WI1/WI2 if I remember correctly...
Anyway "Flashback" looks like fun.

[coryhal]

so i was wrong, the second picture is the invisible woman, the thing was just to the right of u. i was out there today, the thing is completly gone and would have been when u were there, the bottom of johnny flame is also gone.

mt misery is in bad shape only 1/4 of the routes are leadable.