FFA Siren's Song WI5 N III

[Matt Peck]

Armed with antiquated directions and an entirely misleading photograph, Roger and I headed out to Cape Split yesterday to scope out a rumored ice line on the coast. Lots of bushwacking and a sketchy descent gully (See Roger's report to follow) and a whole lot of beach walking later we happened across the very well hidden Icefall below:

Siren's Song WI5 N III 85m
FFA Matthew Peck and Roger Fage 09/02/10

Park at the lot at the Cape Split Provincial Park trailhead and trend north on trails to reach the bluff overlooking the northern side of Cape Split. Head East to locate the descent route (steep trail with fixed ropes) or locate your own way down (more fun/perilous) Head west along the beach towards Amethest Cove (before the first major point) and keep an eye out for the climb, it's hidden till the last minute, but impossible to miss.
P1 35 m WI5.
P2 40 m WI 4+
P3 10 m WI 4.
You'll need abalacovs for the descent. A total gem and a great new addition to the NS climbing scene.

[Matt Peck]

You can link to http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_XyNnmgtrSrg/S3LJi_V1g7I/AAAAAAAAAIc/sDOmqp4wx-0/s1600-h/22466_301819947957_517952957_3369012_6883292_n.jpg until I can figure out how to upload the pics

[Nette]

I'm really wishing I didn't have school yesterday. Anyone up for climbing this on the weekend?

[tintanium]

How about Friday? Massacre Saturday, something called Valentine's Day on Sunday. I'd like to keep horizontal happiness in my life.

[*Chris*]

Holy Feck! Nice work Peck!

[Eager]

Nicely Done. Is that on the Minas Basin side or the Bay side?

[Matt Peck]

Bay side. You can actually see it on google maps right now. It's shortly left of the first point after the photograpy changes from summer to winter.

[Rich]

Whoaa - that's spectacular. Nicely done. Think there are other possibilities for multi-picth climbs along that section of coastline?

[buzzard]

wow nice climb man. How many climbed it and how long did it take. always wanted to get over there but quite a hike. Any more pics?

[darrell]

Hey Matt,

I can't see the pic (juts has the red x). Is it just me?

[Scooter]

There is a link that was posted just below that post

[darrell]

Hey Matt - Nice climb!

[jeremy benjamin]

Good job on the FFA and FFD's guys. That is a hella lotta ice right thar.

[buzzard]

Hey guys anyone going to reply on the amount of time spent climbing this. How long it take to get there? how long for two guys to climb? want to plan a trip over.Anyone really climb it or just scouting it out?no pics of anyone on the wall?come on man give us something.

[Danger]

I'm with buzzard!
I know both of those unreliable pirates, just the folks to scope something out, touch the bottom holds (they have holds in ice climbing, right?!) and then claim the first ascent.
Can't trust no one unless they smear the internet with pictures.

But my real beef with those pirates, after buzzard insuates they bull shitted the FA, they still won't spend the time out of their day to provide him with their hard earned information... they must be hiding something!




well...that oughta stir the pot just 'bout right

[Matt Peck]

Ahem.
Okey doke, so not totally sure on total commute time from the parking lot, as we kinda fudged it, but figure 2 hours walk. Maybe a little over an hour if you totally had it nailed.
We sent the rig in three hours climbing time. It's a standard route at the grades posted above, so however long it takes you to climb that stuff.
Said we climbed it, and we did. If someone wants to tell me in laymans english how to post photos on here, do so and I'll try to post more photos.
Possibly more ice on that section of coast, but we walked a long way without finding anyting.
How's that?

[Matt Peck]

More pics.

[Matt Peck]

Many thanks to my super awesome girlfriend, who being much more technologically astute than I, was able to figure out this whole photo posting thing. I think I'll just stick to ice climbing.
Thanks hun.

[chossmonkey]

Nice pics. Good job on the route.

For future reference check this out.=> LINK

[buzzard]

good pics,nice climb will have to check it out

[Fred]

One question Peck... how many whippers?

[Matt Peck]

Not even one buddy!