pro kits

[climberwannabe]

Hey guys... is it worth while buying a set of nuts (ie Black Diamond, or whatever) that comes with one of each size from like 4 to 14 or 1 to 9 or however they sell them? Is it usefull to have only one of these sizes? Is it more comon to use a certain size?

Steve

[The Mitt]

A full set is a good idea, you probably won't be using #1-3 but they are nice to have, then over time double up on the med and big sizes. I really like hexes.

So you comming out with the stoners this weekend?

Mitt

[johnb]

Hey mitt, don't fill this new climbers head with old fart, hex propaganda. Hahahahahah (kidding, as a barrage of attacks ensues). Sure hexes are light, fit certain placements like nothing else, clank like cow bells on your harness and are really cheap to start a rack but realistically, if you want to learn (its great to try everything), but cams are much easier to place quickly and efficiently when pumped particularly on steeper terrain. Sure if you want to climb easier routes that are less vertical you won't see as much benefit, but I am assuming that you want a rack that allows you to grow into it as your skills develop, if this is the case you will eventaully want cams and nuts, and mabey the odd hex in larger sizes (to save weight of giant cams).

On another note, gear is regional, but generally, get a full set of nuts to begin, I regularly place all sizes, particularly the small ones despite what was posted, since in the small sizes neither cams or hexes will fit. Once you have placed a bunch and cursed the ones you wish you had doubles of, then go purchase doubles of the ones useful for your local area.

Good to hear another cliber is interested in trad, at least some of the Nova scotia OLD GAURD is dragging new climbers to the dark side!

[The Mitt]

LOL, As much as I regret to say I agree with Jon that it is regional, and a bit of everything is good. I just wish I practiced more with nuts (insert joke here) when I first got started. More and more I feel secure with a well-placed nut over a cam any day. As for hexes its really about the chicks, chicks dig the sound and the look of them LOL. Seriously I tend to use alot of hexes as I stay at the lower end grades.

When I am pumped and scared to death (often) I reach for the trusty number 1.5 wildcountry cam (most used piece on my rack)

Mitt

[Fred]

I think I saw a Hex one time in a museum. I have to agree with John that cams are much more versatile. The new BD's are saweet.

as for nuts, I like having a mix of different brands since they all don't work the same in different situations. Beware that the Metolius nuts are wicked and place nicely but are a nightmare for seconds to retrieve. They are my favorite but probably because they offer security to the leader (very snug no falling out fit) and I don't second very often. Although, I think I'll be passing the sharp end over this summer.

[climberwannabe]

So what do you look for when purchasing a new nut/hex? Impact force? colours?!! hehe. I wish I could make it out this weekend, but I gotta work. Are the stoners into shaping and moulding an impressionable mind like myself?!!

Stevo

I got this real serious itch to try leading baby!

[The Mitt]

Absolutely Steve you are welcome to come anytime. I would like to say that one nut is sooo much better than another but most of the time its what is cheaply available. I started with Blue water coconuts and like them but they are a bit pricey. Can't go wrong with black diamond, I have never heard anything bad about any of their gear. Of course you could go on an archaeological dig and find a rack similar to Steve P's rack (runs ducking).

Mitt

[granite_grrl]

Huh, I don't remember being too keen on placing too many hexes back in Nova Scotia....


In Ontario on the other hand they are BOMBER!!!

My boyfriend always asks why I lug the cow bells around, he's one of those climbers who thinks that hexes are useless. I will agree that they work much better in some rocks than others, but they certainly have their place.

I have the Black Diamond hexes, don't tend to use the smaller sizes all that much, I've started wishing that I had the #11 (I curently have the #1 - #10). The big ones are key. Get a set and see how you like them. And if you think they suck where you're climbing haul them out and try 'em again when playing at a different area.

I would also like to note that when down at the Red River Gourge over Easter me and my partner decided to haul nothing but passive pro up a 2 pitch 5.6 (hexes, nuts and tri-cams). I realized that its not that I can't place hexes as well (or better) and as often as cams....its just that I'm normally too lazy. I think that I'm going to start doing this more often to get me away from my cam dependence.

Rebecca

[granite_grrl]

Oh wait....nuts, right, we were supossed to be talking about nuts.....The set with the bigger sizes (#3 - #13) BD is really good. I think most sets (be them BD WC or DMM) come with the size range that you'd most often use.

I would say unless you're doing some long pitches one set of nuts will do you for now. And typically if you're climbing with another leader and you need two sets 'o nuts you can just borrow your partners (wait....does that sound dirty to anyone else but me? )

[mathieu]

I'd recommend the black diamonds, double up on mid sizes with something different.

My 2 cent: cams are expensive, you've never led in your life so maybe go this summer with a couple of Hexes (size 7,8,9,10). Anything size 5 and under you can cover with nuts. And I don't think you'll be leading anything where cams are truly beneficial. hell I don't even lead hard stuff, but i've got cams. The only reason I suggest Hex's is cost.

[climberwannabe]

Ok, thanks for the info. Does anyone know where I can buy hexes? I like the BD stuff, but MEC doesnt sell hexes, just nuts. Am I gonna have to order this stuff?

Stevo

Oh I am taking the Ground Zero Leading Cert tomorrow.... cant wait!

[mathieu]

Ok, thanks for the info. Does anyone know where I can buy hexes? I like the BD stuff, but MEC doesnt sell hexes, just nuts. Am I gonna have to order this stuff?

LoL. Fred and John are rolling their eyes now. I personally think its a good starter rack (1 set of nuts and 3 or 4 hex's)

I'm suprised MEC doesn't sell some, I tend to prefer the Metolius Hex because of their curved shape which helps go around little dimples in the cracks. I know Monod's in Banff has some but I don't know if they do mail order or even have a web site.

I just checked the MEC website and they have some Black diamond's and Wild Country hex's. I personally don't like the Wild Country (the curve is too radical and impractical imho). The easy thing to do is to order them online and have it delivered at the Halifax store at free of charge.

Have fun and remember to wear brown pants

A word of advice, practice finding the right size before leaving the ground.

Mathieu

[The Mitt]

Let us know when you can make it up this way. Some of the stoners will show you how to place the gear. I will show you how to fall or sit on the gear (by example of course)

Mitt

[Fred]

MEC doesnt sell hexes

hmmm... really? hmmm... Perhaps because hexes are a dying breed.

[climberwannabe]

Hey man, I am getting confused here... nuts are not the same as hexes right? I know this, but I cant for the life of me find hexes on the mec site. I can find nuts. I'm gonna check again, for peace of mind!

Oh, Mitt, I'd love to come out with you guys and learn from some experienced ppl. Its a pain in the ass being a shift worker though. Maybe withing the next few weeks.

Stevo

[martha]

http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_deta ... 3144460519

http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_deta ... 3144755872

There are the two different hexes at MEC.

[Fred]

Hexes are not nuts. MEC sells the Wild Country Rockcentric Hexnuts. These are my favorite if (I say if...) I were to use Hexes. They come with nicely color coded pre-slung with sown spectra.

my previous crack/joke was just meant to suggest that perhaps MEC are opting not to sell these dinosaurs anymore. Sorry to confuse you. They still sell them.

I still think you can learn on cams and learn to use them well without getting initated through passive hexes. Don't get me wrong, hexes are great thingamagigers, but cams are just that much better.

Cheers!

[The Mitt]

Today I was on a climb (before bonking my head) that I used 3 hexes on the one short climb. In each placement the hexes were the superior piece of protection, cams would have worked but possibly walked as I yo-yoed and sat on each piece (pulling the cams in several directions) the hexes just rotated while I was crying to the climbing gods. And once again had there been chicks at the crag they would have been impressed with the hexes not the climber but definitely the hexes.

To be serious I think it has allot to do with personal preference. Try them both and decide for yourself. Or do what I do and use them both. I do think Fred is right that less people are using hexes.

Mitt

[Matt Peck]

Yep I agree, with the above as well as John's comment about area relativity. When I went to the Gunks last spring the cracks just ate hexes, and saved me my prized cams for when I really needed them later on. Plus, lots of chicks.....
That said, Cam's have saved my bacon whenever I've called on them to serve.
As for nuts, I'm all about the DMM's. I've got a pretty mixed bag o nuts. (har har). I use Smiles, Scallops, And Old style DMM's, and the DMM's are by far my favorite, the curves sink super well, and the holes in the sides fit around crystals that would make other nuts hard to place, plus the new ones are totally anodized. That makes for some Schaweet Schwag.

[climberwannabe]

Hehe, well I found the hexes on the mec site. I guess I didnt see them before cause I was looking for kits. Perhaps I'll buy a kit of nuts and a few hexes. I think cams are probably great too, but they are so expensive to start off with. I mean, I gotta look at getting the best bang for buck... I also need to get quickdraws. I am really starting from scratch. I led last night for the first time at Ground Zero though... it was the bomb yo! I couldnt sleep all night.

Steve

[Fred]

Sounds like someone is hooked. Always nice to see.

[Mountain_Marc]

Cams are overrated! I use nuts and hexes alot more than I use cams. I've always preached that one should learn to lead trad with hexes and cams, learn proper placement of these then move to the Cam world. I noticed lots of friends make sure they bought cams first because they said they were easier to place than nuts and cams.

I still trust nuts and hexes over cams, any day!

How's the weather looking at Cochrane's Lane. I need to get up there for a weekend, revisit the old stomping grounds. Once in 5 years, that's not great.

[Guest]

How's the weather looking at Cochrane's Lane. I need to get up there for a weekend, revisit the old stomping grounds. Once in 5 years, that's not great.

it was beautiful in welsford all weekend. a few wet spots on the rock and the last remnants of the snow on the trail. however the first hatch of mosquitos was present, some of the biggest i've seen in nb... watch your step!

[The Mitt]

Hey steve,
Most of us have lots of cams. Buy the stuff you know you will use, draws, biners, nuts. Then use our stuff see what you like and then buy later.

Just a suggestion

Mitt

[granite_grrl]

Hey steve,
Most of us have lots of cams. Buy the stuff you know you will use, draws, biners, nuts. Then use our stuff see what you like and then buy later.

Just a suggestion

Mitt

Good idea. If you have someone with experiance and gear willing to take you take them up on the offer. Then you'll see what you really like to use, and what you hate. The more people you go with, the more gear you can play with. Just make sure that the person knows what they're doing and you feel comfortable with them.

Oh! And in your list of passive gear don't forget the tri-cams! They're useful little buggers.

[Mountain_Marc]

it was beautiful in welsford all weekend. a few wet spots on the rock and the last remnants of the snow on the trail. however the first hatch of mosquitos was present, some of the biggest i've seen in nb... watch your step!

I've been to Nunavut, Eastern mosquitoes don't scare me anymore. Black flies, now that's a different story...shudder.

[martha]

Good idea. If you have someone with experiance and gear willing to take you take them up on the offer. Then you'll see what you really like to use, and what you hate. The more people you go with, the more gear you can play with. Just make sure that the person knows what they're doing and you feel comfortable with them.

Oh! And in your list of passive gear don't forget the tri-cams! They're useful little buggers.

Yup! The tricam is one of my favorite pieces of gear! They are so bomber when in a nice placement and almost always go where a cam or nut would not. in little pockets that are too narrow for cams or in weird horizontal cracks that you cant' seem to get a nut/cam in. In Welsford, I carry pink and red tricams. and use them all the time!

Yes, use as many other peoples cams as you can to see what you like. You might find that you don't like the action on a DMM but prefer the Metolious, or love the Camalots, but don't like the aliens..who knows really...but it is better to know that before dropping 60$ on one!!!!

Also, a good way to get better at gear placements, is to second for a climber who places good gear. see where they put it, what they use, how they put it in, and most importantly, you learn the fine art of gear retrieval!!! That is a skill all on its own!

[The Mitt]

I love Tri-cams but around here I have not had to place any. The only place I have had a chance to use them is in Welsford.

Mitt

[climberwannabe]

Well I am heading back to Hali in about an hour. Gonna buy some quickdraws, and MAYBE a nut set... I am soo hooked. Then I am off to Gnd Zero to finnish off my cert (if I dont screw up!). Hey what the hell is with the snow anyways?

Steve

[Brent]

Dude, where you live and what you like to climb will determine what gear you should carry. The small BD nut's are useless for free climbing. If you have a full rack of cams 8 or more one set of nuts should suffice. Cams are faster and more versatile. When climbing I place cams 10X more often than nuts. That said, when I started climbing I learned the hard way 9 nuts with no repeating size better get you to the anchor and build the belay because thats all the gear I had. I recommend the DMM walnuts or wild country rocks. Metolious hold well but they tend to get stuck alot. You can probably get away with 1 to 8 i lost my number 9 long ago but the need has not yet come to replace it.

Cheers