old forgotten aid lines

[coryhal]

steve, could u post a route description of the route u were talking about at eagle rock. i saw a pin up there ( left of the great roof ??) but was unsure where the route went, and are there more forgotten gems out there.

[*Chris*]

I'd also like to hear about any worthwhile aid lines since I'd like to get more efficient in the next few months. Especially any that go on clean gear.

[Fred]

I'm not an aid climber but I betcha waterwalk could be aided.

[coryhal]

climbed: mon premier french kiss, the great roof, and human erazer in the last week or so. All have gone on clean aid but hooks were needed for mon premier french kiss and human erazer. Waterwalk, snakepeel, salt and pepper, and smoking crack, are all great well protected climbes learn aid.

[Burley]

I put up a line with Heni in July. I didn't end up going where I wanted to finish because I would have had to add a bolt half way up and didn't want to add a bolt. I will try it again over the winter. I can't do it clean aid... yet, but I'll try to avoid the bolt addition. It was scary and went in the A3 area - hardest aid line I've done. There was a corner that went from a bomber pin (fixed now - this was my life saver), to ok shallow #2 (I put in two of them), to a 5.6 free move and a half with 40 lbs on your back wearing kicks, to a thin and shallow pin that was better than I thought according to Heni, to a bomber hook, to a hook (for reach), to a nut behind a blocky flake scary thing, then onto better gear. A scare fest on a crap route for 4 hours+ or so... I loved it.

The finish I want is a project. So if you pass my pin please don't add any bolts... I'll let ya know how I make out. Given the rope drag I think I'll need to go roped solo to do in one drag-free pitch.

Why should you not add a bolt to this line? Yes, adding bolts on this line would make it safer and easier. That isn't my interest - not that I deeply care that there are holes in the rock or that I want to get hurt... its just that I'm interested in process required to climb the line without them or the style as some might call it. Hammerless is one thing boltless is another.

[Adam]

The finish I want is a project. So if you pass my pin please don't add any bolts... I'll let ya know how I make out. Given the rope drag I think I'll need to go roped solo to do in one drag-free pitch.

might want to tell them where your route is