New Route - John Bowlts

[Fred]

Awesome day out climbing today. Another new route on Upper Tier. Cara did a wicked job seconding it clean and removing all the gear.

JOHN BOWLTS 5.10 PG 60'/N/T
FA: F.Berube 2009.11.07
FFA: F.Berube, C.Berube 2009.11.11

Found at the left end of Upper Tier near the large left facing corner with double roof for Aventure Pedestre. Climb the arete between Aventure Pedestre and Be Still My Bleeding Heart up to the right part of the roof. Pull the roof and continue straight up the face to tree on top.
Note: This is an independent line that does not share any feature with its neighbours. Bomber but limited gear placements. Fun sequency climbing through the roof.

[martha]

Really great route.

It is in the 5.10+ range for sure. This is a really nice route on quality rock, it has definitely made my top 10 list. . the moves through the crux are fun to figure out and involve a lot of different climbing techniques!

Make an hour of it and do Adventure Pedestre and Be Still My Bleeding Heart while up there. Two of my other favs!

[john]

That's not a new route. I climbed a variation of that years ago, from the left variation you can place all the gear with holds slightly left. I bolted it, but felt went back and climbed it on gear. I removed them and filled the holes . Nice route though. cheers,jb

[cory]

I climbed a variation of that years ago, from the left variation you can place all the gear with holds slightly left.

Variation of what route(s) AP, JB or, BSMBH? In what way did it vary?

That's not a new route

Isn't this still a new route, if you did a variation?
Why wasn't your variation documented?
I'm not questioning your credibility John, but most of this route had old-growth lichen on it and some newer growth branches when Fred and I rapped it a month ago. I think you may be referring to another line.
Cheers

[STeveA]

I think I bolted that route back in the 80s but then the bolts got rusty so I removed them.

[Fred]

John and I had a good laugh over this one the other night. He thought this route was a spoof given it was named and sent during our arguing days.

So I just wanted to clarify, this is a REAL independent natural line and it's pretty sweet. Hope to see someone else get on it this season.

check it out