Smoking Crack

[*Chris*]

Left a nut on Smoking Crack today as it was getting late. My 2nd couldn't get it to move. Amateur. I'll save his dignity by not mentioning his name... let's just call him a certain anonymous Norwegian bald dude. That could be anyone!

If retrieved either leave it for me at the box or take it. You decide.

if you take it... I may judge your character... just sayin'

[*Chris*]

p.s. I'll bet anyone a two-bolt rap anchor that the spruce atop Salt n' Pepper is rotten halfway through. If you want to win, just saw into it half way and bring me back a cross section to claim your prize.

[chossmonkey]

Couldn't your second just repay you with lutefisk?

[Greg]

p.s. I'll bet anyone a two-bolt rap anchor that the spruce atop Salt n' Pepper is rotten halfway through. If you want to win, just saw into it half way and bring me back a cross section to claim your prize.

Chris......please install a rap station on Salt and Pepper.

[martha]

p.s. I'll bet anyone a two-bolt rap anchor that the spruce atop Salt n' Pepper is rotten halfway through. If you want to win, just saw into it half way and bring me back a cross section to claim your prize.

This seems to be a trick question... hmmmm....

[anderfo]

chris how many times did you fall on that nut? (i didn't notice you falling, but you sank the nut pretty deep into that crack, so i couldn't move it..)
hehe i'm sorry i don't have any 'lutefisk' since it's kryptonite for me - but i invite you for a beer.

[*Chris*]

hehe i'm sorry i don't have any 'lutefisk' since it's kryptonite for me

... so does it make you 'call to the elk'?

[anderfo]

hehe i'm sorry i don't have any 'lutefisk' since it's kryptonite for me

... so does it make you 'call to the elk'?

hehe no it's more like 'sleeping with the fishes'...

[Dom]

Since the name of this thread is Smoking crack , I figured I'd ask if anyone else finds the 5.9 variation of this route harder than 5.9? I find it's a 10b move at least.... Maybe I did it wrong?

[*Chris*]

I assume you are referring to going out onto the face at the bolt down low on the line? I have a hard time of thinking of this as the variation since it's always how I've climbed it. Perhaps you have a case if truely onsighting. I always have a hard time feeling around for the good jug and I know it's there. Without that knowledge, I can imagine someone making it a bit harder for themselves. Nevertheless... I've always thought of the line as a solid and well protected 5.8.

[Matt Peck]

I've always found it odd that people use the outside variation for this route more than the crack. Especially in light of fist sized chunks coming off of it. I dunno. "10b" face or 5.8 fist crack. It all comes down to what you're comfortable with, but that crack will win every time in my books.

[Stacey]

I've always found it odd that people use the outside variation for this route more than the crack. Especially in light of fist sized chunks coming off of it. I dunno. "10b" face or 5.8 fist crack. It all comes down to what you're comfortable with, but that crack will win every time in my books.

say YES to crack, I always say

[Dom]

I assume you are referring to going out onto the face at the bolt down low on the line? I have a hard time of thinking of this as the variation since it's always how I've climbed it. Perhaps you have a case if truely onsighting. I always have a hard time feeling around for the good jug and I know it's there. Without that knowledge, I can imagine someone making it a bit harder for themselves. Nevertheless... I've always thought of the line as a solid and well protected 5.8.

Yeah it was on the onsight and I had just OS'ed A warm and sultry evening and I thought man this variation move on Smoking crack is much harder than any move on AWASE. Luc. G went after me and flashed it using more of the ''arete'' left of the bolt and he thought it was hard too for 5.9... ohh well hehe it's a fun route

I've always found it odd that people use the outside variation for this route more than the crack.

What size cams does the original version take? It seemed awfully big... no. 4 Camalot? Maybe it's no.2 and 3 and I just got distracted by the shiny bolt...heheh

say YES to crack, I always say

I guess peer pressure might force me into using crack....i mean the crack hehe

[anderfo]

Whatever variation you choose, the crux is to clean Chris' nuts.

[Greg]

Since the name of this thread is Smoking crack , I figured I'd ask if anyone else finds the 5.9 variation of this route harder than 5.9? I find it's a 10b move at least.... Maybe I did it wrong?

Seemed solid on the grade to me but I agree with Matt, the original line behind the flake is way more fun and it has bomber fist jams. I got a #3 in there somewhere. You'll like it Dom.

[Stef]

A key hold broke off last spring (?) on the bolted variation. I haven't been on it since, it seems likely that it would have gotten harder. Has anyone done it since that can comment?

[Fred]

I have done the bolt variation since the hold broke and it didn't feel any harder. I think it's still 5.9 but can certainly feel harder if you tackle it the wrong way. It's a bit tricky.

[martha]

I definitely do not think that it is any harder. not at all. The hold is still good.