Joint Venture

[Shawn B]

Needs bolt anchor. Tree still has a few sticks of green on it but the whole root system moves. I backed it up as best I could with what I had with me but its not the best. Route bolts also need replacing as they are very rusty. Could use a little scrubbing too. Toss up between this and Slippery for best sport route in Welsford.

To those who've been replacing old rusty bolts lately, how do they look inside after they've been chopped? Rusted through or mainly just a bit of the surface?

[Adam]

To those who've been replacing old rusty bolts lately, how do they look inside after they've been chopped? Rusted through or mainly just a bit of the surface?

the bolt on sticky fingers was rusted nearly to the core. when i went to chop it the nut was rust-welded to the bolt, and thus the bolt just started spinning when i tried to tighten/loosen the nut. i ended up bashing it off and it broke off inside the lip of the hole. considering the hanger and nut were still on the bolt, there was not a lot of torque being applied by my hammer bashes (as opposed to if the hanger/nut did come off and only the bolt was getting beat back and forth), and this tells me the rusted state of the bolt had really really weakened it.

in light of this i would suggest any galvanized steel bolts from the same era should be replaced asap.

[*Chris*]

Very good to know. Thanks for the report Adam. Similar storey on Telefunkin?

[Dom]

Very good to know. Thanks for the report Adam. Similar storey on Telefunkin?

Hey, the bolts on Telefunken were in very bad shape as well. To break them I would overtighten them and they would easily break and the 3rd bolt wooooooo ONLY a quarter of a turn and it broke!!!! It surprised me so much that i went flying! So at the base of Telefunken there is a bolt/hanger somewhere hehe.

The 4th bolt (crux bolt) was in the best shape and I actually broke my ratchet on it.The core was not too rusty... Maybe this has something to do with the fact that it has been more ''active'' (many falls/take on it)... I don't know maybe an engineer could explain this...
Anyways I have it somewhere in my pack and will post a pic of it on this thread.

when i went to chop it the nut was rust-welded to the bolt, and thus the bolt just started spinning when i tried to tighten/loosen the nut.

This did not happen to any of the 5 bolts I chopped. Even then,I also recommend rebolting a lot of routes in Welsford. I do have the time and commitment but unfortunately I don't have the budget to do it...Maybe we should ask MEC to donate us some bolts... or the UNB rock & Ice could provide some like they did with the brushes (which are awesome btw)

p.s. I will be adding an anchor on Telefunken. The drill ran out of juice on Saturday after I replaced the 5 bolts.

[*Chris*]

Thanks for the update. I'd be interested to see that stud indeed. Good work.

As for UNB R&I contributing bolts... that is highly unlikley. Brushes don't come with the same level of contraversy. I believe bolting is best left to individuals. I am willing to contribute several anchors between now and next spring as I get the time.

[Adam]

Thanks for the update. I'd be interested to see that stud indeed. Good work.

As for UNB R&I contributing bolts... that is highly unlikley. Brushes don't come with the same level of contraversy. I believe bolting is best left to individuals. I am willing to contribute several anchors between now and next spring as I get the time.

yah we've been over this before and it was decided that liability to the club should be avoided. that being said i don't see why we coulnd't ask MEC...

tho, Dom if you're law school maybe you could do the pro bono work to ensure the club would have no liability

[Dom]

yah we've been over this before and it was decided that liability to the club should be avoided. that being said i don't see why we coulnd't ask MEC...

tho, Dom if you're law school maybe you could do the pro bono work to ensure the club would have no liability

I would love to help. I could do research on cases and precedents of rock climbing cases and other ''extreme'' outdoor activities... Remind me in January though because right now I'm in over my head with projects and upcoming exams... Gotta love the end of semesters!

[anderfo]

What if UNB Rock & Ice suddenly lost a bit of money, but then a few days later they suddenly found a box full of bolts at the sign-in box? Then the liability would belong to...nobody?
(just like now?)

[martha]

Fred and I wrote a pretty extensive proposal to MEC to get funding to help with the erosion remediation project below the sign in box in 2003(?). They have information on their website etc and do have money for this sort of thing. If I remember correctly, proposals have to be in by the end of January for funding given in the spring.

I don't have time to write anything at the moment, but would be happy to read something over before sending.