Cochrane Lane Cleaning

[sand]

won't be around this wknd ... sorry

[Leehammer]

I'm in aswell. Where do we pick up the brushes?

I think David and I were planning on scrubbing Lichen Cream Cheese/ Dikes on Bikes, and maybe Light Fandango.

Also, I noticed that the forecast high for Saturday is 3, whereas for Sunday it's 11.

[*Chris*]

Brushes are at the gym. Either Adam or I will bring a pile and leave them at the sign-in box.

Based on that forecast I'd say Saturday will be my cleaning day and Sunday will be a day for sending!

[Adam]

Brushes are at the gym. Either Adam or I will bring a pile and leave them at the sign-in box.

Based on that forecast I'd say Saturday will be my cleaning day and Sunday will be a day for sending!

what he said.

[Dom]

I think Luc G. and I will be camping up there this Saturday if anybody wants to join us. It's just supposed to be -2 during the night heheh

[Dom]

Bringing a wrench would also come in handy on cleaning day for tightening the loose nuts on the bolts of the route you are cleaning. That beeing said, if you've never frigged around with bolts before WATCH OUT. You just want to tight enough so that the hanger stops moving. You don't want to tamper with the expansion bolt that has already been engaged. (danger of overtightening).

I think the no. 14 combination wrench works for 3/8inch bolts... if not adjustable wrench will work fo sure

[cory]

I am unavailable on Saturday. I'll do my share some other time.

[chossmonkey]

Bringing a wrench would also come in handy on cleaning day for tightening the loose nuts on the bolts of the route you are cleaning. That beeing said, if you've never frigged around with bolts before WATCH OUT. You just want to tight enough so that the hanger stops moving. You don't want to tamper with the expansion bolt that has already been engaged. (danger of overtightening).

I think the no. 14 combination wrench works for 3/8inch bolts... if not adjustable wrench will work fo sure

9/16" for 3/8" stud bolts, 1/2" for 3/8" Power Bolt (a.k.a. Rawl 5-Piece), 17mm for Fixe studs.

Avoid adjustables if possible as they can round off the nut if not used properly.

[Greg]

Bringing a wrench would also come in handy on cleaning day for tightening the loose nuts on the bolts of the route you are cleaning. That beeing said, if you've never frigged around with bolts before WATCH OUT. You just want to tight enough so that the hanger stops moving. You don't want to tamper with the expansion bolt that has already been engaged. (danger of overtightening).

I think the no. 14 combination wrench works for 3/8inch bolts... if not adjustable wrench will work fo sure

9/16" for 3/8" stud bolts, 1/2" for 3/8" Power Bolt (a.k.a. Rawl 5-Piece), 17mm for Fixe studs.

Avoid adjustables if possible as they can round off the nut if not used properly.

The little wrenches that come with BD ice tools will fit as well. They are light, small and can be easily clipped to your harness.

[Adam]

Avoid adjustables if possible as they can round off the nut if not used properly.

Avoid anything mechanical if you can't properly use adjustable wrenches.

[chossmonkey]

The little wrenches that come with BD ice tools will fit as well. They are light, small and can be easily clipped to your harness.

That is a good idea. Overtightening really shouldn't be an issue either.

[chossmonkey]

Avoid adjustables if possible as they can round off the nut if not used properly.

Avoid anything mechanical if you can't properly use adjustable wrenches.

Most people probably don't know how to properly use an adjustable wrench. There is more to it than just making it the right size. On top of that, a poorly made wrench will get sloppy in a hurry, so it doesn't matter how good you think you are with one. Personally, I don't take expensive wrenches out to the cliff. Ad swinging around on a rope and it will just make things worse. Repeated tightening will result in your nuts getting rounded over.

[Adam]

Good effort today guys! About a half dozen volunteers spent a beautiful November day toiling to make our cragg better for the masses. There are cleaning brushes left in the sign in box so if anyone feels the urge to do their part please feel free to grab a brush on your way in.

Someone go give strata factor a burn and tell me it isn't cleaner. go on. ...and boy the start of Icon looks wicked... i'm gonna go back and clean that up as well as it will link in with the top of strata factor.

[martha]

Sorry I couldn't make it out. Mother bear was left home in the den to look after her young.

I will clean Chocolate Eclair in the spring when I come out of hibernation.

Cheers.

Cara

[Stacey]

Sorry I couldn't make it out. Mother bear was left home in the den to look after her young.

I will clean Chocolate Eclair in the spring when I come out of hibernation.

Cheers.

Cara

I hear ya Cara - - the girls were here too - - so I couldn't make it out either ...
on a good note - Megan officially has her babysitters course...hmm -- can someone say 'built-in' sitter time

I'll be a good momma and not take advantage TOO often

Stace

[martha]

I don't mind a bit. They grow too fast for me to miss a second of it just for climbing. I can climb when I'm 50.

It is nice to get out once in a while though, and thus, weather permitting, I'll be going on a 'date' with my hubby tomorrow.

[david]

Couldn't make it yesterday, but we cleaned Lichen cream cheese today. I was surprised by how gorgeous this climb is past the ackward first couple of moves. I couldn't get rid of the bush near the top... but might go back with a saw on Wednesday and finish the job. We ran into some technical difficulties on Light Fandango so we couldn't finish the cleaning.

[*Chris*]

Cleaned a link-up that connects the left-most fist crack overhang with Reindeerland. Rather than going through the roof off the ground climb around to the left. Step over the cave at a horizontal just above the chains for Access denied. Follow cracks to easy climbing above. A good variation of a variation.

I cleaned the Leviathan extension while I was there. A good day everyone.

[Fred]

Cleaned a link-up that connects the left-most fist crack overhang with Reindeerland. Rather than going through the roof off the ground climb around to the left. Step over the cave at a horizontal just above the chains for Access denied. Follow cracks to easy climbing above. A good variation of a variation.

I cleaned the Leviathan extension while I was there. A good day everyone.

Thx Chris. This is definitely a fun link-up. Moderate climbing on steep overhanging with good gear.

[Leehammer]

We ran into some technical difficulties on Light Fandango so we couldn't finish the cleaning.

The "technical difficulties" were that I made the rookie mistake of not checking the end of my rope for knots when I was pulling it through on the second pitch. I was able to get down safely, but it was dark at that point, and we decided to leave the rope.
So, obviously, don't climb on that rope, it's not safe. We will hopefully get it down on Wednesday.

[*Chris*]

... stuck ropes at nightfall. Classic! Just glad to hear that you put in knots in the first place. In terms of rookie mistakes, I think forgetting to put them in is worse than failing to take them out.

[Adam]

we decided to leave the rope

why not just cut the rope? haha sry Marc/Seb couldn't resist.

[STeveA]

I think forgetting to put them in is worse than failing to take them out.

Tell that to Toni Kurtz!

[*Chris*]

I think forgetting to put them in is worse than failing to take them out.

Tell that to Toni Kurtz!

Ok... fair point... but statistically speaking the odd outlier does not invalidate the average. Tie knots in the ends of your rope kids.

Besides... his case was a knot in the middle of the rope. Big difference.

[Fred]

I had to Wiki this one. Intense story.

[coryhal]

cleaned sweepstakes, far left of joe's, looked like it hadent been climbed in years. its a really cool climb and defenitally not "R" rated, so get on it!

[STeveA]

I think forgetting to put them in is worse than failing to take them out.

Tell that to Toni Kurtz!

Ok... fair point... but statistically speaking the odd outlier does not invalidate the average. Tie knots in the ends of your rope kids.

Besides... his case was a knot in the middle of the rope. Big difference.

How about Joe Simpson! I could keep on going with examples. You cannot make blanket statements about what people should do. Everything is situation dependent, and people should have the knowledge and skill to use the appropriate techniques for the particular situation. I have seen and been involved in many epics because of knots in ropes, but I have no personal experience of people rappelling off the end.

[Adam]

How about Joe Simpson! I could keep on going with examples. You cannot make blanket statements about what people should do. Everything is situation dependent, and people should have the knowledge and skill to use the appropriate techniques for the particular situation. I have seen and been involved in many epics because of knots in ropes, but I have no personal experience of people rappelling off the end.

What does Joe Simpson have to do with knots in the rope when rappelling?

I have no personal experience of rapping/lowering off the end of the rope either but we know people that have in our small NB community. Knots in the end of your rope WILL save your life. jeebus Steve are you advocating not putting knots in your rope when you rap!!?

[martha]

Fred has rapped off the end of his rope twice...both were 'duh' circumstances' thankfully close to the ground!

Needless to say, we are all about the knots.

[*Chris*]

I'm absolutely comfortable with making that particular blanket statement to a beginner. I've been stopped by the ends in my rope. You can learn the combinations and permutations by the time your climbing the Eiger... but in the beginning... knots go in every time.