Cape Clear

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Cape Clear

Postby Fred » Wed Apr 06, 2005 10:54 am

when I was in France, Zig and I started talking about this so called Cape Clear. I've heard mixed opinions about this undeveloped area so I'd like to start a thread here to get all the beta possible.

here are things I'd like to know:

approach
camping
trails
rock quality (sport? trad?)

etc etc

People have said it's choss but is that because it requires alot of work, because there aren't bomber splitter cracks like Warm and Sultry Evening? just curious. :)

any help would be greatly appreciated.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Postby The Mitt » Wed Apr 06, 2005 7:33 pm

Not much in the way of long trad climbs. You really need a 4X4 vehicle to get there, the roads are getting worse every year. You cannot walk the whole length of the cliff due to many tiers and scree, best way to the bottom are rappels. Its very confusing picking a line and getting to them because its so big that its easy to rap the wrong line or just get totaly lost. The exposure is insane, many climbers I consider to be ballsey have gotten a little spooked on rappel (I flowers my pants). There are alot of features on all walls with some huge roofs on one wall.

Apart from all that there are hundreds of awesome lines there waiting to be done.

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Postby saF » Wed Apr 06, 2005 8:34 pm

Hey Mitt, do you still have that website with pictures of Cape Clear?

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Postby The Mitt » Wed Apr 06, 2005 9:11 pm

yup I have not updated it with routes but I do plan on doing that, in the near future. Remember the snow is still real deep there for the next couple weeks, then the flies from HELL. Take a look at the picture of Scott G. When we came back from our hike we were not hungry :)
http://www.cape-clear.climbing.themostw ... /scott.jpg
http://www.cape-clear.climbing.themostwebhost.com
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Postby The Mitt » Wed Apr 06, 2005 9:12 pm

If anyone has pictures of the other climbs and or descriptions please let me know.

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Postby dcentral » Wed Apr 06, 2005 9:15 pm

I've never seen pictures of Cape Clear before.

Hard to believe it's NS.
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Postby Guest » Wed Apr 06, 2005 9:15 pm

Fred, I think that Sean would probably close the gym and move to Cape Breton and live there in a cabin at the base of Cape Clear if I would agree to that proposal!

my 2 cents. kate :)
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Postby The Mitt » Wed Apr 06, 2005 9:35 pm

Its hard to believe but the wall on the right (wave) is just as tall as the headwall.

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Postby c.eager » Wed Apr 06, 2005 10:08 pm

Fred
I'd say your best bet would be to go check it out for yourself. I've been there and climbed there, but barely scratched the surface of the place. I'd compare it more to alpine rock than to say multipitch. It is big and there is the potential for a lot of rockfall if you get on the wrong line. Treat it as self supported wilderness climbing. I'm sure there are sections of the massif that are better than others. Even if you don't end up climbing it's a really awesome spot. I'd wait until early fall to go, Spring would be too wet plus the chance of a freak snowstorm trapping your car, Summer = Bugs from what I've heard, late fall is too sketch because of storms. The winds up there are pretty nuts as well, but guaranteed there is more potential for routes at Cape Clear than the rest of the Maritimes combined. You may want to ask John Bowles about it for beta, I think he's been up there. I'd like to get back up there again some time, as I haven't toured the whole place yet.
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Postby Fred » Thu Apr 07, 2005 7:44 am

I guess a lot of the 'trad' climbers have sorta given me mixed reviews about the place which left me to wonder if it was more because there are no obvious trad lines. As you know, I'm more of a sport climber so I'm wondering (more sepcifically) it there are large blank walls waiting for sport (or mixed) routes up this thing.

4x4 eh?! will a VW Golf do? hmmm.... so what's the approach if you don't have 4x4? how long is the dirt road? And if you can drive as far as you want how far is it from you car to the top of the cliff where you rap in?

cheers all
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Postby Fred » Thu Apr 07, 2005 7:46 am

to put things a little more in perspective for me... how good is it compared to first face? 8)
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Postby c.eager » Thu Apr 07, 2005 9:44 am

First time I went up there we drove a vw bus in, but you'd be better off in a 4x4. The rock is completely different to first face, and definately not as solid.
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Postby Fred » Thu Apr 07, 2005 9:48 am

so if I found First Face to be a choss pile then I"m sure to love Cape Clear is what you are telling me? How does it compare to Welsford granite? similar to any of the walls?
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Postby The Mitt » Thu Apr 07, 2005 10:35 am

I found the wave wall pretty solid for the most part. The top was really chossy, but with allot of work easily cleaned. the head wall is solid in the center with lots of room for sport climbs, once again the top has some choss.

If you really take your time you can get in without a 4x4 but it would turn a 15 min drive into a 1 hour drive.

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Postby johnb » Thu Apr 07, 2005 10:55 am

I drove a toyota echo to the very top of the cliff no problem on the way in, back out however, after a couple days of rain, the puddles were bumper height, good thing its 4 wheel drive or we would have been screwed, what a car.

You can walk to the bottom as easily as rapping, there are a couple splitter cracks on wave wall the rest (majority) would either be bold trad or mixed climbs with seroious potentail for some crazy, hard, long sport routes but.... From what I saw, would require alot of cleaning. Not so much lichen but alot of exfoliation. I have seen much worse cliffs develop into awesome sport areas once well traveled (white bluff, ontario). That said, it is a decent amount of work getting their with the roads in current state and the area undeveloped (personally thats why I liked about the area). If this cliff was near halifax or fredericton it would be an awesome destination especially with traffic and cleaning.

For anyone going there don't expect a mecca, view it as an adventure and if new routes come out of it great, if not the rest of the area has tremendous exploration potentail, in this light no one would be disappointed visiting.

If anyone wants to go back I would go for sure, and fred, i will gladly drive your car in!
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Postby Fred » Thu Apr 07, 2005 11:57 am

Now that sounds a little more promissing. :)

I have no problems in investing a week just to bolt what could be one of the finest sport climbs around on a virgin cliff. I'm just worried it's a choss pile. I guess I've heard others say it's not worth going to etc. I'm not scared to put some money in sweat into it but I just wonder if it's worth it. I think if a few developers put some time into something it could be worth while. Nothing like having a virgin cliff to play on eh?!

we should take your car though John since we already know it can make it in :wink:
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Postby The Mitt » Thu Apr 07, 2005 12:08 pm

When you go let me know maybe we can meet up and get a little posse going.

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Postby Fred » Fri Apr 08, 2005 3:27 pm

what's this I read about bugs being bad at Cape Clear? how bad? and what time of year etc?
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Postby martha » Fri Apr 08, 2005 3:30 pm

http://www.cape-clear.climbing.themostw ... /scott.jpg

Fred,

look at this picture that the mitt posted earlier in the thread..I think that answers your question...
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Postby The Mitt » Fri Apr 08, 2005 4:25 pm

Its incredible, the flies are so bad that you can't concentrate. The only place I have seen it that bad was Labrador in summer.

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Postby Fred » Fri Apr 08, 2005 10:27 pm

are there any good months aside from winter?
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Postby The Mitt » Fri Apr 08, 2005 10:37 pm

Late summer and fall.

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