Bouldering video from the Dark Side

[Quinn]

Interesting boulder problem in Dartmouth. Funky moves on a boulder that's not granite. Starts low on an obvious rail and traverses the lip before topping out straight up the face/corner.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pYqkzCGWco

[Quinn]

Warm-up problem from the same boulder. SDS on low crimper and side pull. Crux start, not much else.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bZRta_y0ZdQ

[stoneseeker]

I didnt know we had climbing in Dartmouth! Where is this? Is there other bouldering potential in this area?! Please divulge good sir. I live in Dartmouth and go climbing about twice a week or more in the developed areas, and the drive is at least an hour from D-mouth every time. Is there a guide book that mentions this stuff for us darksiders??
If this area is open for more exploration and developing, count me in! I would love more rock close to home.
thanks in advance!

[Quinn]

Unfortunately there is no cause for excitement. It is interesting as a novelty since it's is Suprising to find anything, but it's a 30 min hike on the edge of Dartmouth for only two problems. Only worth it if you happened to be walking the dog there anyway. There is nothing else in the area bigger than a small car. Much further down the road is an area with half a dozen chossy V0s. A desperation crag. I'd stick to GZ for your dartmouth needs. It's a great bike trail, so if you want to go biking, it's on the lake Charles shubie trail halfway down the lake. It's on the high side of the trail and you can't miss it.

[stoneseeker]

ah. well thanks for letting me know... I heard you found my buddy Maasy out in the woods! I was disappointed I wasn't there to watch top six at six go down for him, glad someone was there!
Do you (or anyone else) know how extensively the Shubie Park area in Dartmouth has been searched or explored? If one or two of these boulders exist out there, perhaps more abound?
..thanks for sharing the vids regardless.

[The Teth]

I went looking for that boulder three years ago, but did not go far enough allonge the trail. I can’t remember who reported finding it, but it was posted on these boards. Living on the Dark side myself, I was desperate for anything climbable at the time.

On a similar note, has anyone climbed that little tiny boulder in the lot next to Ground Zero? It looks like there may be a V0 on it. Hard to judge scale from a distance. I mean, sure it is crap, but if it is sunny and you have your climbing shoes on anyway, well... Has anyone wandered across the parking lot to take a look at it?

[seanT]

The geckos thru down on that thing in the spring. some surprisingly good moves and a really good mantle shelf to practise topping out on..talk to Taylor he did most of the FA's

[Ammex]

I seem to remember mention of a climbing area in the Waverly area, anybody know what I'm talking about?

[Quinn]

This is the Waverly area you've heard about. I found this several years ago, climbed there a few times in desperation. Doesn't see much traffic

[Quinn]

Speaking of desperation boulders I've discovered in Dartmouth...

New booty from the dark side... found these walls walking the dog the other day. Don't let the lack of perspective fool you, these are sphincter puckering high, you should probably warm up on billabong before getting on them.

[mick]

Tall enough to warrant a rope? Looks like those cracks would take gear.

[Quinn]

Nah, no need for gear, just balls.

[chameleon]

Quinn, where are these ballsy walls?

[Quinn]

On the northwest side of Melancholy Mountain on the south shore of lake Major. In addition to the trail, there is a logging road which goes directly to melancholy mountain. I took the trail so I don't know where the start of the road is.

Believe me when I say, it is not worth the hike. The landing is swampy, the walls are tall and dirty, and the hike is long and wet (unless you find the road). Would only be climbable in the dead of winter, after scrubbing on gear... if there is even any decent lines. Interesting only as motivation for further hikes in the woods.