Bolts at polly's

[Eager]

sorry their driver

[jeremy]

The issue should have be discussed before the bolts were placed, not 5 years later. Placing bolts where good gear anchors are found is not cool. chopping someone else's bolts is also not cool. I have been there and used the bolts with new people while top roping and didn't have a problem with it.
A more usefull discussion would be about whether bolts should be placed in a preservation area in the future.
jeremy

[mothecat]

I placed the bolts at Polly’s. I used to take groups there and the natural gear wasn’t very good. It involved leaning over the edge to access a little crack, or going back through the bush for about 40’. It’s a nice place to TR and rappel with beginners. Lots of flat ground and no soil erosion at the base.

I knew it was a protected area when I placed the bolts. It falls into the same category as Sorrow’s End or Grover. My opinion is that bolts won’t hurt these places nearly as much as unmanaged trail development, ATVs or shooting deer.

I won’t make a fuss if the bolts are removed, but I think keeping them makes more sense. Haven’t you ever wanted to take your friends, kids, relatives climbing at an easily accessible location?

Mitt, let me know when the chopping will begin. I‘ll tag along. Our dogs will get exercise and we can talk about the bolts at the top of Cape Clear.

J

[The Mitt]

I never said I was going to chop them I just wanted to know about them, and find out what the story is.

As for the bolts that I placed at CC, I'm not overly proud of either and plan to remove them upon cleaning that route whenever I get it done. I placed those bolts with good intentions, over exuberance, and a little stupidity. You would know that we discussed it. However I never placed the bolts with making a quick buck in mind. I can think of several places that setting up the top anchor is difficult, like lycra and spandex but it does not have bolts.

Like I said before I'm not trying to stir things up, just wanted to know the story. I have views on the subject but I don't think it’s a huge deal.


Any....
Mitt

[The Teth]

Eagles Nest is one destination for guided groups, but it does not have that natural beauty that makes climbing outside such an experience. New climbers learn about the ethic from those they look up to, such as their guides. It is hard for a guide to emphasize the importance of respecting the environment and packing out what you pack in when there are old TV sets and beer bottles strewn around. Sorrows End might be an option, but the climbs there are a little difficult for kids and slightly out of shape newbies. The bolts at Polly’s Cove gives us all a place where we can take newbie climbers or kids who want to know what climbing is all about.

The other very important point is that Polly’s is usually bug free (at least at the shore). What is the bug situation like at Eagles Nest?

I agree that over bolting is an issue and these bolts deserved discussion, but I think there is a fairly good argument for leaving these bolts be.

Actually, now that I know about the bolts, I have been trying to talk my wife into top-roping there. She has not been climbing much while working on her masters and has not been on a rope in years. Since she has a fear of heights, I thought this would be a good place to acclimatize her to heights again. Best for her to work on something easy while she deals with the physiological challenge.

Teth

[mothecat]

No really, I think we we should take the dogs walking. Give me a call.

Quick buck. Good one.

J

[nsagar]

Rock Court uses these bolts about once a week through the summer while teaching outdoor rock climbing camps to kids. Just thought you should know. Please let all know if you chop them. So we can weigh that in our choice of places to take these kids for their first experiences.

//Nick

[The Teth]

Donna and I intend to use these bolts next weekend.

Teth

[The Teth]

I heard that someone went out and cut these bolts. That is very disappointing. You are a mean person! Now where are we to take people who have never climbed before to introduce them to the experience? Eagles Nest is just not the same

Donna and I did climb on those bolts. It was a nice day out. Also, that area is protected against development and the building of structures to maintain the distinctness of Peggy’s Cove. (Read the legislation.) It is not actually a Wilderness area. I don’t think a bolt in Polly’s cove interferes with the look of the tourist trap down the road.

I also heard that there was an Epic thread on this topic, of Dry Tooling proportions they say, but I can’t find it. Can someone link it or point me in the righte direction? I could use a good read.

[Zamboni]

Go to Bug City.

[chossmonkey]

I heard that someone went out and cut these bolts. That is very disappointing. You are a mean person! Now where are we to take people who have never climbed before to introduce them to the experience? Eagles Nest is just not the same

Donna and I did climb on those bolts. It was a nice day out. Also, that area is protected against development and the building of structures to maintain the distinctness of Peggy’s Cove. (Read the legislation.) It is not actually a Wilderness area. I don’t think a bolt in Polly’s cove interferes with the look of the tourist trap down the road.

I also heard that there was an Epic thread on this topic, of Dry Tooling proportions they say, but I can’t find it. Can someone link it or point me in the righte direction? I could use a good read.

This one? http://www.climbeasterncanada.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=4457

[pulldown]

Go to Bug City.

You should go to Bug City but it's not a good place to take someone who has never climbed. Yet!
The access is very wet and the trails are not easy to find. I plan on putting in some work in December when the bogs freeze up. Any volunteers who want to help carry in some planks?

Todd

[mick]

Went to Bug City yesterday. The trails are a bit damp, but certainly easy enough to find. About a 10 min hike from the Corn N Bung trailhead as long as you don't take the foolish long way out around Memorial - I won't make that mistake again.

Check Out My Blog still spanked me. Damn you Todd!

[The Teth]

Go to Bug City.

I have never been there, and don’t know where it is, but if it even comes close to living up to it’s name I assume you are joking!

Normally if you are introducing someone to climbing you are doing it on a pleasantly warm day. The sort of day in Nova Scotia where the mosquitos are big enough, and the black flies are dense enough, to carry off small pets if you stray too far from the coast. That is why Pollys Cove was so great. It was bug free when the weather was good.

Once you get them hooked on climbing.... THEN you drag them through swamps and jungle bush, battle the insects and carry your own weight in aluminum and nylon to show them the best climbing spots. But if you try that with someone you are trying to introduce to the sport then you guarantee that they will have a bad experience and that they will think climbing sucks.

[Zamboni]

Stick to the gym, or leave them sucking on the tit!

Climbing = adventure
Babies = tit sucking.

Cb.

[ben smith]

I'm totally psyched those bolts were chopped. There is great gear on top of all the lines, either in a boulder 10 feet back from the edge or just below the lip. If you want grid bolted lines next to solid gear placements head to New Brunswick, I hear they have a "special" cliff for "special" climbers where you don't have to worry about the scary hard parts of climbing like lichen and understanding how to place gear.

Its lucky I'm not a politician, sitting here flip flopping around like the tongue of a mouth breathing retard (tm)

[Scooter]

lol