CFB Gagetown - Lead wall Route setting

[Robie]

Good Day,

I am putting the call out to the crack squad of keen UNB climbers who would like to come to the CFB Gagetown lead wall and set some new routes. I have stripped the wall, cleaned, and separated the holds, and rented a scissor lift from 6-10 pm on Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday of next week (18-20 Aug). Any and all help would be greatly appreciated and if this works out I will look into renting this equipment on a more frequent basis in an effort to revitalize the somewhat stagnate base climbing gym.

Thanks again, and I hope to see some eager climbers on Tuesday

-->Robie

P.S. feel free to bring another cordless drill and bit, mine is crapping out

I also sent an email to climbunb@gmail.com, but forgot to spell check it … how embarrassing

[Fred]

the club email is climb@unb.ca me thinks

[Adam]

That's a great idea Robie. Thanks for taking this on. Those routes have been up for at least 6 years! Will be AWESOME to be able to set some routes.

[*Chris*]

I'll drive in tonight to give you a hand Robie.

[Adam]

I'm planning on going in Thursday.

[Ken P]

I'm hoping tonight and/or Thursday.

[Adam]

I'm planning on going in Thursday.

unfortunately my house inspector can't meet till 7pm. not going to be able to make it

[Ken P]

my van died

[sand]

did new routes ended up getting set?

[*Chris*]

Robie ended up pretty much stripping, washing, and resetting the entire wall by himself. A great effort and will be a nice change this winter.

[Adam]

awesome! can't wait to get down there once outdoor season is over. Thanks Robie!

[Adam]

i heard a rumour that the lead wall has no routes on it? is this true?

if not, perfect....

if it is, can we set up another time to get people in there to set routes? avec le scissor lift?

[Ken P]

No color coordinated routes. Donnie was po'd

Robie are you out there?

[Adam]

Spoke with Robie tonight. There are holds on the lead wall but no taped routes. And apparently it could do with putting on some more holds (foot jibs esp) so I'm gonna head in tomorrow night. Who's in?

[sand]

I see that wall almost every day, but still haven't climb on the lead wall. There are very few (almost none) holds on the bottom 5-6 feet of the lead wall, so it would be great to have some added. Not all routes should be for 5.10 leaders and above and if they were, I'd like to be able to try it anyway!

I have never seen tape on any wall of that gym, do they only make routes with colored holds?

[Adam]

I see that wall almost every day, but still haven't climb on the lead wall. There are very few (almost none) holds on the bottom 5-6 feet of the lead wall, so it would be great to have some added. Not all routes should be for 5.10 leaders and above and if they were, I'd like to be able to try it anyway!

I have never seen tape on any wall of that gym, do they only make routes with colored holds?

There were routes made from holds that were all teh same colour... and these routes were up since before i started climbing (7 years)... over the past two years we started taping routes to make it interesting again.

Robie stripped the wall and put holds back on but they're not colour-coordinated, and there are no taped routes yet so when we go tonight we can start to address this. and no, they will not all be 5.10... some will be harder

[martha]

Hey Sandrine,

When i climb there I just use 'all holds' instead of 'routes' if I want to make it easier. Even on the most overhanging wall you can make a route of 5.8ish this way. Doesn't change the pump factor any...but at least the moves aren't difficult.

[Adam]

at the moment the lead wall is still needing more holds. we put some up last night but it is very slow going when hanging from a rope. hopefully we'll get the scissor lift again in the near future and be able to pickle it with potential.