New Routes

[Fred]

Painted Black 5.9 PG 100'/M(3)/R(2)
FFA: S.Adamson, P.Adamson 2009.09.13
This is the free ascent of previous TR route on L-Shape. Bolted by F. Berube and led by Steve. A joint effort.


DDT 5.9 G 100'/M(6)/B(2)
FA: F.Berube 2007
FFA: F.Berube, C.Goodman, J.Corey 2009.09.19
This route is found on top of L-Shape and Joe's Garage just left of "Some Enchanted Evening". To access, climb "Astroboy Direct" and traverse left from bolt anchor to large tree and belay from here. Alternate access, is to traverse in from base of "Rhythm Stick" safe scrambling ledge to gain the same large tree. From the big tree, move left about 15ft to gain a nice vertical crack on the face and climb it for 30 ft straight up (not to be confused with the open book crack for "Some Enchanted Evening" it's just left of that). When the crack runs out, continue up the arete past bolts to finish on top of the coolest spire in Welsford. Must climb this route just to check out the view up there.
Note:
When the crack runs out you'll encounter a large block near the arete. The route is graded assuming most people will step onto the block. To have this block as an eliminate would be contrived. However, the route has been climbed both ways and eliminating the block bumps the grade up to 5.10. For the descent, step off the spire an bridge the gap to gain the tree with tat and rap rings. Easiest way is to rap down the left side of the spire towards "Rythm Stick" then walk through the woods to rap down the two bolted rap stations for "Pink Stripe on Grey Canvas". You can also rap the "DDT" to "Astroboy" but it's a bit more awkward and has potential for rope getting stuck.



Menage A Trois 5.9 G 300'/Mixed
FFA: F.Berube, C.Goodman, J.Corey 2009.09.19
This project has been years in the making with multiple days of cleaning, bolting, trundling, and sometimes even a bit of whimpering. This route is the link-up of Waterwalk, Astroboy Direct, and DDT. Three of the nicest pitches in Welsford in one nice continuous push!!! You will love the menage!!

[Dom]

These guys cleaned and bolted DDT and Ménage à trois in in 5-10degree celsius temperature with intermittent rain! Well done!!

[Adam]

Got on this yesterday and loved it. Belaying up the second on the last pitch, perched on the edge of the boulder overlooking the valley was a centering experience.

Thanks for the effort guys - great linkup. I'm actually enjoying trad again ha!

[*Chris*]

I lead 'the Manage' yesterday. Great link-up. Only fell once while despertly trying to stick to the slabby arete on the last pitch. After I just said screw it and stepped to the block. Topping out the totem pole is a cool position. Good work Fred.

[Fred]

A big thanks to Cory Goodman, Jon Corey, Shawn Bethune, and Ben Turner as well (and any others I may have missed). This three pitch link-up was a long time in the making with multiple sessions hauling all that bolting and climbing gear up the cliff. Makes you appreciate the effort first ascentionists put in for stuff like El Cap, Patagonia, etc.

I think "Menage A Trois" is an instant classic offering some great exposure, sustained difficulty, and with a cherry on top for that priceless finish.

More times then none, people will use the block on DDT. It's the natural flow of the route and hence the 5.9 grade. I used it

Glad you guys had fun.

[Shawn B]

Nice work Fred. Is great to finally have this done. I've been wanting to get this done ever since Joe and I TR'd it 5 or 6 years ago but just so difficult to access to clean/bolt (and I don't have the desire/time that would have been involved). I know how much effort you must have put in Fred to do this project. Going to get on it this weekend. Can hardly wait to climb it without smearing on lichen.

[Fred]

And another big thanks to Lucas Toron and Kristy McLellan who contributed to the bolt fund. Very much appreciated.

[Adam]

And another big thanks to Lucas Toron and Kristy McLellan who contributed to the bolt fund. Very much appreciated.

NICE

[Stacey]

What a great climb, didn't do the whole menage...choose to do the second pitch of water walk where lines were busy, and we'd just climbed Astroboy Direct last time out...

DDT - awesome work! sustained and a great time!!!

Adam -- appreciation of what's around us is so integral...the view from up there is fabulous!

Stacey

[Fred]

Is the grade of 5.9 accurate for DDT?

[Greg]

Is the grade of 5.9 accurate for DDT?

Stacey and I both thought the grade was right on and I think elimating the block will bump it up to at least 5.10.

This is a really great line. Nice send Fred. The hand crack at the beginning of the route is sweet (the best part IMO) and the rock is of very high quality.

As Adam mentioned getting to the top offers much reward. This route should see plenty of traffic.