New Route Greenlaw - Top Gun

[john]

Top Gun 50'/S(7?)/R(2) 5.12
Bolted line just left of Space Invaders.
FFA John Bowles July 26/09

Bolted by Adam Morgan.

[Stacey]

Great work John!

[Adam]

Top Gun 50'/S(7?)/R(2) 5.12
Bolted line just left of Space Invaders.
FFA John Bowles July 26/09

Bolted by Adam Morgan.

good work John. maybe wait till the route is dry next time so you get to use all the holds.

[Leehammer]

you can be my wingman anytime John

[Fred]

you can be my wingman anytime John

LOL

[Fred]

John:

I'm updating the new routes guide. What's your best guess at the letter grade? Is it harder than Grand Theft Project? Easier than Ra?

[john]

it was running with water when I did it and I had climbed all the other hard routes there first so its hard to say. I top roped it to dry the holds and redpointed it first try with no thought to the grade at the time. If I were to guess it is in the same range and grandtheft project not as sustained but one harder move. The top was really dirty.

I think space invaders is 11b, staying in the corner is contrived when good holds are within a ft or so and the bolts are easliy clipped from them. Grand theft is 12b I think and top gun 12a and blood boil 11d.

I thin the third bolt has to be moved right on top gun to make it fun and I think there would be a harder route left of it to go as well. In the hard 12 range looking at it from the ground.

[Adam]

I think space invaders is 11b, staying in the corner is contrived when good holds are within a ft or so and the bolts are easliy clipped from them.

agreed

I thin the third bolt has to be moved right on top gun to make it fun and I think there would be a harder route left of it to go as well. In the hard 12 range looking at it from the ground.

will take a look at the bolt placement next time i'm down.

other route... you talking the dirty dihedral/layback?

[martha]

and blood boil 11d.

really? seems pretty hard for 11d. at least those few moves through the crux. I would have said 12-....?