New River v Red River

[Scooter]

Planning on a sport trip in Oct (Mid to late) and am wondering what you all think. I was originally set on the New but then heard so many nice things about the Red.

From what I understand they are two different styles of climbing for the most part.
The only other place I have been for sport was Rumney and I thought that place was amazing.

Looking for good quality climbs and rock. I know both places have their own unique character. Looking for your opinions and info.

[*Chris*]

There's some discussion in the NB forum re: the red. I've never been to NRG but the two are relatively adjacent given the distance to get there. Do both, come back, and tell us the right answer.

[granite_grrl]

It depends on what you're looking for.

The Red is beautiful, steep and juggy. The sport climbing in mind blowing, and there are certainly some gems when it comes to trad climbing.

The New has bullet hard sandstond, not hard to find some real crack climbs if you're hopping on things 5.9 and over. Great gear climbing, but too much slabby stuff when it comes to sport climbing for my taste.

Personally, I'd take the Red over the New any day. Mid to late October is perfect IMO for the Red (I've only been to the New in the Spring, but it its generally a touch cooler than the Red). Anther bonus, if it looks like rain the Red has tons of walls that stay dry. I think that the Red is easier to find your way around too. And lets not forget about the pizza .

FWIW - the Red generally has Rocktoberfest over the Canadian Thanksgiving weekend. Not sure when you're going, but you should be aware of this event just in case.

[Adam]

The Red is beautiful, steep and juggy. The sport climbing in mind blowing, and there are certainly some gems when it comes to trad climbing.
...
Personally, I'd take the Red over the New any day.

this

[Fred]

Don't stop at The New, keep going to The Red.

If you go to The New, the best sport climbing is actually at Summersville Lake which technically is not The New.

[chossmonkey]

For sport climbing there is a reason why the Red is far more popular than the New.

The New is cool, but I'd generally rather go to the Red. Depending on how hard you are looking to get on the New does have a lot of harder sport routes. They tend to be more technical than the Red. Routes at the New seem to be hard boulder problems between good stances. The Red is mostly enduro climbing.

They are close together and they can both easily be sampled on the same trip. Summersville should not be missed if you go to the New.

[Scooter]

Thanks for all your replies. I haven't been on rope much in recent times but am super stoked for this trip. When you say they are close, how close do you mean? Coupl-a-hours er wha?

I am 99.99% boulderer but can manage on ze twine. I'm thinking I may have to switch the itinerary to the Red!!

[granite_grrl]

I think they're ~4 hours apart. So kinda close, but not close enough to zoom back and forth between on a single trip.





(Psssst - just go to the red)

[Fred]

it's about 4 hours