Mental Floss 5.6 R ?? when did this change?

[Andrew]

Pierre pointed out to me today that in the new 2007 Welsford guidebook, Mental Floss 5.6 is rated 'R' for lead. I could have sworn it was rated 'PG' and after checking the previous book from 2001 (first cover, not the reprint with the winter nose) that it was in fact rated 'PG' there.

Which is true? I haven't led it in a year or two. I'm just wondering what has changed between printing of the two different books that warrants a R over PG?

Climb on!

[*Chris*]

Have you climbed the line before Andrew? Why not suggest what you think it ought to be rated?

[Andrew]

Chris,

I climbed in back in 2004 on lead and maybe sometime after that. I felt it was definatly a PG, but certainly not an R.

My reason for asking was to find out if maybe the conditions changed on the rock in such a way as to loose placement opportunities.

It's a fun route. I love moving over the 'tooth'.

Climb on.

[martha]

are you sure that it is Mental floss that is rated R and not mental Hygiene?

The gear isn't very good on either of them.

[Andrew]

That's what I thought, at first, Cara. I checked the guides and they show Floss at PG (old book) R (new book) and Hygiene as TR.

Maybe it's just a misprint. We shall see.

Ya, the gear isn't great, but there are placements, you just need to be creative and 'balls-up'. I need to take my own advice this year on leading

Andrew

are you sure that it is Mental floss that is rated R and not mental Hygiene?

The gear isn't very good on either of them.

[Fred]

It's not a misprint.

[Andrew]

Fred,

So what's changed since it was a PG?

Rock on!

It's not a misprint.

[Fred]

The PG was copied from the yellow guidebook by Paul Baker. I had not led the route at the time of printing for the old guidebook. A few years later I happened to lead the route and found few placements at best. In my opinion it's R. Check it out. Mental Hygiene is definitely TR with no pro.

[PaulB]

The PG was copied from the yellow guidebook by Paul Baker.

Sure... blame the guy who left town 13 years ago!

From what I can remember, the start is a bit run out until you can get some gear into the corner, but not too sketchy. 'R' ratings were pretty much reserved for routes that a few people had led (boldy or foolishly depending on your point of view), but which most would top rope. Lots of people lead Mental Floss after it was put up, so 'PG' seemed fair.