Red River Gorge

[Shawn B]

I know some from here have been. Good or great spot? How far a drive? Good camping? Too hot first of Sept? Trad or sport better or both good? Worthwhile trip?

[Shawn B]

PS....I'm climbing pretty shabily right now so I won't be on any 11's if the quality routes are mostly 10's and up. Looking for enjoyable 6's thru 10's trad and sport.

[*Chris*]

Shawn,
My experience was that the drive is worth it... but you'd want to stay a minimum of 7 days. We made a non-stop trip in about 22 hours taking shifts sleeping and we climbed right out of the car. We made an April trip and experienced a few rain days. That's the bad news... the good news is that rain won't stop you and there will still be 5 star climbs dry in a downpour that are accessible in the grades you want. It is a great mix of steep sport climbs and true cracks. I'm not sure about the heat... I do hear that mid-summer is pretty unbearable but Sept. might be past the worst of it. I say you go! As a destination... I'd probably conclude that it has more to offer than the Gunks... but that's up for debate I guess.

[Rosie]

I certainly wouldn't call it a trad destination. The focus seems to be on sport, but there are some nice trad lines. We did one beautiful 5.6 crack that was 300 feet from the road, but it was in the minority. The sport climbing is awesome though, and totally worth going for.

[Rosie]

I guess I should say that the trad lines we did were for the most part totally awesome, but some were hard to find. Right Chris?

Here are two that were great:

[granite_grrl]

It's worth bringing the rack, but only to do a few jems here and there. Rock Wars at Long Wall is the ultra classic for the area and would be worth trying if you feel up to it. Doppler Effect is one that keeps teasing me at Eastern Sky Bridge which is beautiful.

But last few trips I hardly looked at my rack. We spent a couple of rest days doing super chill gear routes, so nothing terribly interesting. The sport climbing is mind blowing, even if you only get on the 5.10s.

But in the end I would say that it's too hot for the first of September. October is pretty prime, thanksgiving time being ideal. I would spend a September vacation at the Gunks or maybe in NH.

[Matt Peck]

I've got a guidebook you can borrow Shawn, I'll be up home this weekend if you'd like it.

[Fred]

I've climbed in Ceuse (the supposed best crag in the world) and I preferred The Red.

October would be best time me thinks.

[Burley]

October for sure SB... spring was wet. I think they climb there in Nov as well?

I think there are lots of sport lines in various grades. We found enough to keep us busy in the 5.7-5.10+ area. I found them to be pumpy pumpy with good holds - overhanging.

Given the choice and what I know, I would hit the Gunks if I had never been to either spot - lower drive time and nice trad routes. I'm not a big fan of a long drive for single pitch trad. If you want nice sport this is the spot - lots in various grades.

Red is wicked though. Home of two of the best single pitch lines I've ever had the pleasure to touch with my hands and feet. I even liked the sport lines

If you are looking to tick off lots trad routes each day you'll be disappointed. My goal was some fun sport and some classic trad lines - I was happy enough when it wasn't raining.

It is no Red Rocks. Trad lines will be here and there with lots of sport lines surrounding them.

Trad lines I liked a lot (short list):
Cheaper than a movie
Crack attack
Rock Wars
Roadside attraction

[Shawn B]

We decided on NH instead considering the length of the drive and it being probably too hot end of Aug in Kentucky. Been to the Gunks before too. Was the first of Oct and was brutal hot there too. Going to Red Rocks end of October. Hopefully be in relatively good shape by then. Wouldn't mind jumping on a 5.7.