Recommendations for climbing Alberta...Lake Louise?

[shakylegs]

Hey Folks,

I've got 11 days at the end of the summer to go climbing in Alberta. Not too long, but I want to get in some sport climbing. Anyone been to Lake Louise? What's the scoop with that place? and other recommendations for a poor student?

Thanks,

Matt

[chossmonkey]

Lake Louise is pretty sweet.

Unfortunately you do have to pay for a parks pass to park there. The established camp grounds are pretty expensive, but you might be able to find some ninja camping.

The rock there is quartzite and really fun to climb. There are a few gear lines but a lot of stuff is bolted. Most of the routes are a bit overhanging.




Grassi Lakes above Canmore are fun and free. The camping is expensive as well, but there may be ninja camping opportunities as well. Pretty much everything at Grassi is bolted. There are some really fun, steep limestone pocket climbs.

The ghost Valley is a bit of drive into, but has free climbing and camping. There are a bunch of mutipitch sport routes but they are mostly kinda slabby.

[Leehammer]

what the heck is "ninja camping"?

[Burley]

what the heck is "ninja camping"?

Sneaky... quick... don't get caught.

[granite_grrl]

Ninja camping can be hard when you don't know the area. We tried to keep an eye out for decent places a few years ago for this, but didn't come up with anything (not saying it's not there). I've seen campfire rings out Cougar Creek in Canmore though.

When we were out there we spent some time with our friend in Calgary out in the Ghost, then we stayed (maybe overstayed) with a friend in Canmore. Then we actually started camping. The camping areas outside Banff (towards Calgary) fill up quick and were $20/night. The first one we tried was by the highway and sucked, but the second place was out the Spray Lakes Rd (a little out of the way, but not bad at all for Grassi Lakes) and was actually really nice. These places fill up on the weekend pretty quick though.

I had most fun at Grassi Lakes and the Back of the Lake (Lake Louise).

Note on the Ghost: You'll probably need a vehicle with 4-wheel drive to get out of there. The camping was pretty sweet, and doing multipitch sport was unique, but otherwise I was underwhelmed by the bolted climbs there.

[shakylegs]

thanks guys, i'm liking the advice. it's sounds like Canmore might be the place.

much appreciated. one more thing, any contacts up there. looking for a partner!

they don't seem to the same sweet forum set-up we have.... or are the Canmore crags the kinda place you just waite around for people to show.

Matt

[the kydd]

Matt,

If you're in the area you should defiantly check out Lake Louise. If you're looking for some "ninja" camping, there is a gravel parking lot along the river, by the railroad restaurant (Sorry, can't remember the proper name, but it's the old railway station, actually, I think its called The Station) which I've slept in before. From the hwy, take the L. Louise exit, then at the second intersection (stop sign) you'll take a right, follow that till you hit the restaurant, the parking lot is on the left before. I wouldn't recommend setting up your tent, but you could for sure throw down your sleeping mat and bag and crash for the night.

You will likely have to have a park pass. You'll want one anyway to park at the fancy Chateau. Expect tourist to take your picture and stop to watch, especially if you're climbing right off the trail. You could also try to sneak your way into the showers, pool, hot tub, and sauna while you're there. They'll even provide the towels, soap, shampoo, and conditioner! Might as well take in the benefits of the 5-star hotel that you'll walk past after your day of climbing.

Canmore is also a great place to climb. Fun, steep, pockets. I would recommend spending most of your time there, and do a couple days at Lake Louise. Both areas can be found in the same guide book. I've spent less time in Canmore, so I don't have any recommendations on places to camp. I've stayed at a campground close to the Hwy/McDonalds. I think it was $15/night.

Hope that helps,

Jeff

[gwa]

Check out Cardiac Arrete on the Grand Sentinel. 400 feet of 5.10 sport climbing on a remote tower. Long approach. Lots of exposure. It's in the guide book. Or just ask a local. I did it one year ago exactly. Bring warm clothing

Lots of great pumpy routes in the 5.11 range at Duckland, Back of the Lake, Lake Louise. They all have "Duck" in their name. Will be sure to meet other climbers at Back of the Lake. I found it harder to find partners in Canmore partly because it's spread out.

Enjoy your time in the mountains!

[gwa]

I forgot to recommend:

Wicked Gravity, 5.11a, at Back of the Lake. On the Wicked Gravity Wall. One of the area's Ultra-Super-Mega Classics. Really excellent climb all around. In other fame it's also the first 80 feet of "the Path", the ridiculously hard and long route that trotter chopped bolts off a couple years ago.

Raptor, on EEOR (east end of rundle) above Canmore. 9 pitches of sport. Only 3 or 4 pitches of 5.10. Then it eases off to 5.7(?) and under. Great views of Haling Peak, Canmore, the Bow Valley, and an easy hike off the back of the mountain.

[Adam]

I forgot to recommend:

Wicked Gravity, 5.11a, at Back of the Lake. On the Wicked Gravity Wall. One of the area's Ultra-Super-Mega Classics. Really excellent climb all around. In other fame it's also the first 80 feet of "the Path", the ridiculously hard and long route that trotter chopped bolts off a couple years ago.

Raptor, on EEOR (east end of rundle) above Canmore. 9 pitches of sport. Only 3 or 4 pitches of 5.10. Then it eases off to 5.7(?) and under. Great views of Haling Peak, Canmore, the Bow Valley, and an easy hike off the back of the mountain.

wow that sounds awesome.

[shakylegs]

Great advice. Thanks amigos! It'd be nice to check out both areas. We'll see what goes down. I'd be up for some ninja camping as well. However, I do hate having to terminate unsuspecting rangers who come upon my ninja base camp!

Where you be Kydd? Are you still westcoast?

M-

[the kydd]

Matt,

I thought this might have been you... yes sir, still westcoast. I'm in Vancouver, and will probably be here for a while. I'm looking forward to a visit home next year. Hopefully in the fall, when the temps are good.

Are you in NS, or in the Yukon? If you're on the coast, give me a shout. I've been in Squamish about twice a week all spring/summer.

I know of a couple of potential partners for the rockies, I'll PM their info to you.

Word!

Jeff