Sleeping beauty 5.10c

[Dom]

Sleeping beauty 5.10c
So what's the deal?? The top has absolutely no holds....
Beta anyone? high step on nothing, while sidepulling nothing??
maybe because I'm 5'9 I can't reach?? hmm the bottom crux felt 5.10c... the top?? oufff This is where climbing overhanging limestone does no good to ya!

As for Drytoolers will be prosecuted 5.10c do you move left at the crux to grab the holds on Up rope 5.10a or you go straight up on nothing AGAIN? ouff these 5.10c sport routes at Cochrane Lane will make you think...hehe

[Jon Corey]

dry toolers. high step right foot in a tiny little dip in the rock and straight up

[martha]

I'm 5'4 and I can reach sleeping beauty so I'm guessing that reach it not your issue. . smear up. crimp hard, palm hard and voila. (and straight up too... off to the far right or left is off route. )
Slabs are tricky and we don't have much chance to practice them around here.

Overhangy limestone routes might be 10c because of a pump factor but only have a technical difficulty of 5.9.... these routes you are speaking of are technical face climbing!

Enjoy it!

[motanb]

sleeping beauty.... smear, friction or like me use your 6'4 limbs;-)

[Fred]

go go gadget arms

Drytoolers: The stuff on the left near the crack is definitely out. Straight up. A hard technical move it is.

Sleeping Beauty: I smear up as high as possible and desperately reach for the crimps above. Height is an advantage on that one.

[PeterA]

sleeping beauty always seemed like something straight out of Jtree to me. Just stand up and believe

-PJ

[Shawn B]

sleeping beauty always seemed like something straight out of Jtree to me. Just stand up and believe

-PJ

Just without the friction...and it'd only be 5.8....and the last bolt would be 20 feet below. Been 5+ years since I've been on it but I think I remember a slopey blob to palm/mantle to help us reaching impaired climbers. Betcha never did that on limestone...huh?? And yes trust thy feet too.

[PeterA]

sleeping beauty always seemed like something straight out of Jtree to me. Just stand up and believe

-PJ

Just without the friction...and it'd only be 5.8....and the last bolt would be 20 feet below. Been 5+ years since I've been on it but I think I remember a slopey blob to palm/mantle to help us reaching impaired climbers. Betcha never did that on limestone...huh?? And yes trust thy feet too.

they don't bolt 5.8's

-PJ

[Burley]

Dom,
Let me know if you want to get out next week. I'm off Wed, Thu, Fri.

[Murph]

I attempted to lead this climb on Saturday and if you are looking for beta for the crux 5' below the anchor it goes as follows: reach for a left hand "nylon jug" and pull through to the anchor... works with out fail every time

[martha]

none of us got the crux yesterday, not me or Fred or Murph. with the sun blazing on that slab, what little friction there would have been turned into a hot mess. LOL

[Dom]

Well I'm glad to see that this route is not as moderate as the grade would suggest...My ego isn't that crushed hehe jk. I definitely will get back on it soon... thanks for the beta everyone!

And Murph as for the nylon Jug- It's what I used on my onsight attempt...French free is what they call it in the U.S...

Dom,
Let me know if you want to get out next week. I'm off Wed, Thu, Fri.

Hey Burley sorry for the late reply I was in Kamouraska climbing overhanging quartzite routes hehe
I can't make it on those dates next week...

[*Chris*]

So I found people talking about this line in the '09 tick list thread and I tried an onsight on this route in the 32 degree heat last sunday... big mistake. Cool line though. The bottom is sequence... once you have the beta you've got it made. The slab has more to do with Allah willing you through it. Was glad to have a bolt at my chest othewise you'd cheesegrater for a while before your cam caught you. I'll have to go back in on a cooler day to bag this one.

... and both tricky bits felt more challenging than the crux of Drytoolers.

[Andrew]

I just had to add that I love Sleeping Beauty. Crimpy sequence below, big holds with slight roof and then finish on impossible 5' slab with invisible holds. I want to get on it gain... maybe this afternoon pending heat/friction and partner.

ROcK on!