Climbing in New Brunswick - Your 25 Year Outlook

[gwa]

I grew up in New Brunswick but didn’t find climbing until I’d moved to Halifax after Highschool. Moving back to Southern New Brunswick recently I've come to realize this province is a gem. Loads of high quality routes, a long history of climbing, and a dedicated local scene. Of course climbing in NB isn’t without its own unique concerns such as access issues on CFB land and peregrines.

I’m curious to hear how you envision New Brunswick’s Rock and Ice Climbing Scene in 25 years. I’m not so interested in how you think climbing in general will change or how the international community will change (there will be lots I’m sure). Focus on your vision of New Brunswick’s climbing scene. Step back from day to day noise and think about what you want NB climbing to be like 25 years from now.

I know there are differing attitudes, beliefs, opinions, and experiences among NB climbers. But luckily we have at least one thing in common …we like climbing No matter our personal attitudes about style or technique, we can probably all agree that we want climbing to continue in New Brunswick.

I’ll start it off by saying that when I’m 49, I want to be able to access, and climb at all the currently developed crags. I’d like to be around stoked, friendly climbers of all ages that stop on the trail to chat, and share their latest route reviews. Over the next 25 years I want to see local youngsters excited about New Brunswick’s rock and ice climbing, respecting the crags, and being proud of NB’s long climbing history.

What’s your dream for NB’s climbing scene?

Hope to see you at the crags,

Graham

[martha]

in 25 years I hope that the scene is more or less the same. numbers about the same, some old some new... and I hope that my kids are climbing and that Fred and I get to enjoy climbing days with them. Maybe they will be active members of the UNB Rock and Ice club etc as they will be of that mid-twenties age.

I hope we have access, have maintained good relationships with the communities in general, and that the crags appear to be the same in terms of use. That means we must be good stewards of the land, love it, and enjoy it, and treat it all with respect.

[Fred]

I dream of a chairlift and nothing but sport climbing.

[PeterA]

I hope that there will be lots of strong, young, motivated climbers and I hope i can still keep up with them

I also think there will be plenty more cliffs discovered and developed over the next 25 years.

-PJ

[*Chris*]

I hope that the tickets to Fred's lift won't be $100/day by then and I hope the thing won't constantly break down. I also hope that there will be a lodge built where the sign in box is now in Welsford. It will have cold beer all summer and hot Irish coffee all winter. I hope by then UNB R&I will have purchased the farm and will allow campfires at night. I hope by then that the town of Welsford still exists... but I doubt it. I hope that climbing everywhere in NB will still be free and I still won't have to wait in line for the classics.

Honk if you like my version of history!

[john]

I predict I will still be climbing all the time....in the gym.

[Nihoa]

+1!

I dream of a chairlift and nothing but sport climbing.

[Joe]

In 25 years I expect Fred's prediction will be about right. We'll have powerful mini-drills that will sink a bolt in 10 seconds flat and cost $50, and damn near everything will be bolted except the fat cracks. But the scene won't be too much different - it's too much of a fringe activity to see any huge increase in development. It hasn't really changed much in the past 25 years. But we'll have 12 months of rock climbing and not a lick of ice due to a warmer climate. And I won't give a damn beause I'll be 70!

[Greg]

Here’s what I would like to see:

An organization that would be in charge of promoting and supporting climbing in this province. Call it the New Brunswick Climbing Association. The mission of such an organization could include access issues and agreements, safety courses, new cliff development, new route development (paying for hardware), youth program, document/archive NB climbing history, etc. Another goal could be to create more awareness about climbing in the general public to dispel the myths and open doors to those people who need to discover this activity.

The continued discovery of new places to climb; boulders, trad cliffs, sport crags, waterfall ice.

The deconsecrated church in Welsford (across the road from the Irving) become a climbing gym/gear shop.

The farm at the end of Cochrane Lane become a hostel for climbers. Keep the animals…….I think the goats have a great sense of humor and horses are cool…….. just lose Kujo the dog.

The CFB Gage border moved back 1 k behind the cliff or a more relaxed attitude concerning access prevail.

That there never are any fees attached to NB climbing areas.

A licensed café in Welsford that will hold more than 3.5 people………there isn’t enough room to swing a cat in the current establishment. We need a place to hang out after a day of climbing. A place to sit back and enjoy a beer with friends.

That we continue to be good stewards of the land; respecting critters, picking up our trash, abiding by wall closures due to nesting Peregrines and depositing our duty in cat holes 8 inches deep (not under rocks) at least 200 feet away from water courses.

That we continue to have people author high quality guidebooks about climbing in NB.

And finally that everyone remember this Alex Lowe quote:

“The best climber is the one having the most fun.”

[martha]

Well, the Yupper Dog cafe used to be pretty sweet when Burpees was still around. It wasn't licensed...but you could buy your beers there and then drink em out camping.

Fred and I looked at purchasing that old church a few years back... It has no running water, no sewage, no insulation, no basement and is in need of some repair..... It would be quite the undertaking and would require some mega $$.

You must also keep the sheep. There are so many climbers out there with ongoing relationships involoving those ewes. I will say no more.

[Adam]

An organization that would be in charge of promoting and supporting climbing in this province. Call it the New Brunswick Climbing Association.

While I understand the motivation behind bringing this up, I think we can take a lesson from PQ and see how much of a PITA their climbing association has been (or so i've heard)...

I'd like to see climbing in NB stay as casually managed as possible for as long as possible. WHen the day comes that we need to organize to retain access, then something like this would be appropriate, but the last thing I want to see is bureaucracy in our community if it isn't absolutely req'd.

[Fred]

I have to agree with Adam on this one. A climbers federation or coalition is the worst thing that could happend to NB.

[Matt Peck]

I also agree. I believe the new motto for new brunswick climbers should be derived from our southern neighbours: "climb free or die". Im not sure how all the aforementioned new development will be possible with climbing being free and all, that money has to come from somewhere. As for being in charge of bolting new routes, this has always been the job for pioneers, and thats the way it should stay. New lines need to be worked for, and that's part of the fun/history of the area.
With you on the guidebooks and good stewardship though.

[cory]

In agreement with all the aforementioned proposed ideas, with the exception of the NB Federation. Adam and Peck put it well.

Climbers are cheap, and there aren't many locals around. Though I'd love such a place, would a licensed climbers bar with attached bunkhouse survive?

[Laurent]

If it doesn't stop raining, this is what climbing in NB will look like.

http://www.gettyimages.com/detail/200568607-003/Stone

[Adam]

If it doesn't stop raining, this is what climbing in NB will look like.

http://www.gettyimages.com/detail/200568607-003/Stone

finally.

when i started rockclimbing i had been a scuba diver for 13 years. have not touched a regulator since. now i finally have seen a way to combine two seemingly polar opposite sports.

thanks Laurent.