new route - E-Gully, Main Face

[Jamie Simpson]

Hi Folks -

Did a new, short aid route in the E-Gully on Sunday... (cleaned and climbed on-sight, ground-up)

Elevator (a.k.a.: I owe Dawn a beer): C2 (or A1) 8m (?); gear anchor; FA Jamie Simpson, June 7 09

It's the right-leaning thin crack just right of Enervator, and directly under the wide crack of Euthanasia... would be a nice direct start to Euthanasia. I look forward to someone freeing this line -- won't be me! It's a little tricky in a couple spots, but a good route for getting confident placing and trusting gear. Was my first aid climb.

Thanks to Dawn for the belay, and to Mick for delivering some extra cams part way up!

Jamie

[chameleon]

Hey Jamie,

Nice work, but I'm pretty sure that line was free climbed by Steve Punshon a few years ago. His route description is below from his website http://www.novascotiatradclimbing.com/Main%20Face.htm

I seem to remember that the moss is quite prolific in that gully so it's not surprising that you assumed it was unclimbed!


Bodyline 5.10a G (S. Punshon, unseconded, 25th August 06)
Starts just right of Enervator and climbs the steep aesthetically pleasing shallow dihedral. Tricky step into dihedral to reach good finger lock (#1 friend). Run it out using the intermittent crack in the dihedral and the left arete to reack a ledge at the base of the wide crack of Euthanasia. A superb and natural direct start to Euthanasia, which is possibly the best fist crack in Nova Scotia. This route supersedes the poor original start up the bolted groove of Enervator and is much more in keeping with the overhanging crack.

[Jamie Simpson]

Ha ha! Okay then -- Thanks for letting me know... so cancel that last post! I did spend a fair bit of time digging dirt and moss out of that crack, thus the assumtion it hadn't been climbed.

best,
Jamie

[Adam]

if someone bags a first ascent they should put the work in to properly clean the route. dirty routes suck.

if you're doing a big wall then fine you can't be expected to scrub everything, but single pitch routes... leave something clean and enjoyable for the next person.

[ben smith]

If someone hasn't climbed at main face or seen the line they should perhaps keep their mouths shut. The line hasn't seen a second ascent because it is scary as the dickens and moss grows fast in NS.

[Scooter]

Much like the moss under Ben's finger nails

[Adam]

If someone hasn't climbed at main face or seen the line they should perhaps keep their mouths shut. The line hasn't seen a second ascent because it is scary as the dickens and moss grows fast in NS.

lol, did i touch a nerve?

whether or not i have seen a route i still hold this opinion. If i put up a route i make it as clean as possible (within reason - in the least cleaning all gear placements and all hand and foot holds), to the point where someone climbing it 3 years later will KNOW that it has been climbed before. granted i have not been to main face but if it was so dirty that a 2nd ascensionist thought it was an FA, i think my words are warranted... 3 years is enough time for some moss/lichen to grow back but it sounds like it wasn't cleaned properly in the first place.

maybe if it were cleaner it would see more ascents?

[Adam]

Much like the moss under Ben's finger nails

ah it was the nerves in his nail beds. i see now

[jipstyle]

if someone bags a first ascent they should put the work in to properly clean the route. dirty routes suck.

if you're doing a big wall then fine you can't be expected to scrub everything, but single pitch routes... leave something clean and enjoyable for the next person.

That's just silly.

If I nab a first ascent, I do it for myself ... I'm certainly not going to do extra cleaning for the next person to come after me.

If I was bolting a line, your argument might have merit ... but even so, I don't think that first ascentionist / route equippers are responsible for keeping a line clean.

How long does it take for moss and lichen to regrow in a crack here in NS? About a day?

[Nate]

Water is always seeping out of this line and moss and slime is always accumulating. I think I remember Steve telling me that he had cleaned it hoping to climb a particular season and then cleaning it again a year or two later when he came back to finish it up. I'd love to work on it if anyone else is down.

Nate

[Rich]

That's dirty again - I gave that crack a scrub just last fall!!

If you're going bacl to E-Gully to aid climb there is an un-climbed seam/crack that hasn't been done - go down to the water and on the right there's a right-arching crack on the overhanging wall - I cleaned it last year (most of it anyway) with the hope of trying t free climb it but haven't found the time to attempt it - it would be a great aid climb / good practice for aid-traversing and could use a little inimate cleaning itself before anybody with the desire to free it gives it a go. really nice line, somebody should climb it....

[Adam]

If I nab a first ascent, I do it for myself ... I'm certainly not going to do extra cleaning for the next person to come after me.

how selfless of you! lol. when i put up a route i do it for the enjoyment of opening a line (for myself) but then knowing that others are going to have the opportunity to climb it as well (for others). if you name the route and tell anyone to go there you're not doing it for yourself, but maybe you don't want people to enjoy a route you've found fun yourself.

maybe this route gets dirty so fast there's no point in cleaning it, granted, but i don't think cleaning a route so that others can enjoy it is 'silly'... on the contrary, that is what FAs do around the world. then again maybe we're all just silly b@stards with too much time on our hands hoping to let others benefit from our toil.

[ben smith]

Did you touch a nerve?
No. You commented about a route in an area that you've never climbed at and suggested that the first ascentionist was either lazy or selfish for not cleaning the route properly.

As a result you sounded like (content moderated) and I wanted to point this out to you as gently as possible.

You still sound (content moderated) and I wash my hands of the matter.

[jipstyle]

i don't think cleaning a route so that others can enjoy it is 'silly'... on the contrary, that is what FAs do around the world.

Neither do I, nor did I say so.

I think that making lame accusations regarding cleaning after a first ascent is childish and silly. We've no idea how long it has been since the first ascent nor how much traffic the line has since received.

You know that old saying about making assumptions? Get off the soap box, please.

[Adam]

Did you touch a nerve?
No. You commented about a route in an area that you've never climbed at and suggested that the first ascentionist was either lazy or selfish for not cleaning the route properly.

As a result you sounded like (content moderated) and I wanted to point this out to you as gently as possible.

You still sound like (content moderated) and I wash my hands of the matter.

damn i feel like choss all of a sudden.

Ben... chill out dude. (content moderated) ... for expressing an opinion based on experience? granted i have not been there but that doesn't change my opinion. i hold the same opinion of FAs regardless of whether i've seen them or not. i think they should be cleaned... if it HAD been cleaned and has since become that dirty again, then ok i concede that the FA put in his/her time. you guys are pretty sensitive lol.

[Scooter]

to share the wise words of international linguistic sensation, and WWF allstar, Bruce Buffer


LLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLEEEEEEEEETTT'S GET READT TO RUUUUUUUUUMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMBBBBBBBLLLLLEEEEE!

[Nette]

This thread is hilarious....SHUT UP AND CLIMB!

[Fred]

Why is it always the same kids that get sent to detention. Read the T.O.U. boys.

[ben smith]

Seriously Fred? I can't call someone a mouth breathing retard? Where's the foul language, mouth? Breathing? Can I use mentally challenged rather than retard? Because part of having certain neuropathogenic conditions is making decisions without basing them on logical inferences.

Kind of like judging the enviromental conditions of a route in an area you've never seen...

Seriously trad reborn, I'm sure you're a nice dude who can even breathe through his nose and name the colours in the rainbow and everything but you made a stupid statement about a route you hadn't seen (basically the same thing that half the new brunswick forum is always castrating choss monkey about).
And thats retarded.

[Matt Peck]

zing.

[chossmonkey]

Seriously trad reborn, I'm sure you're a nice dude who can even breathe through his nose and name the colours in the rainbow and everything but you made a stupid statement about a route you hadn't seen (basically the same thing that half the new brunswick forum is always castrating choss monkey about).
And thats retarded.

Heh...

You're right Ben, they can dish, but they sure can't take it.





I didn't see what all happened here so I can't comment on what was moderated, but we do all have to play reasonably nice. Perhaps it was seen as too much of a personal attack?

[martha]

I love the word retard. ..... LOL... so NOT politically correct... but hey.. who cares right?!?!

[Stevo]

Hey, some life at last in CEC forum, I might start visiting more often!
I just wanted to add that I did do a good job of cleaning this route. In fact I unrolled huge caterpillars of moss and dug out bucketloads of dandelions off this climb. Not just dandelions but I also left a huge mound of those endangered rare plants that Rich was getting excited about, rotting at the bottom. It really was sparkling clean back around 2004 but the greenery has really come back in the last couple of years. This route is a drainage channel but the vegetation is generally re-appearing all over the place. I was quite shocked last year at how overgrown Columbus and the Skapper were becoming. One can blame the last couple of very wet summers but it is also lack of traffic, so grab the brush and get out there!

Steve

[Adam]

you made a stupid statement about a route you hadn't seen (basically the same thing that half the new brunswick forum is always castrating choss monkey about).
And thats retarded.

you're not in international relations, are ya? lol

i guess i'm failing to see how saying i think routes should be cleaned by the FA is 'stupid' or how it is 'retarded'. can you elucidate? how is holding an opinion based on experience of putting up many FAs 'retarded'? perhaps you should start using more descriptive terms so to reduce ambiguity.

i still think new routes should be cleaned. and apparently it WAS, and just got dirty again. end of story.

i do see hints of choss-tizing in my posts, however, and for that i apologize.

[Nate]

You invested yourself in an issue of local interest to which you are not local and for that sir, you are indeed a mentally challenged person incapable of breathing with his nose.

[Adam]

You invested yourself in an issue of local interest to which you are not local and for that sir, you are indeed a mentally challenged person incapable of breathing with his nose.

lol now it makes sense. thanks.

[Fred]

Martha: surely a moderator would not condone or use offensive content. Might I suggest you moderate your own post.

Trad: logic doesn't seem to apply in here with these folks. You must first realize that there is no logic. Bend the room not the spoon.

All: For some reason, offensive content always seem to be the way to pack a punch in a statement. Might I remind you that what is seemingly funny to some can be quite offensive to others. Please be respectful of those around you.

[Adam]

Trad: logic doesn't seem to apply in here with these folks. You must first realize that there is no logic. Bend the room not the spoon.

but i thought there *was* no spoon. damnit.

[martha]

Martha: surely a moderator would not condone or use offensive content. Might I suggest you moderate your own post.

Surely not Fred. surely. I'm not condoning anything. My comment was simply that I love the word retarded. Not necessarily its use in this particular thread.

[ben smith]

CEC Terms of use:
No foul language
• No pornography
• No spam
• No advertising
• No harassment (sexual or otherwise)
• No copyrighted material without the author's permission

I don't see how calling someone a "mouth breathing retard" contravenes any of these conditions. The words are certainly not foul, pornographic (at least I certainly hope not... Stamp?), possibly spam? Nah don't think so.

I wasn't aware that creative personal attacks were prohibited, I certainly don't remember much moderation when the cry-babies were threatening to call the SPCA on me for eating a squirrel.

It seems like at least once a year I stir up a hurricane of feces over some pointless topic. I hope no one takes this internet beefing too seriously, but if you can't take a joke then you can frig right off in my opinion.

Cara: Retard is funny isn't it, its gives me a little half orgasm of joy (I hope thats not too pornographic for you closeted internet stalking freak-shows) every time I compare some act of blatant stupidity to the life of some hapless fool whose progenitor cells just couldn't get mitosis working properly.