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List of Underutilized gems
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List of Underutilized gems
by john » Wed Jun 10, 2009 12:47 pm
- john
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- Joined: Tue Nov 16, 2004 11:08 am
- Location: Fred. NB
Re: List of Underutilized gems
by Burley » Wed Jun 17, 2009 5:33 pm
With the 30 or climbers you might get on a weekend in Welsford most everything is underutilized compared to more popular locations.
Wheeping Wisker and Rockstar 5.9 - don't see nearly as much traffic as they should. Both rival classics of the grade in other areas. Wicked good routes and best 5.9's in Welsford hands down. Very well protected.
Snot (second pitch) 5.8 - short and sweet. Bomber gear.
Wise Crack 5.10 - Short and sweet. Bomber gear. Nice start to Cheekbone.
Lichen Cream Cheese 5.8 to Dynamic Duo 5.9 - Nice Nice Link-up at the grade. Love these two.
Odin C2 - Can't see it going free as is, but I'd like to be surprised
Stratafactor 5.10/5.11 - first pitch is nice and 5.10. Haven't gotten the second pitch and seems like 5.11 to me. Nice.
Last pitch of Comrades in Destiny/Springfield... not sure which one it is... 5.5 or so and it us just left of the lower dawn wall... across the gully up the obvious nice crack system... very very nice and probably the nicest easy pitch in Weslford... much nicer than "It's a way of life". Rock is super excellent!
Rock Opera 5.10 - Cool with some balancy moves.
Wheeping Wisker and Rockstar 5.9 - don't see nearly as much traffic as they should. Both rival classics of the grade in other areas. Wicked good routes and best 5.9's in Welsford hands down. Very well protected.
Snot (second pitch) 5.8 - short and sweet. Bomber gear.
Wise Crack 5.10 - Short and sweet. Bomber gear. Nice start to Cheekbone.
Lichen Cream Cheese 5.8 to Dynamic Duo 5.9 - Nice Nice Link-up at the grade. Love these two.
Odin C2 - Can't see it going free as is, but I'd like to be surprised
Stratafactor 5.10/5.11 - first pitch is nice and 5.10. Haven't gotten the second pitch and seems like 5.11 to me. Nice.
Last pitch of Comrades in Destiny/Springfield... not sure which one it is... 5.5 or so and it us just left of the lower dawn wall... across the gully up the obvious nice crack system... very very nice and probably the nicest easy pitch in Weslford... much nicer than "It's a way of life". Rock is super excellent!
Rock Opera 5.10 - Cool with some balancy moves.
- Burley
- Posts: 270
- Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2006 1:37 pm
- Location: Fredericton
Re: List of Underutilized gems
by Murph » Fri Jun 26, 2009 6:59 pm
Burley wrote:
Last pitch of Comrades in Destiny/Springfield...
I seconded this route last year, beautiful section of granite... can't wait to lead it someday
-"Why do this instead of a 5.13 sport climb?"
-"Cause this is way more bitch!n'"
Matt Segal, The sharp end
-"Cause this is way more bitch!n'"
Matt Segal, The sharp end
-
Murph - Posts: 188
- Joined: Mon Oct 02, 2006 9:46 pm
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