Pink Panther direct start bolts?

[Peabody]

Wondering what the consensus is on putting a bolt or two on the manky direct start to Pink Panther, below the halfway belay. yeah, it goes as is, but I was thinking a bolt to protect the R-ish part might make it more widely enjoyed. Will give it a scrub when I get a chance sometime soon anyway. I bet this will start a fight of some kind on here because that's what always seems to happen no matter what's posted. I just want to know people's brief thoughts and won't act unless most think it's a good addition.

[martha]

Dave, I hope you've got your oil gear on.. cause the flower is gonna start flying!

LOL

I vote no in any case, as if you want a more protected start to that route, there is one already.

Cara

[Shawn B]

I agree Dave that it would be nice to have a better start to PP so it can all be done in one pitch. I think you probably have a hard sell to bolt the original PP direct line. If you do want to, the appropriate thing to do would be to contact the original FA and ask their permission. If they agree, then go for it. Keep in mind that minkey is a very traditional area and it shouldn't be a sport climb. Another thing to keep in mind too is that the climbing on pp direct is really not that good. There is a line in between pp direct and way life should be that has better climbing and I don't believe its been established as a route (tr'd many times though). It would need a couple of bolts to be non r rated and a good scrub. I think it would be a great direct line to pp. Been wanting to do it myself but just haven't found the time. Starts 5-8 feet left of wlsb and finishes in the middle of the pp belay ledge. Prob 7ish.

[Adam]

i think one or two well placed bolts would improve the start to this stellar route.

who has the FA?

[Stef]

I'll cast my vote against adding a bolt. I think of Pink Pather as a "graduation" climb into some of the harder trad stuff at Welsford. It is not ridiculously hard or dangerous, but you do have to step-up the commitment a little from the enjoyable moderates in the 5.6-5.8 range. Pink Panther is a line to be proud of when you tick it for the first time. I think a bolt would detract from that experience.

There are also a lot of other really nice, well bolted sport and mixed lines at that grade in Welsford and Sunnyside for people to enjoy. Leave a few bolder ones for those that want to test themselves a litte.

[JonA]

I think we should fix a ladder up to the ledge. Avoid all that silly rock climbing.

[Fred]

As much as I like bolts, I don't think PP is the place for them. I've led the direct start sans problem and it was a great route with just the right amount of spice.

If we ad a bolt here, what's next? Wheeping traverse? Rockstar mid-section runout? Cheekbone Corner?

[Adam]

Pink Panther is a line to be proud of when you tick it for the first time. I think a bolt would detract from that experience.

I agree that it is something to work up to... but when I've led it I found the bottom section to be sketchy - dirty, no gear, and no positive holds etc. the part that really challenges you is well protected, and far up off the deck. the sketchy part is near the ground and is not well protected. a bolt would help make the sketchy part safe, and let people get up into the business where you really can test yourself. i don't think a bolt down low would detract from the fun up high.

[john]

I vote no, its 5.6 climbing on a 5.10 trad climb, if better pro is wanted the right hand traversing version is G and about 5.7

[motanb]

I say 'no' too. John B. is right: use the start to the right which can be safely protected. When the day comes you want to try a spicy direct start (5.6) give it;-)

[Adam]

too many bolts make me feel sketchy on easy runouts lol. i remember a 5.9 in red rocks that had like 16 bolts in 100'. by the time i got to the top i was only 2' runout but it felt like much further heh.

[*Chris*]

I also find myself voting 'no' given the specifics of the route in question. It's one I'm going to have in my sights soon enough. If you really want to pound some worthwhile bolts into Minkey I suggest adding rap anchors in order to retire some very fatigued spruces atop the nearby trade routes.

I can get behind the idea of routes being spicey... but anchors should be bomber!

[STeveA]

I am pretty certain the direct start is one of my routes, and I vote NO.

[Peabody]

OK, Roger that. Will leave that one alone. But I will throw a few bolts on Warm and Sultry. It will be way better once we don't have to carry cams up it.

[Adam]

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