Alien failures - pull testing results

[granite_grrl]

This fellow on RC.com has a pretty sweet testing rig and likes to break stuff. Take this thread as you will, but I feel he has supplied some good information and he's putting his neck out there to bring you this information.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2143786;page=unread#unread

[Adam]

/sigh

but i love my aliens... they are so bomber... assuming they don't blow apart

[betaburgler]

Good article. Well worth the read.

They mention proof loading which involves loading a test specimen to it rated maximum, or some percentage of its rated maximum. If people were interested in having gear proof loaded the company I work for specializes in failure analysis and mechanical testing. Unfortunately I'm not sure what fixtures we have at the moment that might be used to test climbing gear; however they could be made. Mechanical testing is not cheap, but if there was significant interest in the local climbing community then it might be possible to come up with a reasonable rate for proof loading suspect gear. The only way to defray the cost of course would be to have enough interest to spread the cost of the fixtures out. If there is any interest at all I can check to see if we already have fixtures that might be used to test particular devices such as cams.

Of course we can also conduct failure analysis, but I have to hope that I never see a piece of failed gear on my desk.

You can check out our web site here: AMC - Mechanical Testing, Failure Analysis, Materials Consultants

[Fred]

Too long to read. What's the slim version? Are the new pieces even still sketchy?

[chossmonkey]

Are the new pieces even still sketchy?

In general no, but all should be considered suspect. If you have some you should consider getting them pull tested.

A come-a-long and some sort of "fuse" with a known breaking strength would work on the cheap. Just be careful of stuff flying around when the fuse breaks.

[Murph]

Here is another interesting thread on the manufacturing quality [or lack thereof] of CCH Aliens. This article suggests that there is huge variation in the location of the axle holes. A mis-centered hole will change the dynamics and cam-angle depending on which direction it is off center. Check it out.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2149131;page=unread#unread

[szymiec]

my thoughts? no quality control, terrible customer service, recent test results. In my opinion, use them for aid and thats all. if at all. The offsets are pretty hard to beat for pin scars if you are climbing old aid routes though.

c

[granite_grrl]

Has anyone used the Metolious offset cams? It's my understanding that Alien offsets are hard (impossible?) to come by anymore. I've been very tempted to buy the Metolious ones in the past, but haven't been sure of how well they'd work for free climbing (I was thinking of using them at places like the Gunks, that has a lot of pin scars).

[Burley]

They sell the Alien offsets at Rock and Snow in New Paltz outside of the Gunks.

[granite_grrl]

That would be the one place I'd look (and I'm headed back down to the Gunks here for a couple of weeks too). BUT I don't trust Aliens, and I am a huge fan of Metolious. If I was going to buy offset cams you know which brand I'll going for, just wondering if anyone has experience with them.