First Face Sport Routes

[chameleon]

After considerable deliberation, procrastination and finally actual effort (4 days overall), the rusty old bolts at First Face have been replaced. Thanks to CNS for the drill/bolts, Rich LaPaix for contributing 3 days of effort, and Sean Willett for his vision in putting up these fine routes in the first place. Here’s a couple of photos and some brief notes. (the #'s refer to listing in guidebook):

#6 - Sins and Transgressions - 5 bolts + 2 bolt anchor (not shown on photo)
This route is awesome but has seen very little action. A bit of a stretch between the 1st and 2nd bolts but the climbing is easy here. Needs a little cleaning but it’s in pretty good shape.


#12 – Ludicrous Anachronism - 7 bolts + 2 bolt anchor
The 5th bolt will seem a little far right (since you end up working out the left arête/arch) but it’s there because this is where the rock is the most solid and easy to clip. The next clip is pretty comfortable off of decent holds.

[The 2 bolt anchor for this climb is shared with route #13. At the present time the old anchor hasn’t been removed yet but will be eventually.]

#13 – Slave to Fashion - 6 bolts
Probably the most popular of Willett’s routes. Great climbing with 2-3 cruxes.
The first bolt was not replaced as it was free of corrosion. Keep your belayer out from below you, as the jug just below the 2nd bolt seems a little hollow these days (probably solid but it would not be good to pull this on your belayer). At the 4th bolt, people sometimes get confused as to where to go. You could probably move right to join Mea Culpa if you wanted, but the original line goes left and up to the left-angling arch. This stretch is straightforward (5.9ish) but a little spicy. Check your holds and keep cool.

#14 – Mea Culpa – 8 bolts + 2 bolt anchor
The first bolt can be clipped from the fractured blocks on the right. I can’t remember if you start climbing it from the right (where you clip from) or if you can climb directly to it [probably the latter….or if you’re having real troubles: the ladder].
In an effort to keep the route more or less a consistent “sport route” a new bolt location was added to the climb (bolt no.6) – [after discussions and approval of the first ascentionist]. This now replaces the previous need for gear in this 20 foot section. Above the roof, we decided not to add any new bolts. Instead we replaced the previous “fixed nut” with a new “fixed nut” [same location]. As you will find out, it’s a bit odd up there. The nut sits only a few feet above the last bolt (which is at the lip of the roof). After the fixed nut, the climbing eases up considerably to the anchors. One of the two original anchor bolts was non-corroded so we left that it place plus two new ones.

Enjoy!

[chameleon]

I should also add that we put every effort into ensuring that the climbs retain their original character as envisioned by the developer. Some locations were altered slightly to benefit those of us who are less than 7' tall - or moved slightly to straighten the line and make it clearer where the climb goes. In all cases, bolts were placed where the rock was the most solid, which means in some places they won't be directly in-line with the climbing.

S

[mick]

Well done gentlemen.

Did you guys replace the rusty rotten anchors on Pyramid too?

[chameleon]

yep. it's the same anchor as for Sins and Transgression.
although when leading Pyramid we usually take it to the top...step left from the bolts and head up that bouldery "V" notch... or traverse further left for an easy, rope-dragging escape.

[The Mitt]

Wow good to see. Great Job guys!!!

[chameleon]

Finally had a chance to climb on the new bolts on the weekend. They all seem to work well.
I personally tested (body weight) all but one bolt on Mea Culpa. Would've flashed it fer sure but public safety comes first after all (heh!heh!).

Although I was uncertain about how that climb starts (see previous post), the direct start is fairly straightforward. It helped to see some guiding chalk from others who have been working it - thx yo!

S

[Nate]

Aidas and I got out to work Mea Culpa. Super tough super good climbing. Straight up to the first bolt is easier than it looks. Thanks for the re-bolting guys, it looks good.

Nate

[Visiting Halifax]

I went to First face yesterday and the climbing is great. I try that 5.11d route, Sins and Transgrassions. I know you guys worked hard on that and it is great that you have rebolted the area, but I would like to mention, without offending anyone, that the first to second bolt could likely be a dangerous fall. Although it "is" the easiest (still solid cimbing though) section of the route (once you've passed that crazy reachy move just above the draw), the clipping from the two-finger pocket isn't the most confortable. You need to be a solid climber and make sure this route is under your redpoint level to attempt it.

I am saying that because I am afraid that some day, someone could get hurt. In an ideal world, it won't happen because most people will bail if they don't feel like they have the ability to do it; but a foot can easily slip. I might also just be a bad fall if you manage to avoid the ledge, who knows?

Looking at other routes (the 5.12a and another 5.11), it seemed to me that the gap between first and second bolts are often pretty big. I know first ascent climbers were often boldier and/or stronger, and that the rebolting was made similarly to those first ascents, but the incresing amount of people now getting into climbing makes it more of an issue nowadays, and accident aren't good for anyone in the climbing community.

That said, I think the best should be to make a note in the [furute] guidebook, or elsewhere, to advise climbers of the risks and let them know those routes should be attempted if they are in or under their confort zone. As you can't really see the bolts from the bottom (in Sins and Transgressions), it is very hard to know before actually climbing the thing. This way, most people will know what to expect.

Also, when routes have more bolts, people are keener to try them on lead instead of walking on top of the cliffs to set up top ropes. It is much better this way: less erosion of soil, less risks of rocks falling from the top or people falling from the top from making wrong manipulations. It is my opinion and I can conceive that others might think different. I would be really interested to hear about it.

Thank you very much and have a safe climbing
Aryane

[Seb]

I’m inclined to agree with Aryane here. If the two have to be mutually exclusive, I think climber safety should trump the interest of maintaining the “original character” of routes. This is because I think the former is much more important than the later. A familiar objection to this line of thinking is: there needs to be bold climbing around for those who wish to pursue it. But my reply to this is that there are tons of bold trad routes in the province – and if you’re looking for bold, then trad is the way to go. However, there should also be climbing at the other end of the spectrum; and for a province where there’s so little sport climbing to begin with, it makes sense to me to ensure that those few bolted lines offer what most people are looking for in a sport climb (which, I think, is the opportunity to get on lead without worrying too much about the need for an extra pair of underwear). So, it seems to me that the interests of more climbers could be met by ensuring that the few sport climbs in our area are well protected.

All this being said, I’m not at all prepared to start going out and sticking extra bolts where I think they should be. This decision would probably be best made by the board members of Climb Nova Scotia, since these benevolent volunteers are elected by individual members of the climbing community to serve their collective interests. It should be mentioned that, in the absence of additional bolts, it seems to me that added security and comfort on these bold sport climbs can often be achieved by plugging in gear. This holds true for Sins and Transgressions, which has a lot of little cracks on it. Big Foot Motel at Sorrow’s End is probably another good example (I’m thinking specifically of the arced crack between the two last bolts).

Thoughts anybody?

[Rich]

Hi Seb and Aryane,

I agree with both of you that the section on Sins and transgressions is unneccesarily risky and that community discussion on whether another bolt be placed in such areas is worthwhile. However, I don't agree that it's up to the discretion of CNS to go adding bolts. From my perspective, the first ascentionist retains the right to make this decision and if the community thinks a route should be altered, it should be done so with their permission.

Another thing to keep in mind is the quality of rock - in areas of First Face it is rather fractured and this has been responsible for some of the spacing on the routes. I don't think this is so much of a concern for the section on Sins and Transgressions however. Also, whereas some of the initial bolts on the other lines look spaced, they are much more reasonable when you're actually leading the line (good clipping stances et al.).

[Visiting Halifax]

Good to know about the other routes, so I might be inclined to try them if I have a chance. Seb, you are definitely right, I brought some small cams with me on the way up of Sins and transgressions and i had put one two feet below the second bolt, I felt way better then. I was taking them out after clipping the bolt, but just for added security, it is a good thing to have extra gear (I had also put a small cam before the first bolt, just because you don't really know what the move will be and I was quite happy, because this "sidepull layback clipping", although, solid, could potentially be hard when you feel stress).

[john]

It boggles my mind why people think we should question the way someone chooses to put up a slighty bold route, it gives something to stylistically aspire to. Does it always need to be safe, if it is just movement one wants, you can usually top rope. But bolting it takes away the opportunity to venture into commiting territory which is why historically climbers moved towards minizing fixed gear, it preserves mental challenge not just physical.

Why do people want info in the guide regarding bolt placement, what happened to adventure and the skill of assesing from below what you can and can't do or be comfortable with?

Good work preserving the original nature I think you guys did the right thing.

Just a different perspective no offence intended.

jb

[chossmonkey]

It boggles my mind why people think we should question the way someone chooses to put up a slighty bold route, it gives something to stylistically aspire to. Does it always need to be safe, if it is just movement one wants, you can usually top rope. But bolting it takes away the opportunity to venture into commiting territory which is why historically climbers moved towards minizing fixed gear, it preserves mental challenge not just physical.

Are these not rap bolted routes?

[Adam]

It boggles my mind why people think we should question the way someone chooses to put up a slighty bold route, it gives something to stylistically aspire to.

i think the point is that if you're bolting it, you're not aspiring to raise any ethical standard or do so in impeccable 'style'. if you're putting up a sport route, make it safe. if you want to put up a trad route then make it as bold as you like/can. if it is mixed then are you bolting on lead? if not then you're not exactly maintaining the ethics to which you're ostensibly aspiring.

wanna fight? heh

[Burley]

It boggles my mind why people think we should question the way someone chooses to put up a slighty bold route, it gives something to stylistically aspire to.

i think the point is that if you're bolting it, you're not aspiring to raise any ethical standard or do so in impeccable 'style'. if you're putting up a sport route, make it safe. if you want to put up a trad route then make it as bold as you like/can. if it is mixed then are you bolting on lead? if not then you're not exactly maintaining the ethics to which you're ostensibly aspiring.

wanna fight? heh

I'll through my spoon in this pot! .... stir... stir... stir

I agree that if you are bolting on rap it defeats the style in the traditional sense (everyone would agree I think), but the route can still be bolted to be bold even if done on rap if that is the style of climbing the FAist sees fit - we don't have to agree with it.

If boldness keeps quality routes from being done then so be it - nice to have something to aspire to for sure - mental and physical man-up-ed-ness. Just because I climb 5.9 doesn't mean it is my right to have every single 5.9 I lead be extremely well protected. Just because it is a nice route doesn’t mean it ought to be well protected. Keep in mind we are rock climbers and we ain't out skippin' through the daisy's.

Trad climbing is starting at the bottom and finishing at the top - that simple - there is no bolting on rap, but feel free to hang from a hook.

In putting up free routes the impact to the rock should be kept to a minimum (I think everyone would agree with this). If there is a cam placement that gets whipped on 10 times per sunny day and the crack is wearing badly it would be good ethic to add a bolt to preserve the feature - hand drilled on lead - hang off a cam in that crack one last time

[Adam]

we don't have to agree with it.

damn skippy!

IMHO if you're bolting a route, you are taking away the 'boldness' that it would have if left au natural. making it an unsafe bolted route just seems bass ackwards to me. why take the time to do something half assed? if you want a route that challenges you mentally then either:

A> climb trad
or
B> bolt it run out, but NOT to the point of ground fall. that is just a waste of a good route.

i'll meet you out behind the buses after school burley. IT"S ON!!!

[Visiting Halifax]

Nice discussions everyone, I am having a lot of fun reading about everyone's opinion of what and what not. It is great that we are able to discuss things and share points of view, being different or not.

I just want to mention I went back to first face yesterday and I still love the routes there. I tried Mea Culpa on top rope, afterall, 'cause it seemed hard and cause it was the end of the day, and how glad I am! Awesome route, with some kickass moves the whole way up. I wasn't even sure were the crux was, as for me, even the first move from the left was a crazy hard lock off, and the whole thing felt to me like very sustain climbing. But I loved it, and I will definitely come back to work on it.... euh, I am a bit scared of the last roof, but should get over it. I want to encourage people to go to that cliff 'cause the climbing is great. Pyramid, Sins', Mea, Black Diamond, Arches, all classics to me.

Keep the good work there and the discussions. I'll be back some day

[Rich]

Great that you made it out again and interesting to hear an outsider's perspective. Truth be told, most visitors stick to the boulders but First Face is definately loaded with classics. Best rope climbing in the province in my opinion (although some say Ship Rock is comparable).