Rock Climbing Rope Skills Clinic

[Chuck Sutton]

As promised earlier in the year, I will be presenting a Rock Climbing Rope Skills Clinic to all climbers both new to outdoor roped climbing and those interested in brushing up on their technical skill.
For those who don’t know me (and would like to know the credentials of the instructor), I’ve been climbing 15 years and, of those, guided 5 years with Atlantic Climbing School in Maine. It was through my guide training that I acquired much of the formal knowledge and skill I use in my climbing.
With support from CNS, I would like to take the opportunity to pass on some of this knowledge to the Nova Scotia climbing community. Topics to be covered include:

1. Equipment overview including how to choose the right gear and the kinds of routes you’ll be climbing. This will include rope types, biner types, choice of cordage/runners, etc.
2. Building proper anchors including topics such as redundancy, appropriate equipment choices, the relationship between angles and force, static vs. dynamic forces, etc.
3. Proper belay technique including how to properly belay from the top of the cliff.
4. Proper rappelling technique including how to properly back up a rappel.
5. Properly transitioning from topping out on a route to rappelling back to the ground.
6. Frequently used knots: All the common ones plus:
Double figure-8 on a bite, Clove hitch, Munter hitch, etc.
7. Bring to light some of the potentially dangerous bad habits of seemingly experienced climbers.
8. You get the idea…

If you don’t know the answers to questions like:

• Why do we belay and rappel from the belay loop and not the waist/leg loop tie in point?
or
• My partner just got her long hair pulled into her belay device while rappelling and she’s stuck 40 feet above the ground (and quite uncomfortably). What do I do?

… this might be a good clinic for you.

Where: Sorrow’s End.
When: Saturday, May 9th, 10:00am
Cost: Free (If you would like to make a $5.00 donation to offset some of the photocopy costs, it would be appreciated although not mandatory – I know there are many poor students out there).

Everyone is invited to my place (6035 Jubilee Road) following for a barbeque. Bring some frosty beverages (I know even the poor students have money for some things).

If you would like to attend:

1. Please RSVP to my e-mail address: csutton@staff.ednet.ns.ca. If you don't know me or I don't know you, that's ok. E-mail me anyway to let me know for numbers.
3. If you can provide transportation for others (and how many) OR need a drive to and from Sorrow's End, please let me know in your RSVP e-mail.
4. If you're curious as to what gear you might need, your standard climbing harness, helmet, belay device etc. will be fine. If you don’t have any gear of your own, CNS has graciously offered use of their equipment.
5. BYOB and something for grilling.

If you’ve any questions, please don’t hesitate to send me an e-mail. As I hear from people, I’ll post drive information/times for those needing transportation.

'Hope to hear from lots of people and see you on the 9th.

Chuck

[Peabody]

Hmm. Sounds dodgy.

[Chuck Sutton]

...and I forgot to mention:

There will be a guest appearance by Dave Peabody who will be giving individual clinics on:

1. Wheelbarrow maintenance,
2. Things you can do with rancid meat from your refrigerator,

as well as (and this is a favourite)

3. How to build your own puppet theatre.

Thanks Dave, for volunteering your time and valuable talents.

Chuck

[Seb]

Chuck,

The clinic you're offering to put on sounds great! I think a lot of
people who are new to climbing on a rope would benefit from a formal
introduction to safe rope skills for outdoor climbing. It's nice to
learn how to do things correctly right from the very beginning and not
fall into bad habits. Also, for those who aren't necessarily beginners
to climbing on a rope, it would be nice to dispel some of the climbing
dogma and learn the justification for the things that we sometimes do
and take for granted without really knowing why we do them. Although I
like to think I know it all, deep down I know that's not even close to
the truth. I know I'd learn a thing or two from your course, so I'd
like to attend. Sign me up!

[Chuck Sutton]

The response to the rock clinic has been extremely positive. If you are interested and have not yet responded, please do so as quickly as possible to reserve a spot. To maintain the quality of instruction, space is limited.

Please check the forum in the next week for drive details, meeting times, etc. In addition, I'll be monitoring the weather forecast closer to time. In the event of unfavourable weather, we'll look at an alternative date.

'Looking forward to seeing everyone on the 9th.

Chuck

If you're unable/don't wish to attend the clinic, you're still entirely welcome to stop over to my place for a frosty beverage.

[Chuck Sutton]

Due to the great response from people regarding the climbing clinic, we have reached capacity with 22 people. As a result, I will be unable to accommodate others wishing to take part. If I have responded to you via e-mail, you are signed up for the clinic.

If you are just currently hearing about this, please send me an e-mail expressing interest. I may consider putting on another clinic if interest continues to be strong.

Please note that this clinic is not offered as a day of rock climbing. It is offered as a day of instruction. It would be unfortunate for someone to show up anticipating a day of climbing and then have to listen to me for 4 or 5 of hours... what a bummer.

Continue to check the forum for updates. Although the weather is looking unfavourable at this point, it has a couple of days to improve. In addition I'll have drive meeting times and details posted by the end of tomorrow.

'Looking forward to the 9th.

Chuck

[Chuck Sutton]

I have been monitoring the weather and things have been steadily improving.

We will meet at Steve-O-Reno's on Brunswick St. at 9:30 and leave there around 9:45. From there, we'll travel to the parking lot located immediately on the right hand side when turning onto Route 333, Prospect Road (the Peggy's Cove Loop) from the St. Margaret's Bay Road. We can leave any unnecessary cars there and carpool to Terrance Bay from there. We will leave that parking area by roughly 10:15.

If you're running late or need to get in touch, my cell phone number is 456-6384. I'll check any messages before we leave either location.

I have not had any requests for drives so if you need one, please e-mail me as soon as possible.

With you, you should bring:

1. All necessary things for a day in the outdoors (sunscreen, warm clothes, water, lunch/snacks) I would bring some really warm clothes as the area is coastal and prone to cool breezes.
2. Your climbing harness, belay device, biners, etc. (if you can swing it before now and then, obtaining a 4 foot piece of 6 mm cord would be particularly beneficial (sorry for not indicating this earlier - MEC is generally well stocked).
3. Perhaps a small notepad might be helpful to have.

Should the weather take a turn for the worst, I'll post on the forum ONLY if I cancel. Take one last look on Saturday morning.

If you have any questions, please feel free to e-mail me at csutton@staff.ednet.ns.ca.

'Looking forward to seeing everyone on Saturday.

Chuck

[Chuck Sutton]

'Great turnout for the clinic. We had 23 people "battling the bog" on the way in, enduring the cold temps at the cliff and ducking out in the drizzle following. Despite the cold, spirits remained high throughout the day and rose a little higher with the frosty brews in the evening.

Thank you to all who participated. Thanks specifically to Mick Levin at CNS as well as Sean Therien from Ground Zero for the use of gear and thanks to all who provided transportation and food following.

'Hope this trend of involvement from the Nova Scotia climbing community continues and we're able to offer more climbing events in the near future.

Chuck

[Seb]

Chuck,

I think those who attended your clinic got almost as much enjoyment out of it as you did from having the opportunity to hear yourself talk for an entire afternoon. You did a great job! Thank you.

Seb

[Joe]

I commend you NS guys for listening to Chuck for an entire afternoon. You see, he left NB because he couldn't draw an audience anymore. Apparently he still has wind...

[Chuck Sutton]

Aren't there moderators for this thing? And if so, Joe how'd you get by them? Yes, I still have lots of wind Joe - but fortunately, mine comes out of my mouth - unlike yours - which is the true reason I left New Brunswick. Ah, the banter - may it never end... Hey, next time your down to see mama, look me up - I'll buy you a beer. Or if you're with your family, we'll have you over for dinner.

[chossmonkey]