New Sunnyside Line?

[Leehammer]

At the far right of the sunnyside wall, before you get to the section where people have been bouldering, there was a pretty nice clean line. Dave Drolet and I climbed it today. Just wondering if it was anybody's project, because it was really fun and we'd like to bolt it.
Oh yeah, anyone wanna show us how to bolt properly also?

Liam

[Adam]

i think Burley did a little work on that 2 seasons ago but i would guess it's fair game for development.

[Burley]

Liam,

I've climbed two lines right of the last bolted line. I'm not going to bolt them. There are a couple over there that have been done on gear as well. The only one that is in Fred's suppliment to the guide book is "Man Up Beaver". Do what you want with the others, but do a good job so nothing has to be redone or chopped.

I'm off Mon to Thur next week and would be happy to show you how to drill some holes, but I'm not orgainizing any of the equipment or carrying it And I'd be up for some climbing any of those days - Cochrane Lane or Sunnyside.

Do you have a drill, drill bit, fixe bolts, hangers and rap hangers? You'll need those, a wrench for the nuts, a hammer, straw to blow the dust out. If you don't have a drill (not just any hammer drill will work) you'll need to be a member of the UNB R&I club to sign it out. You should order the bolts from MEC.

Erick Burley

[Leehammer]

Hey Erick,

I'm out of town for the next week or so. I will try to get all the gear organized and then maybe we can schedule a time to go out.

Liam

[Burley]

Sounds good. I'm off Tue to Fri the following week. I'm pretty sure MEC only sells one type of Fixe bolt (3' x 3/8' SS can't recall if it is 304 or 306 right off) and it is the only one you want to use, but you can look at any number of old posts on this site for the specs.

I've never seen anyone use a torque wrench, but there is a general rule of thumb for the number turns (found on the MEC site I think... or on here) and you also have to go by feel - find that rule of thumb and write it down. Read as much as you can on bolting.

Erick

[chossmonkey]

They are 304SS. Fixe makes their normal hangers out of 304 as well.

316SS is about twice the price of 304 and only needs to be used in extremely caustic environments, such as sea cliffs.


Also, MEC's advice on tightening should be taken with a grain of salt. For most placements it would likely over tighten them.

[Leehammer]

I guess 304 and 306 etc are types of steel right... I can't find anywhere on the MEC site where it details exactly what type of steel it is. I wouldn't say Sunnyside is a particularly harsh environment for bolts.

Here is what I was going to buy, if someone wants to give the thumbs up that would be great.

bolt hanger: http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_deta ... 1363493878
bolt: http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_deta ... 1363493898
rap rings: http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_deta ... 1363493862
drill bit: http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_deta ... 1363493886

A review of the drill bit says that it doesn't fit all hammer drills. Does anybody know if this bit fits the UNB drill?

Thanks,
Liam

[Fred]

You got it Liam.

Yes the bit will fit the drill. The club drill has an SDS connection which is a quick connect interlock unlike your normal drill bits that only clamp under the force of the chuck. You also need to get the Hilti nylon brush to clean out the hole. This is essential.

Remember, placing the actual bolt is the easy part, properly positioning the bolts on the climb is the challenge. Think about it ten times over, drill once.

[Leehammer]

For sure the placement is important. We have been thinking about it a lot. I think the bolting on this line is actually quite obvious.

Erick mentioned in a previous post using a straw to remove the dust. Is the nylon brush really much more effective than this method?

[Fred]

A straw or blow-out bulb will clean the major dust out of the hole but will not clean the edge of the hole. There have been some cases where the new KB3's have been botched because they couldn't be hammered into the hole. Ensuring the hole is clean will minimize the odds of this happening. The old KB2's were not as tight in the hole and were easy to pound in. If you want to be safe, I'd say use a straw and the brush.

Also, this tip will save you. Tap tap tap gently to send the bolt into the hole. Resist the urge to pound on it because a slight eccentricity on your swing will bend the stud slightly making it impossible to pound into the hole and botching the bolt and hole.

my 2 cents

[Adam]

As Erick said, if you want to get the drill you need to be a member of UNB R&I. And you will have to have some instruction before being let loose with it. Bolting is an art form (yes, debatable ) and you can easily ruin your masterpiece if you're not careful.

While the bolting may seem obvious on a line, once you're up there tapping on the rock you can be surprised with how crappy some rock can be (and therefore an unsuitable spot for a bolt). Lots to keep in mind.

[*Chris*]

Just to clarify what might be a bit of a misconception... I don't believe it's the policy of the club to just lend out the drill to just any member who asks. There is a short-list of experienced folks whom are entrusted with it. At minimum, I expect the club would want an inexperienced bolter to go out with someone with a substantial route development resume (as seems to be the case here).

Just thought that was worthy of mention.

p.s. I have a document which is a good general resource to bolting considerations but the forum won't let me post a pdf. Am I doing something wrong?