Stairway

[Murph]

The second bolt hanger on "IT'S ABOUT TIME 5.9+" spun slightly when I clipped it on Sunday. There is still plenty of exposed tread and I climbed above it with confidence. If you are in the area and have a wrench, get on it... fun climb!

[*Chris*]

I'm pretty sure that ethic demands ye' who finds the loose hanger is responsible for it's prompt tightening! ye' better get back on it!

So how is that climb anyway?

[david]

stupid question... what size wrench does one need to tighten loose bolts. I noticed a few loose hangers in Sunnyside, including the anchor on the well-travelled superstar (might have been fixed already). I brought a random size last week-end and it was wrong. Thanks

[Pierre]

How about trying an adjustable wrench?

[Murph]

I'm pretty sure that ethic demands ye' who finds the loose hanger is responsible for it's prompt tightening! ye' better get back on it!

So how is that climb anyway?

I didn't have a wrench with me but that will be something I'll carry in my pack from now on. As for the climb itself, it is a pretty fun climb. Thin(ish) holds but no really hard moves... spicy 5.9.

[Greg]

stupid question... what size wrench does one need to tighten loose bolts. I noticed a few loose hangers in Sunnyside, including the anchor on the well-travelled superstar (might have been fixed already). I brought a random size last week-end and it was wrong. Thanks

You need a 9/16 wrench. Do not overtighten the nut though........that could be bad. I believe re-tourqed nuts need to go a quarter turn beyond hand tight. Someone else on the board may be able to verify that.

[Greg]

The little wrenches that come with Black Diamond ice tools will also work.

[Murph]

Check out the new DMM Nutbuster nut tool, has a wrench built in... neat idea but how many sport climbers carry a nut tool?

[cory]

Thanks for the warning, Murph.

Do not overtighten the nut though........that could be bad. I believe re-tourqed nuts need to go a quarter turn beyond hand tight.

That's about right, Greg. Bolting takes some practice and hands on experience. Sometimes the expansion sleeve bights in early, sometimes late. With practice you can get a feel for what's tight, and what's over or under-tightened. It's better to err on the side of under tight. The hanger may spin and some force is lost, but you can typically notice this when clipping and improvise or at the very least snug it up with your fingers. Over-tight and it looks good, but it'll hold about as much force as a stick in the mud.

I'm not sure if it's safest to tighten it immediately yourself Murph, or wait for someone with experience to do it. Best bet would be buy someone a beer in exchange for having them teach you to do it.