Crumbly/Fractured Rock on Snake Peel

[Burley]

The only reason I'm posting this is that this is such a heavily traveled route. There is lots of loose and fractured rock in Welsford and dealing with it is a part of the sport.

Be aware that there is crumbly/fractured rock at the top of snake peel. Some came off under foot and I cleaned it up the best I could.

The biggest problem area is at the top of the route (above the horizontal) at the end of the vertical crack (left of the tree) the left side of the crack is fractured (visible when looking down into the crack from above). I would personally avoid protection for the top out (active or passive) as setting the gear (cranking down a nut or cam) will increase the impact on the rock.

I'm not sure how far the fracture goes down, but the rock on the left side of the crack sounds hollow for a couple feet.

I'm not saying it is going to come off tomorrow (I think it will take some time to happen on its own). I'm saying it is going to go sometime and we should do what we can to slow the process by either avoiding it or taking it easy on it.

[martha]

just to confirm... do you mean the bigger crack left/above tree just as you top out... above the thin 'crux' move? Where you have your 'thank god' moment before the finish? hehe

[Burley]

Cara,
Yes - a number of moves above the crux. It would be the absolute last placement (most new leaders toss in a cam or nut) before toping out. This would be the spot where folks would slam in a "bomber" #1 BD. Usually a #0.5 BD in the horizontal after the "crux" and this one before the topout. So I'd say double up the purple with a bomber placement to the left of the horizontal and pull the last few moves and be done with it.

[martha]

I recall only placing a piece at the crux and then one when my feet are in the thin crack and my hands are in the fat vertical one... then up to the top from there. I'm interested to see this flake... should i ever get back to Welsford! LOL. Fred and I are going to need some mules to carry our kids and gear......

any takers?!

[cory]

I thought the whole point of having kids was so they could serve as mules and carry all the gear for you.

[Burley]

I was out last night and gave this a good look and it'll stay for a while to come, but should avoid the gear setting to help it last longer. There is good gear below... and the tree.

[Burley]

I was thinking we could slap on some duct tape and maybe epoxy the crack! That'll toughen er' up. Since we have the tape out we might as well mark all of the "key" holds - this is always a good idea.. they do it in the gym all the time.. I know.. I've seen it.

Are there any tape experts out there that could inspect this once done as I don't have much experience taping?

While we are at it we could glue on some additional rock to make that thin bit easier for the shorties... maybe a big ol' foot ledge half way up that cruxy bit?

Oh this is going to be wicked! What a stellar route this will become! Won't be snake "peel" anymore... maybe we could call it snake "solid".

You'd think I was an engineer, but you'd be wrong! I'm just naturally super smart.

Plot out that decision tree would ya.

[martha]

you know how they blow insulation into buildings? couldn't you get a big blower to blow concrete bits for texture? That would make it far stickier... snake sticky?

So would sticky fingers to its left have to be called 'really sticky fingers?' or 'much stickier now fingers'?

you are pretty smart Burley. I must admit.

[Burley]

SMRT

[Fred]

Check with Andrew. He's got some experience taping routes on real rock.

sorry Andrew couldn't resist.

[Burley]

Zing!

It is just sooo hard not to bring that up.

Andrew, you are a good sport my man!

[chossmonkey]

it'll stay for a while to come, but should avoid the gear setting to help it last longer. There is good gear below... and the tree.

It is so loose that there is worry it will fall off and people put gear in it?

[STeveA]

Yep.

[Fred]

Choss: I'm sure it's better than that stuff you plug gear into out in Ontario. hehe

[Murph]

I was out last night and gave this a good look and it'll stay for a while to come, but should avoid the gear setting to help it last longer. There is good gear below... and the tree.

Climb like the Czech's.... knotted cord!!!

[Andrew]

Fred + Burl,

Ya, you know, to get hockey tape to stick to granite, you really gotta press hard and massage that sucker on there or it'll just come off on the first windy day. I was thinking next route I tape, I'll use a colour-code scheme and use red tape to highlight the crux area.

Rock on!

Andrew

Check with Andrew. He's got some experience taping routes on real rock.

sorry Andrew couldn't resist.

[Burley]

Nice reply!