Cape Breton Climber

[breton_fraser]

I'm new to the forum. So I've just gotten off of living and climbing for 3 years in the Calgary and now that I'm moving home (North Sydney, CB) for the summer. I have to start gathering some info on the east coast climbing scene. I'll probably be able to make it to the mainland occasionally for a little trip or two (i hear dover is awesome) but I was wondering about some routes near my own back yard. Any decent bouldering? Any chance of some sport? Thanks guys.

-A.J.

[Zamboni]

Black brook past ingonish, check in with park rangers first. And there stuff to boulder on the coast near lorraine louisbourg.

Cb

[Fred]

You should get a copy of Cassidy's "Nova Scotia Rock" guidebook available at MEC and also Ghislain Losier's "Bouldering Halifax" guidebook also available at MEC.

[peter]

I'm new to the forum. So I've just gotten off of living and climbing for 3 years in the Calgary and now that I'm moving home (North Sydney, CB) for the summer. I have to start gathering some info on the east coast climbing scene. I'll probably be able to make it to the mainland occasionally for a little trip or two (i hear dover is awesome) but I was wondering about some routes near my own back yard. Any decent bouldering? Any chance of some sport? Thanks guys. -A.J.

There is a climbing tradition in CB, but the CBH National Park has done its best to strangle it of late, and the raw material (rock) that you have to work with is simply not the best. I suggest you plan some road trips to the mainland this summer, looking for climbing partners and places to crash. Both are real possibilities. May - June, before the bugs get nasty, is the initial trad season down here, and June - August will offer some great bouldering, especially oceanside. Confirm you are not a serial killer and you will make some local contacts. Plan some three or four day long weekends, with a five hour trip each way (car, shuttle, bus), and you will do just fine. I imagine that you didn't trade Calgary for Sydney in the pursuit of climbing, but you can make the best of it.

PS: The route, "Hawaiian Barbie" in the CBHNP is absolutely briliiant and in need of a second ascent. Don't expect to put in any actual protection.

[jeremy benjamin]

You should look into becoming a member of CNS (climb Nova Scotia). http://www.climbnovascotia.ca/index.html
and book off work to attend boulderfest on Dover Island in June. This would be a great way to meet a large number of local climbers at once and camp overnight on Dover.

[gwa]

Someone thought it was worth writing a guidebook for Cape Breton's rock. You might still find these routes under some moss.

http://www.chesslerbooks.com/eCart/view ... oduct=8356

You should designate yourself the local climber and get to know all the climbing around Cape Breton. Get the momentum going and then everyone will want to come visit.

happy exploring!

[Zamboni]

Wow, Didn't know that book existed! Maybe CNS should buy one, keep it on file for members to reference, or use it to make a more up to date guide. Or supply it to lord Cassinator, and he can add the routs to his addendum.

[mick]

That's not a bad idea...

[breton_fraser]

i really appreciate the response guys. when's the dover island fest? and i wouldn't mind seeking out some good routes in my wanderings. i hear the ice can be pretty decent as well. i'm going to assume nfld is better? it could be a depressing year if i don't get to pull some granite. i'll hopefully see you all in a month or two.

[peter]

Wow, Didn't know that book existed! Maybe CNS should buy one, keep it on file for members to reference, or use it to make a more up to date guide. Or supply it to lord Cassinator, and he can add the routs to his addendum.

I have a copy somewhere in my basement. Will donate in exchange for free beer at the CNS AGM.

[mick]

Hey Peter,

You've got yourself a deal mister.

The CNS Annual General Meeting is going to be held on Tuesday April 14th at 6pm at a classroom (to be announced) at Dalplex. I'll make a new thread with the rest of the details in the next couple days when I know the venue for sure.

[chameleon]

I seem to remember there was NO beer at the last AGM and it suq'd!!