Ice Reports 2009

[Fred]

Hey folks. Same as last year, post your ice reports here and one of the moderators will compile it into the main thread. When this thread gets painfully long, we'll start part 2.

[PeterA]

Out at the hampton marsh today. Everything is still good. Most lines are in, except for the far right pillar, which hasn't touched down yet. Two lines were led.

-PJ

[Fred]

Based on PJ's ice report that Hampton is still in after the warm weather then I'd say Grand Falls is still in as well. A few people climbed there after xmas just before the warm weather.

[PeterA]

Out at waterfall wall today. Everything is really good. All the lines were led. Cave fever is looking fairly decent as well.

-PJ

[jeremy]

grand falls is in. 3 lines led.

[Joe]

At Waterfall Wall Saturday - no one else there!!! Led central; left was too thin and right too layered. Sun killed Cave Fever, and ice falling from mixed route. Ice quite soft (hero).

[PeterA]

tried to get to minister's face today, but the river is still sketchy definitely would not recommend trying the crossing for a little while yet. We got to about 200 feet from the ice, but it made scary cracking noises and dropping feelings so we turned back

-PJ

[cory]

Jan 3/09
St. Martins:
the overhanging seeping conglomerate just left of the caves has 4 or 5 hanging pieces, but only one goes to the ground and it looks quite climbable. This of course is from someone who has not, does not, and will not climb ice. Hiked out just beyond Melvin's beach, lots of ice forming, but nothing reaching the ground yet. Some lines on the east side of the St. Martin's harbour looked complete, but didn't get close. Again this is non-expert opinion, but figured the info may be a good start for anyone considering a trip that way.

[cory]

Some lines on the east side of the St. Martin's harbour looked complete, but didn't get close

check that, WEST side of the harbour

[PeterA]

minister's face is thick now. the rightmost pillar has touched down, and all lines are leadable. River seems to be solid

-PJ

[PeterA]

checked out bear mtn for any ice possibilities today. Nothing in yet, but there are 2 or 3 lines that will come in later on in the season

Went to the quarry afterwards. It's in-ish. Iced cheese is in, and drainpipe is thick. Most other lines are only topropeable at best.

-PJ

[Fred]

I've noticed lots of ice climbers have been making use of the ice reports but perhaps have not contributed themselves. If you enjoy the service of other people reporting on ice conditions to help plan your trip please contribute as well when you have the opportunity. No need for long winded trip reports but a short sentence to report on conditions would be greatly appreciated by the other users on this forum. Cheers all.

[Jon Corey]

Feb 1
Quarry in Welsford
Brutal hike in, Knee deep snow with 1" crust just under the surface
2 lines led. conditions not great

[PeterA]

went out to the redhead beach area today. All the lines were in, and were fairly thick. Needs a cold day though, everything was way, way too soft

-PJ

[Stacey]

Hopewell Cape Ice - Feb 7th

Bain de Sang - chandelier, and wet - but fun and challenging
Acadie - full (wet to left and brittle on right)

fun quick climbs.

Stacey

[Matt Peck]

Another year of ice school down with resounding success! A great day out on saturday to the Quarry, with excellent just below zero temps and fair ice. Drainpipe was fat, Ice Scream less so but still leadable, and a number of small pillars on the main face to play on. Slabs upper right were ok. Pictures athttp://www.noelchenier.ca/GALLERY/album442
Sunday was great despite the warm temps. All three lines on Waterfall Wall were in and leadable, with Moe being lead. Cave fever was wet and barely in, but saw an impressive lead by Dave Peabody amidst a throng of avid viewers.
Thanks to all who helped monitor, and to those who came out for the weekend!
See you next year!

[PeterA]

went out to St. Martins today. We were at the area just left of the stairs. A few lines weren't in, but for the most part everything was thick, and the ice was perfect.

-PJ

[Charley]

Grand Falls on Saturday was warm in the gorge and a bit wet, but The Curtains and Central Pillar were well formed. Goof Juice at a quick glance looked still solid too.

[Paddlerx]

Charlo was in, fat and fun.

a short vid:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Fih4hJ05ks

[Stef]

Nice Don, An FA I imagine. How hard was that dam climb?

[Paddlerx]

Climb was quite easy on excellent and suprerfat ice. Felt about the same as Atkh in arlee just shorter. The danger though was a few surprise sinkholes just to the left of the climb that looked about 15' deep. The danger of falling into water before getting to the ice felt very real there and that's why rob belayed me from waaaay back.

That being said, as you go to the right the climb looks like itd be steeper and a bit taller.

[PeterA]

out at waterfall wall today. Everything was thin. Middle and right line were led, but very thin. Left line was topropeable. Lots of ice coming down. Bottom half of the left line was gone by the end of the day, Joey's mixed line completely came down, causing a very scary moment, and cave fever was falling down. The warmth has not treated waterfall wall very well.

-PJ

[Charley]

Friday Matt and I went down to Bald Hill, had a quick look at the Quarry from the road on the way. The lower portion of Debatable was still there and parts of Iced Cheese (as far as we could tell with zoom lenses); otherwise we were mostly looking at rock. Weather was great, super sunny with a wind that was chilly in the morning but refreshing later in the day.

The lower tier of Bald Hill had quite a few separate flows, not all touching down and most very thin but looking like with good weather they'd plump up. The day ended with two lines:

Concepcion WI 3-, 40' (T)
FA: M. Peck, J. Barth (13.March.09)
FFA: M. Peck, J. Barth (13.March.09)
Follow the far left gully escape route from the lower tier to the upper.

Happy Adventure WI 4, 50' (T)
FA: M. Peck, J. Barth (13.March.09)
Ascend the flow immediately left of bolted line Neopolitan. Thin and delicate lower moves up to a small overhang, past Neopolitan's bolt anchors to tree on ledge above.

[Matt Peck]

Into Parlee last night for a late day. We were just heading in from the top as another party was leaving from below, so I think we just missed you Dan! The approach from the top is still totally unploughed, but between the snowmobile tracks and the hard snow the walking isn't that bad. Parlee is super fat, with all lines formed, but sunbaked wall is very baked, obviously. Pat's choice is in and thick for once.
Some interesting tracks in the snow showed one fairly large animal had threaded the ledges together to climb down into the gorge, and whoever took a dump next to the ATKH belay tree (blue webbing), please A) try to walk a little farther next time, B) cover it up next time and C) try some fiber, you've got problems!

[Burley]

Fiber - I love it!