Dyke Route ice been climbed in winter?

[Adam]

Norfolk and I made it up to do some aid at Joe's and saw what to my non-ice-climber eyes looked like a sweet line. The warm weather likely isn't being kind to the ice but if it chills down again it should see an ascent.

Anyone done this line?

Beauty day up there, why was no one else out?! ><

[Charley]

Dave and I were in to Waterfall Wall last Wednesday and took a slight detour over to Joe's to see if we could find it, and it was pretty thin then too. If we'd been a couple of weeks earlier it might have gone.

[chossmonkey]

Is it just thin or delaminated and rotten?

[Charley]

The top two-thirds still visible was thin, the bottom third I don't think was there, but Dave had a closer look than I did. They got full sun during the day, so probably pretty rotten in spots if it was still in. The bottom half of another thin line (not sure what route, if it was one) to the right of it fell in the 20 minutes we were looking at the Dyke.

Waterfall Wall was like climbing crusty snow. Large sections of lines left and right of us let go while we were there.

[Adam]

Pretty much the entire climb was formed, but after the rain and sun the past couple days I would guess it is not in great climbing shape.

But then again I'm not an ice climber so maybe someone should go try it if we get some more colder nights...

[chossmonkey]

Pretty much the entire climb was formed, but after the rain and sun the past couple days I would guess it is not in great climbing shape.

But then again I'm not an ice climber so maybe someone should go try it if we get some more colder nights...

With a couple cold days and not much sun thin stuff can come back really quick. The sun is really strong now though. Stuff can form and fall down pretty quick.

[Adam]

yesterday and today wouldn't have been kinda to it, but it is an obvious line that should see a send given good conditions...

so, any of ya know of this being climbed before?

[Adam]

what would be more impressive though would be the dyke route ice getting climbed in summer eh?

[*Chris*]

During the run of a few hours on saturday I watched quite a lot of ice fall off this line so I think it's on its way out. I would be a nice mixed line... three distinct 10m columns connected by a few mixed moves between each. So... has it been done in the past?

[Peabody]

It's in Joe's guide, it has been climbed. Can't remember the name of who did it. Looks nice.

[Joe]

No, as far as I know, it hasn't been lead. Steve and Chuck top-roped it a long time ago. I attempted to lead it twice, but backed off due to poor/delaminated ice and scary rock gear. I've been keeping my eye on it for a while, but haven't seen it form nice enough for a lead. It's an open project.

[Adam]

well i think it might have been leadable (if a tad thin/bold) lately before the warm spell by the looks of it, but who knows. truly a nice looking line.

[martha]

Man, the route sucks in the summer..... i can only imagine how much it must suck with scary/thin/delaminated ice on it!

[Adam]

haven't led it myself b/c it is so dirty but the ice line looks really nice for someone who likes that sort of nastiness...

[chossmonkey]

Man, the route sucks in the summer..... i can only imagine how much it must suck with scary/thin/delaminated ice on it!

I bet it is extra tasty in the winter. Sucky summer routes are often awesome winter routes. If you are into that sort of thing.

[Shawn B]

Might be tasty if you like extra spicy...5 star thai food. Any time I've seen it...including one attempt with Joe...it was definitely x rated and a technical gr5. The ice doesn't seem to bond well on that climb...I'm guessing due to its aspect getting morning sun and the nice black granite on which it forms. I remember some marginal rock gear in the first 15 feet but nothing after that.

[Fred]

That route is almost a chimney. I wouldn't be surprised if the pillar just doesn't reach the back of the "wall".