Welsford specific gear question?

[Murph]

What size gear fits in the crack (where the piton used to be) on Sleeping Beauty 5.10c at Exfoliated wall? Anyone remember?

[Fred]

yellow metolius

[Murph]

yellow metolius

so yellow C3 would work

[Fred]

No the yellow C3 is a #2

I think the yellow metolius would be more equivalent to a BD C3 #0.4

[chossmonkey]

No the yellow C3 is a #2

I think the yellow metolius would be more equivalent to a BD C3 #0.4

There is no C3 #0.4. They go #000-#2. Do you mean .04 C4?



A #2 C3 has a range listed as 0.56-0.89"/14.2-22.6 mm.

The .04 C4 has a range listed as 0.61-1.05"/15.5-26.7 mm.

The range for a Yellow #2 Metolius is listed as 0.62 - 0.89”

[Fred]

sorry. Make that standard camalot (C4?) 0.4 me thinks it's silverish. It's the one just smaller than the purple 0.5.

[Murph]

Would there be a decent tri-cam (pink) placement?? Would that work??

[Fred]

I don't trust those things but a pink might work. It's a key piece of gear on a 5.8 ish move followed by a nice bolt right where you want it for the crux. If that piece blows you're hitting a ledge 10ft below.

[*Chris*]

You could always just drive in a new pin... we know that would fit!

[PeterA]

I remember slotting a bomber medium sized nut into that horizontal. That's another option

-PJ

[granite_grrl]

I don't trust those things but a pink might work. It's a key piece of gear on a 5.8 ish move followed by a nice bolt right where you want it for the crux. If that piece blows you're hitting a ledge 10ft below.

A pink tricam is pretty close to the same size as a yellow TCU.

But while I love tri-cams, I have to agree with Fred, I don't usually trust one in a vertical crack. They can be kinda tricky to set in that situation.

[Fred]

it's a horizontal crack

[Burley]

Ryan,

Come out with me one day this spring, we can rap in and I'll show you how I would place the cams and you can lead it. Just be aware of what will happen if you fall above the gear while clipping that bolt. It'll take two cams and I would suggest using two.

I recall a yellow alien and 0.5BD going in there. Yellow Alien would similar to a 0.4 BD.

[granite_grrl]

it's a horizontal crack

Then I don't agree with you Fred.

Tri-cams are normally bomber in horizontals.

[Adam]

i still have that pin at home

i place a yellow and orange tcu in there now i think. the move past there isn't hard, but last time i led it, i had one of those momentary lapses of concentration and leaned back a little far and almost whipped. if those cams weren't there i'd have been in BAD shape had i fallen.

if you can place two pieces do it. and yeah, a pink tricam would be bomber in there i think. just don't fall on it or you'll never get it out

[Annie]

As long as Ryan gets out successfully, the tri cam can stay there

[Murph]

..I picked up a Pink & Red Tri-cam along with a #2 Yellow C3. I will likely rap down and place the gear before I lead it.
Burley... I'd appreciate the gear advice...