Post your tick list for 2009

[mick]

Post up your tick list for 2009 in this thread. Might be fun to revisit it at the end of the year and see how many projects went down...

Land of Confusion
Dynamitus v8
Terminal Velocity v5
Bop Gun v5
Men Are From Mars v6
Think Big v3
Snake Bite v6
Can I Have a Drum Roll v5
Pleasure Dome v3

Dover Island
Bulldog v6
Behave v7
Exciter v7

Chebucto Head
Slash dyno v2

Porcupine fortress
Dracula's big adventure v2

Bully wall
Proud unnamed highball v7

(I just listed boulders for now, maybe I'll add routes later)

[Murph]

I'm going to send John Doe V4 next time I'm at Dover Island. I've been trying this problem for the past 3 years with no success. I think I'm going to throw the car keys up on top so that I can't leave without sending. Also, I hope to break into 5.11's by the end of the summer (sport) and get a bunch of traffic leading easy trad routes. I can see myself having more fun leading 5.4 trad than 5.11a sport.

[Rosie]

I want to redpoint all the 10s at sunnyside that I haven't yet done... Quantum Theory (just waiting for the weather on that one!), All Hail, Entanglement, Smells like rain tastes like chicken... etc

In St.Andrews I want to get the grotto and forest dump (both 11a). In welsford I want to get most unprecedented and d-day on upper tier, and try Joint Venture. I also want to do more trad - so this summer I'll be aiming for Ejaculator (5.7), salt and pepper, dash, etc. I can't wait for spring!!

[*Chris*]

Weeping Whisker
Waterfall Layback
Warm & Sultry
The New Standard (@ RRM)
Victory Cabbage
Leviathan
Odin

That's all that comes to mind. After Weeping Whisker everything else is just gravy. I also want to improve on my photography... but that's going to be hard considering my current set-up involves a pin-hole pricked into an old shoebox.

[Burley]

I have three major goals for 2009 - trad or sport:

Goal #1 - flash 11a a few times and redpoint/pinkpoint consistently
Goal #2 - get up 12a or two on lead
Goal #3 – onsight 10’s consistently (could be consistently 50% and I’ll be happy)

I’ve been on all of these routes with the exception of two which will be flash attempts on the right day.

Cochrane Lane:
Biohazard - get it clean
Stratfactor - get to the top of pitch 2 on lead without aid
Granite Planet - get to the top by any means required while on the sharp end - pitch 1
Pink Panther - clean
Gumby - get up it on lead
Sticky Fingers - Clean
Flight of the Valkaries (sp?) - get up it on lead
Bone Machine - Clean

Sunnyside:
Solaris - clean
Drizzle - clean
Victory Cabbage - clean

Greenlaw:
Scurvy - clean
Forest Dump – clean
Indians – clean

I hope to push it in red rocks this winter, but don't expect to see a personal best until the spring/summer. We'll see how this Vegan diet I started today helps with my fighting weight - oh I freaking love eating and hunting for meat!

[martha]

Hmm.. well, given that I won't be knocked up this summer I guess I should put my tick list together too.. at least for some motivation!

1. I'd like to first of all, get comfortable on lead again since it has been over a year!

2. I'm with Rosie, I'd like to lead the rest of the 5.10's in Sunnyside that I haven't yet... at least the ones that aren't scary. LOL.. and maybe do Dihelio too. That is a sweet fun route. (though I know I"ll be too scared of falling - But hey... it is a goal right?!)

3. I'd like to get back on my trad game and lead up to 5.7/5.8 so that I can have 'some' fun when Fred and I go to J-tree next fall.

4. (perhaps not *MY* ticklist..) but I'd like to take the kids to Dover Island and get Marie-France doing some bouldering and some rope climbing in Welsford too. Maybe she can send the lookout. She'll only be three and a half in the summer... so I think that is pretty reasonable!

5. I'd like to get 'Blood Boil 12.c?' in St. Andrews in one go on TR. I've done all the parts, linked them and even flew through the crux, but fell at the top.. grr. so yeah, woo.

6. If I'm really on my game, I want to lead Montezumas Revenge. I've done that route so many times on TR I can do it in my sleep, .. everytime I've gotten my lead HEAD in the right place to lead it I've gone and gotten pregnant again! ha!

7. I've never led Sleeping Beauty or joint venture, not sure why, so I need to do that too. These two will likely happen early in the season if I'm feeling good.

That seems to be plenty for now! And probably more than I can realistically get in shape for given the number of weekends with good weather and people to help watch the kiddos!

[Rosie]

Yeah Sleeping Beauty! I forgot about that!

I've never gotten it clean on TR though.. that slabby bit at the top confuses me...

[Murph]

Sleeping Beauty was on my tick list for 08' but never did get back on it.... I'll add that to the 09' list

[martha]

Yeah Sleeping Beauty! I forgot about that!

I've never gotten it clean on TR though.. that slabby bit at the top confuses me...

Yeah, it took me YEARS to figure it out, especially at my height. Finally I got it a couple of years ago..I think you were there that day. Thankfully the bolt is nice and close for that move.

[Matt Peck]

09ticks

Redpoint
D'accord Nouveau at Bear Mtn.
Inhuman Erazer at Minkey wall
Human Erazer at Minkey Wall
Evolution on Upper Tier
Gumby's Roof

Onsight
Telefunkin U47 on Joes Garage
Bone Machine on Joes
All the hard 11's in Kamou I haven't been on
Directissima 5.9 in the Gunks

Lead the 5 wall at Grand Falls
Lead Courneille WI 5 in the Gaspe (yeah right)
Lead the Cilley-Barber Route WI4+ IV on Katahdin
Lead Dropline WI5 in Frankenstein, NC

Probably into '10 for those last.

[granite_grrl]

09ticks

Redpoint
D'accord Nouveau at Bear Mtn.
Inhuman Erazer at Minkey wall
Human Erazer at Minkey Wall
Evolution on Upper Tier
Gumby's Roof

Onsight
Telefunkin U47 on Joes Garage
Bone Machine on Joes
All the hard 11's in Kamou I haven't been on
Directissima 5.9 in the Gunks

Lead the 5 wall at Grand Falls
Lead Courneille WI 5 in the Gaspe (yeah right)
Lead the Cilley-Barber Route WI4+ IV on Katahdin
Lead Dropline WI5 in Frankenstein, NC

Probably into '10 for those last.

One of the best routes I've done there. Ironically, the highlight is the 5.6 up to the High E ledge, but the climbing up to that point is exciting too.

I've got a tick list, but it wouldn't mean much if you don't know the climbs in Ontario. The one climb at the Red I've got to get back and send is Different Strokes.

[Scooter]

I am trying bringing the ruckus this year:

Kleos v11
Overdrive v10
Last Chance (and the linkup) v12?
Grizzly v12
Papa Bear v11
Fine Line v12?
Trespassers Will v10
Old Soul v10
VIP v?

If I can get 3 out of the above I will be stoked.

[*Chris*]

Weeping Whisker
Waterfall Layback
Warm & Sultry
The New Standard (@ RRM)
Victory Cabbage
Leviathan
Odin

That's all that comes to mind. After Weeping Whisker everything else is just gravy. I also want to improve on my photography... but that's going to be hard considering my current set-up involves a pin-hole pricked into an old shoebox.

How did everybody do on their lists?

I consider 2009 a good year. Injury free, lead far more pitches than I followed, and much improved confidence above my gear. I feel as if I have not yet hit my climbing plateau and will improve as I move into my 30's next year (eep).

I got everything which I attempted on my list... but sadly I didn't a chance at everything. Waterfall layback was never dry and finding a belay for Odin was the crux. I also did some fantastic pitches that weren't on my list. I'll have to think about my goals for next year but I got off to a fun start aiding/mountaineering up the cave/reindeerland in yesterday's snow.

[martha]

I didn't get anything on my list. I didn't get out enough this summer to get 'comfortable' on lead again. With building the house and all, I just didn't have much climbing season. I did lead some stuff, and on sight some new routes too, but no pushing of limits.

I will put my same tick list up for 2010. LOL. we'll see. Honestly though, I think my goal these days is to get out, have fun and to take the kids out climbing as much as possible too. To me, it is going to be more about family time than hard core climbing time.

Fred and I do want to do a couple of trips. We've got J-tree planned for the fall, and I hope to get to BC to visit Laurie in the spring if I can find a good seat sale.

Fun is my new name of the game...oh yeah, and finding shoes that don't kill my feet. I don't know if my feet are a different shape after having kids, or if i'm just getting soft... but yowsa my shoes hurt. I'm going back to 5.10 for sure cause the rubber rocks.

[granite_grrl]

Fun is my new name of the game...oh yeah, and finding shoes that don't kill my feet. I don't know if my feet are a different shape after having kids, or if i'm just getting soft... but yowsa my shoes hurt. I'm going back to 5.10 for sure cause the rubber rocks.

Might be just 'cause you're not wearing your shoes as much. Shoes need to break into your feet, but even more important are your feet breaking into your shoes.

There are shoes I wore before the break from my accident that I can't wear anymore. I've tried, but the breaking in process is too much for me to handle again. Instead, I just bought larger, better fitting shoes.

[Rosie]

Well, considering that I hardly climbed at all last summer I accomplished a surprising number of my goals... I didn't get on all the 10s at sunnyside, but I did red point Awe, and onsighted Smells like Rain, Tastes like Chicken. I also led Forest Dump down in St.a, but I was a long way from getting it clean! I did a fair number of trad leads as well, but focused more on getting comfortable at the lower grades than on pushing my limits.

I don't know how much climbing I'll have time for this spring/summer, where we'll be building a house, so my goals for 2010 are to get out occasionally, have fun, and not revert to a total chicken.

[martha]

Rosie, it sounds like you and I will make perfect climbing partners.

[martha]

Fun is my new name of the game...oh yeah, and finding shoes that don't kill my feet. I don't know if my feet are a different shape after having kids, or if i'm just getting soft... but yowsa my shoes hurt. I'm going back to 5.10 for sure cause the rubber rocks.

Might be just 'cause you're not wearing your shoes as much. Shoes need to break into your feet, but even more important are your feet breaking into your shoes.

There are shoes I wore before the break from my accident that I can't wear anymore. I've tried, but the breaking in process is too much for me to handle again. Instead, I just bought larger, better fitting shoes.

I also considered this, but there was a stretch that between the woody and actually getting out climbing I was in my shoes pretty well every other day for a good 2 weeks ish and they still KILLED my feet. And, the shoes fit fine after I had Marie-France and I wasn't climbing a huge amount then either, though, more than now... however, after having Maxime... well..... bah.. I need a different pair! I'm climbing now in a pair of Sapphire re-soles that are older than my kids! VERY comfy! LOL

[Murph]

I'm going to send John Doe V4 next time I'm at Dover Island. I've been trying this problem for the past 3 years with no success. I think I'm going to throw the car keys up on top so that I can't leave without sending. Also, I hope to break into 5.11's by the end of the summer (sport) and get a bunch of traffic leading easy trad routes. I can see myself having more fun leading 5.4 trad than 5.11a sport.

I never did make it back to Dover as I moved to Ontario in the middle of the climbing season. Also, I didn’t break into the 11’s but I did manage to lead 5.10d, which is close enough for me.

Sleeping Beauty was on my tick list for 08' but never did get back on it.... I'll add that to the 09' list

Managed to “French free” sleeping beauty, utilizing a “nylon jug” at the top


Looking back at my ‘09 Ontario climbing season, I am quite happy. During August to October, I traveled 4 hours (one way) to climb on the weekends and got out several times. I got to meet some cool Ontario climbers and (almost) had my first epic climbing adventure. After moving to Wawa mid October, I have found a bunch of small cliffs and boulders to climb. I have been cleaning one small area (which I named “Black Trout Rock”) with a few climbs ranging 5.5 to maybe 5.11+. A friend and I managed to claim a late November first ascent (TR) of “It’s a life away 5.5” and “The Mustard Tiger 5.10” with FFA’s coming in the spring. I also discovered a 30 foot, 45 degree overhanging wall which is yet to be climbed. As well, I have come across a number of boulders (30 or so projects) which are all within a ½ hr hike from my apartment.

My tick list for 2010 is ginormous. Outside the stuff I plan to do in Wawa, there are lots more areas I’ve yet to visit. Plenty of stuff to keep me busy for a while.

[Leehammer]

Martha,

my preggo wife says that feet increasing in size permanently due to pregnancy is not uncommon...

[*Chris*]

Hey Murph!
Glad to hear you've got new rock buddy! 'The Mustard Tiger 5.10'... awesome. I want your next FFA to be either 'The Green Bastard' or 'Phil Collin's Gut'!

[*Chris*]

Bad Guy? Seriously? I've never complained about moderating on this site but I had more colourful conversations on the playground in grade school.

Hey Murph!
Glad to hear you've got new rock buddy! 'The Mustard Tiger 5.10'... awesome. I want your next FFA to be either 'The Green bad guy' or 'Phil Collin's Gut'!

[Murph]

'The Green bad guy'

I'm not a bad guy, why would you go and say a thing like that....