Leashes?

[Stan]

We are well into December now and there should be some climbable ice around pretty soon.
I'm thinking of getting a pair of decent leashes for ice tools - choosing between BD Androids and Grivel Tech. Androids are nice, but I'm curious about Grivels too. The latter are cheaper as well - could get like 10 lbs of cookies for the price difference. Has anybody tried them?

[Matt Peck]

Why don't you just save your money Stan, and go leashless?

[Stan]

I don't mind doing short stuff leashless, but on longer routes I'd prefer to have an alternative

[chossmonkey]

I've never actually used leashes so I can't answer your question but I second the idea of ditching the leashes. If you are worried about dropping a tool you can make or buy tethers for your tools. Supposedly they aren't to bad to climb with.

NEice might be a good place to ask about the leashes.

[mathieu]

Unless you climb regulary at a gym or ice climbs lots, ditching the leashes is a sure way to find yourself getting a good pump. I find myself that I don't have the stamina to do long pitches leashless. Dropping the tools is not one of my concern its mostly the tools dropping me.

Mat

[*Chris*]

What I want to know is if you would really buy 10lbs of cookies?

[Stan]

What I want to know is if you would really buy 10lbs of cookies?

Nah, I switched to ice cream instead
That's the primary reason why I'm hesitant about going leashless all the way.
Being realistic, if both feet and one axe blow on a steep and pumpy section, I'd be inclined to have backup means to stay attached to the route rather than solely rely on the <compromised by then> grip strength.

[STeveA]

I have tried many leashes over the years and I still prefer a simple 1" webbing loop. Stick your hands into the loop and twist it a few times until tight. Simple, cheap and easy to get in and out of. The second best was the Grivel leashes that can clip on and off the axe.

[Burley]

Chris,

The question for Stan isn't if he would buy 10lbs of cookies, but rather when he buys his next 10lb box would it take Stan 3 days or just 2 days to finish them off?

FYI... Stan loves cookies... seriously... he is the Siberian cookie monster!

[granite_grrl]

I have tried many leashes over the years and I still prefer a simple 1" webbing loop. Stick your hands into the loop and twist it a few times until tight. Simple, cheap and easy to get in and out of. The second best was the Grivel leashes that can clip on and off the axe.

I'd be curious to see your home made leashes. We tried doing that a few years ago and I had to ditch them after a couple of outings. Leashless ever since, yeah baby . But I assume you came up with something a lot better than we did if you still use them.

Personally, I like to climb leashless and think climbing with leashes would be terribly restrictive, but I suppose it's a personal choice.

[mathieu]

There's a sketch that describes a pretty good setup in the monthly Alpine club publication of the Calgary section. Its in one of the back issues, check out http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/calgar ... inook.html. Can't find the specific issue right now, the site seems to be down but it was in the last year or so.

[Shawn B]

Stan i use the bd android detachable one and really like it. Nice and secure plus easy off and on to place screws. Only one unintentional unclipping in over 5 years with them. And that was pilot error. Once you learn how they come unclipped "all by themselves" you shouldn't have an issue with them. Just have to be careful to not leave them attached when on your pack as they are easy to lose. They are expensive though. Steve's 1 inch webbing is much cheaper. Try a few options and buy which you like best is the way to go.

And the leashless sprayers should stop hijacking Stan's thread. He didn't ask if he should go leashless or use leashes. He asked which leash people like. Start your own thread about leashless climbing. I have a whole lot to say about that...surprise...surprise...huh.

[STeveA]

The leash I use is about as simple as you can get. 1" webbing loop tied to the head of the axe. See left axe in picture. However, I have started climbing leashless and it is proving to be easier that with leashes.

[Stan]

Thanks Shawn and Steve,

I tried BD Androids last winter and found them ok. The newer Griver Tech leashes seem to have better cuffs, but I'm not sure how well the attachment system works (it looks weird on the pictures).

Steve, the Grivel leashes you were talking about - is it the new kind, or the older version which clips with a mini-biner?

Probably, I'll try webbing first. My tools are very supportive, so I might be ok without hi-tech leashes, we'll see...

[chossmonkey]

And the leashless sprayers should stop hijacking Stan's thread. He didn't ask if he should go leashless or use leashes. He asked which leash people like. Start your own thread about leashless climbing. I have a whole lot to say about that...surprise...surprise...huh.

Someone needs to take a chill pill.

Going leashless is an option as far as leashes go. If leashes actually worked better than climbing leashless people wouldn't be turning away from them. Many people don't even consider the idea of leashless because leashes have been the status quo for many years or they think it is for high end climbers only. If willing to go through the short learning curve it could save the OP a lot more money if he could climb leashless on his existing tools instead of getting new leashes.

By your reasoning Steve should retract his great idea of webbing leashes since the OP did not ask about homemade leashes. I mean obviously he wants commercially made leashes that clip and unclip. If you really want to get nitpicky it seems the original question was if anyone had used the Grivel leashes, which BTW, you did not answer.

[Fred]

Leashes are for out of shape climbers. I'm bringing mine out of retirement this season.

[Matt Peck]

Boy, we sure are good at guessing tone here on the forum!

[Shawn B]

Glad I could help Stan. You are welcome to try my tools with the bd leash whenever this rollercoaster weather settles out. Joe used to have the old grivel leash with the loop through the shaft and the little clipper. Seemed to work fine for him except the cable that you clipped to ended up breaking.

Chossmonkey...you seem like a really unhappy fella. I feel sorry for ya. I hope you have a very merry Christmas.

[chossmonkey]

Joe used to have the old grivel leash with the loop through the shaft and the little clipper. Seemed to work fine for him except the cable that you clipped to ended up breaking.

The new leashes are different than those. Had you actually looked at/read the whole post you would have known that.





Stan, if you buy the Grivel leashes from MEC you can always return them if they suck and get the Androids. It is a bit of an inconvenience since it doesn't sound like you could visit a store but you would probably only be out the shipping if that. MEC will just resell them at the gear swap and cover their costs.

Chossmonkey...you seem like a really unhappy fella. I feel sorry for ya. I hope you have a very merry Christmas.

Couldn't be happier.

I just like to argue, so if you are going run your mouth/fingers I'll return the favor.

[Fred]

The best leashes are by far the CM Nomics.

[chossmonkey]

The best leashes are by far the CM Nomics.

[Matt Peck]

Ditto Fred. Mine have allready had a bit of a taste this year, and Im stoked for more! Might try out those new thinner picks this year.

[Joe]

I've tended to climb leashless for the past several years, but still rely on leashes on WI5's and up. But last year age caught up with me, and tendonitis resulted from too much leashless climbing. I've been climbing with Grivel Machines for a looong time and always found the removable leash to be secure and easy to use. However one tool broke last winter - head popped off 1/2 way up Mont Morencey - complete metal failure. That kind of put me off of Grivel. So I bought new BD Cobras, and because tendonitis is still present, I bought BD "Lock-Down" leashes to go with them. I haven't used the leashes yet, but playing around with them on my indoor wall seems promising. They are cheap and simple (like most climbers) and easy to get out of when placing screws. Stan, you're welcome to try them sometime - I'll be out most weekends once it freezes, climbing with leashes on my leashless tools... good thing I got thick skin!

[STeveA]

They are cheap and simple and easy

Joe

I think you are getting confused with your old girl friends!

[Joe]

Well, maybe a couple of them should have been on leashs...

[Stan]

Thanks Joe,
I used BD Lockdowns on the clubs' tools for my first season. Found them ok, but there's room to improve. They freeze like hell when they get wet.
Tied webbing through the tool heads, as Steve suggested. Doesn't make that much improvement over Grivel Taakoon's leashless grips from the first glance. Have yet to try the setup on real ice though.

[Matt Peck]

Takoons eh? Cool! I've always wanted to try a pair of those. Hey Joe! I'll let you take my nomics for a spin If I can test drive those cobra's some day? The new design is a totally different tool. They look pretty sweet!

[granite_grrl]

Joe, what kind of tendonitis do you have? Wrist? I guess I've never heard of anyone getting it from climbing leashless before, but we also don't have a very big circle of people who ice climb/drytool either.

[Joe]

Classic tennis elbow - I expect it'll be more common with the increase in leashless climbing.

Matt, you can play with my tool any time you want.

[Adam]

Matt, you can play with my tool any time you want.

Apparently ice climbers like to swing more than just ice tools.