by gwa » Mon Oct 13, 2008 5:42 pm
Hey,
I recently decided to buy an autoblocking belay device. From what I've seen first hand I chose the ATC Guide.
I believe there is a design flaw with the placement of the wire on the Petzl Reverso. I have seen two devices with the plastic coating worn off the wire from rappelling on the smooth side after one summer's use. The location of the reverso's wire and the fact that it is more flexible than the ATC Guide's wire allows it to be deformed and pinched by the ropes when rapping on the smooth side. This problem doesn't occur when rapping on the teeth side since the wire attaches farther back on the device.
My friends showed the devices to a Petzl Representative we met at Smith Rock. The Petzl Rep was surprised and could only suggest that from now on they should rapp on the teeth side.
Since thick ropes run better on the smooth side I prefer to have the option of which side I rapp with.
The ATC-Guide has worked beautifully for me whether I'm belaying from the ground or belaying the second. Sure its a bit chunky looking but it's bomber.
Graham