OFFICIAL INFO on Bear mountain

[PeterA]

Alright, we figured this post was needed.

Name:Bear mtn.

Directions:
From the Welsford Irving:

Head West down the 101.

Follow the 101 for roughly 10 KM or so. A little while after Queen's Ridge Rd turn left onto an unnamed road, usually marked with flagging tape around a pole. This road will quickly turn to dirt. Follow the road for another 5 minutes or so, passing a compost area on your right. At the end of the compost area turn right
and drive past a small 'lake' , then turn left onto a bit rougher of a road. After another 5-10 min you will come to the top of a hill. The pullout and trailhead are on your right. The trail should be marked with flagging tape. Follow this trail for an easy 10 min to the top of the cliff.

It is easily possible to drive a car to the trailhead, although the road may be quite muddy after rains.

If you drive past the pullout and go down the hill you will circle around and be able to see the cliff on your right.

This cliff is popular with the local paragliders. If you're lucky, you may get to watch them launch. Also, there is a port-o-potty at the top of the cliff. From the top of the cliff, walk straight back into the woods, but not too far. There is a green port-o-potty somewhere in there. It usually has toilet paper. There is also a picnic table at the top of the cliff, but it has no side to side support, so be careful.

As with any guidebook no guarantees on the accuracy of info, and many routes have not seen a lot of ascents so grades are mostly estimates right now. After cleaning and holds breaking off routes may be more or less difficult than listed.

Guide:
Routes listed left to right
2nd tier
To reach this cliff, walk to the left side of the cliff (climbers left) from the top of the cliff. Look for a trail marked with flagging tape. Follow this down for a very short time. It will lead you down and around to Tomorro'clock crack and the start of the second tier.

Tomorro'clock crack 5.9 PG 25'/N/T
FA:J.Adamson, P.Adamson July 2008
FFA:J.Adamson, P.Adamson July 2008
At the far left of the 2nd tier, this is the first crack you come across as you hike in from the top. Easy moves on good holds gain a left trending thin crack, which quickly widens and cuts back right.

My 3 Friends 5.8 G 25'/N/T
FA:P.Adamson, J.Adamson July 2008
FFA:P.Adamson, J.Adamson July 2008
Far left of 2nd tier, second crack found hiking down from the top. Good fist crack trends right before swooping back left as you pull over the bulge. Bring 2 #3 camalots.

Santa's Nightmare 5.9 PG 25'/N/T
FA:P.Adamson, J.Adamson, C.Hall, D.Morton July 2008
FFA:P.Adamson, J.Adamson, C.Hall, D.Morton July 2008
Left side of 2nd tier, Just right of My 3 Friends. Climb a large flaring chimney. Pull up on a hanging block and climb tight moves to the top. Can feel harder than the grade depending on your approach. Sling the small tree at the top as a directional for the second, then traverse left to the same tree anchor as My 3 Friends and tomorro'clock crack

Adamson Project 5.12? 25'/TR/B(2)
FA: J.Adamson, P.Adamson
FFA:Project
30' left of the large roof on the 2nd tier and 5' left of a large solution pocket about 10' off the ground. Climb a left facing, slightly overhanging corner, then climb straight up over the bulge at the top. Shorter climbers will be in trouble.

Scarred For Life 5.11 PG 30'/N/N
FA:J.Adamson, P.Adamson July 2008
FFA:J.Adamson, P.Adamson July 2008
Start under the large roof. On the left wall is an obvious horizontal crack. Traverse this crack to gain a ledge around the corner. Go straight up through a fist crack you can just barely reach from the ledge. Another tough one for the short climber.

Locksmith 5.6 PG 30'/N/R(2)
FA:M.Peck, J.Cory, D.Morton, P.Adamson July 2008
FFA:M.Peck, J.Cory, D.Morton, P,Adamson July 2008
On the right side of the large roof is an obvious gully. Climb the gully to the top and then squeeze through the boulders on the inside for the true finish. Larger climbers may wish to climb out and over the boulders, athough the grade is unknown for this way.

Fully Body Rock Rash 5.11d G 30'/M(4)/R(2)
FA:S.Adamson, P.Adamson, M.Peck, D.Morton
FFA:Project
This route is found on the wall right of the large roof, split with several vertical cracks. Start up the corner beneath the twin cracks. When you reach the overhang traverse out left, clipping a bolt underneath the overhang. Pull over the overhang onto the flake/crack above. Med-Large pro needed for the upper section of the crack.

Boulders
Back from the second cliff, beneath the large roof are 2 boulders with routes ranging from v0-vReallyhard. Have at em!

Lower tier (Main cliff)
There are many ways to reach this cliff. From the approach trail to bald mountain, as you near the cliff, look left into the woods for orange flagging tape around a tree. Break left off the trail here. The first 20' of the trail is a little hard to follow, but becomes obvious after that. Follow this until the end and it will deposit you at the far right end of the main cliff.

Alternatively, from the (climber's) right most boulder at the second tier, walk straight back. There will be a slab leading to the edge of the cliff. At the top of the slab is a very easy and safe to get to rap station. Don't worry, it is fine to pull the rope off of as well. This rap station will take you all the way to the bottom of the main cliff, just to left of the access gully.

As a third alternative, to the right of the rap station is a fixed static line that you can hand over hand down the access gully if you don't feel like rapping. As of right now you have to downsolo the last 15' of the access gully if you choose this method.

As a fourth alternative, walk to the left of the second tier, then bushwack on a very faint trail back through the woods and around to the bottom of the main cliff. This is probably the hardest approach to the main cliff and it is easy to get lost on. The other methods are more recommended.

Routes listed from Left to right:


My Other Woman Is A Handcrack 5.6 G 20'/N/R(2)
FA:P.Adamson, M.Peck July 2008
FFA:P.Adamson, M.Peck July 2008
Near, but not quite at the farthest left wall of the main cliff is a sort of lightning bolt crack on the left wall of a right-facing corner beneath a small roof. Start on a large ledge about 5' up. Will be extremely nice after some more cleaning.

Access Gully 5.1 PG/R? 50'/N/T
FA:S.Adamson, D.Morton July 2008
FFA:S.Adamson, D.Morton July 2008
Just left of an obvious large, wide roof and just to the right of the rappel line is a gully at the top of a large mound of dirt. 15' up there is a static line to hand over hand up if you wish. This route was solo'd, so the pro is uncertain, although the static line can easily be used as protection if you so wish. A good method for getting to the top of the cliff. Still a bit loose and dirty.

Shake and Break 5.9 X 40'/TR/T
FA:P.Adamson, J.Adamson, S.Adamson
FFA:TR only
This route is X rated whether you do it on toprope or lead. Climb up the first 15' of the access gully, then break right to end up underneath the left side of the roof. Pull out from underneath the overhang onto the extremely aesthetic flake and continue to the top. The solidness of the flake is somewhat less than confidence inspiring, but it hasn't failed us yet. Make sure your belayer (and anyone else) is off the side, helmets might be good.

Open Project 5.12? 90'/TR/B(2)
FA:J.Adamson, P.Adamson July 2008
FFA:Project
20' right of access gully. Start somewhere underneath the middle of the large roof. Traverse up and right through broken rock until you can gain the corner below the right side of the roof. Climb the corner, then up over the bulge to a 1.5 bolt anchor. The anchor is below the edge of the cliff, and not equipped for rapping yet, so setting up and cleaning the anchor is a little tricky. Also one of the bolts is poorly placed with the hanger not quite sitting properly on the bolt, we will fix this soon enough.

Open Project Direct 5.12/13? 70'/TR/B(2)
FA:Project
FFA:Project
Instead of traversing into the corner, start directly below it and go straight up.

Assimilation 5.11d 60'/TR/T
FA:P.Adamson, J.Adamson, S.Adamson
FFA:TR only (atm)
Start on a blank, high angle slab near the middle of the main wall. At the top of the cliff, there are two blocks that stick out which have a crack running right between them. This climb is about 10-15' left of these blocks. Climb up through a series of horizontals and overlaps. We have held off on bolting this one as a key hold near the crux seems like it will break off soon and we would like to see what it leaves behind before we put bolts into the route.

Neopolitan 5.10a 60'/M(5)/R(2)
FA:P.Adamson, S.Adamson, C.Hall, D.Morton
FFA:P.Adamson, S.Adamson, C.Hall, D.Morton
Start 10' right of assimilation, right below the two overhanging blocks at the top. Climb past the 1'st bolt and place a cam (very much optional) in the horizontal. Go past a lone chickenhad and another bolt. Traverse left at the 3rd bolt and continue up past more bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
Toprope Variation 5.11c: From the horizontal, go slightly left up sloping crimps directly under horn and past flake

Face the pockets 5.10c 50'/S(5)/R(2)
FA:P.Adamson, S.Adamson, J.Adamson July 2008
FFA:P.Adamson, S.Adamson, C.Hall July 2008
Near the right end of the cliff is an obvious corner with a very wide crack in it. Follow it up, then traverse left to the roof and then straight up to the top. The first bolt is currently hangerless, so use a stopper or put your own hanger on it.

Toad in the hole 5.10c 50'/M(4)/R(2)
FA:M.Peck, J.Garth, P.Adamson July 2008
FFA:M.Peck, J.Garth, P.Adamson July 2008
20' right of Face the Pockets is an obvious hueco at head height. Start here and follow the bolts up. Small-med pro between first and second bolt, and pro at the top if you want it.

Deception Dike 5.12? 50'/TR/T
FA:P.Adamson, J.Adamson, S.Adamson
FFA:Project
At the far right end of the main wall is a right trending dike which looks like a 5.6. Follow it to trees at the top. The dike becomes very faint at the end. Very nice 10+ or 11ish climbing until the ridiculously hard last move to pull over the top (mono-sloper-sidepull-highstep-hand-foot-match-mantle-dyno anyone?) The first route climbed at Bald Hill. A possible exit may also go out left to a crack.




That's it so far, but there are still many lines that need to be climbed, and still plenty of bolting and cleaning to be done. Get out there.


-PJ

[Matt Peck]

I've got a project on the arrete just left of Toad in the Hole. Bolt anchors.

[Fred]

Nice work guys. I know how much effort goes into this sorta stuff so I'll be the first to say big thanks.

[Adam]

you guys are waaay out of the loop. it's called Cloud Base

[anderfo]

I always thought Beer Mountain would be a nice place to go.

[cory]

Cloud Base seems to make more sense, seing as this is the established name given by the paragliders who "discovered" the place.

Campobello Island hasn't changed names despite being British, then Canadian, then USAmerican, then Canadian soil agian. Then again, Canadians call it Germany, Germans call it Deutchland

[Andrew]

My car's got very stiff suspension and is about 1.5 inches off the ground on the mudflaps and maybe 3-4 inchesthe lowest point on the front.

Would it be advisable to take the car?

[Matt Peck]

you could get in there if you're creative, Andrew. I do it in my Jetta TDI all the time, but she's a first gear trip for the last bit.

[PeterA]

the adamson project between Santa's nightmare and scarred for life

Adamson Project 5.12? 25'/TR/B(2)
FA: J.Adamson, P.Adamson
FFA:Project
30' left of the large roof on the 2nd tier and 5' left of a large solution pocket about 10' off the ground. Climb a left facing, slightly overhanging corner, then climb straight up over the bulge at the top. Shorter climbers will be in trouble.

can be changed to

Aim High 5.12a 25'/S(6)/R(2)
FA: J.Adamson, P.Adamson
FFA:J.Adamson, P.Adamson
30' left of the large roof on the 2nd tier and 5' left of a large solution pocket about 10' off the ground. Climb a left facing, slightly overhanging corner, then climb straight up over the bulge at the top. Shorter climbers will be in trouble.

-PJ

[Fred]

PJ: Is it possible that some routes say B(2) where it should be R(2). I think Aim High is R(2) no? Do you see any others in this list that should be changed?

[PeterA]

Many routes that were just bolt anchors when we put them up have been upgraded to rap anchors since then. I'll go through the list tomorrow and update it a little bit. We've done some new routes too.

-PJ

[PeterA]

Soon we will have a running guidebook on Dad's site, but for now here's some updates

2nd tier

Tomorro'clock crack is now B(2)

My 3 Friends is now B(2)

Santa's Nightmare is now B(2)

Naysayer 5.11b/c G 30'/TR/B(2)
FA:P.Adamson, J.Adamson
FFA:Project
Found on the arete between Locksmith and Full Body Rock Rash. Head straight up the arete to the offwidth to the finger crack at the top. Needs one bolt at the start, which we will put in soon, for the lead.

Stumped 5.10b PG+ 30'/N/B(2)
FA:J.Adamson, A.Dunphey
FFA:Project
Found 2 cracks to the right of Full Body Rock Rash. Start up the thin layback seam, up to a finger crack in a dihedral, and over the crack in the block at the top.

Lower Tier

The Open project to the right of shake and break is R(2). Jon also told me that it has been bolted, but I'm not sure how many bolts there are.

Rocky Road 5.11d/12a 50'/TR/R(2)
FA:P.Adamson, S.Adamson, J.Adamson, G.Bachman
FFA:Project
Found 15' right of Toad in the hole, climb up a series of horizontals and overlaps all the way to the top.

There are a few that I left out. Once we have names and grades for them I'll put them in

-PJ

[JonA]

two corrections.

Tomorroclock crack doesnt have any bolt anchors

And there are rap bolts on that corner project on the lower wall, but I haven't replaced the one that is somewhat poorly placed, it still should be good to go anyway, I've TRed on it.

[john]

I climbed something on the upper tier just left of the large roof. The crack with an overhanging start then finish up the crack in the middle of the ledge. I did not get the top crack clean but did do it on lead protects well. Nice route.