Rhythm Stick

[Greg]

Stacey and I climbed Rhythm Stick at Cochrane Lane today. This is a great crack climb, it protects well and has a few really cool contortionist type moves but I noticed that there is a very loose block about 25 feet up the route. Shawn B. mentioned this to me back in the spring but I didn't remember that until I pulled down on it today and nearly had it pop me in the face. The block is a little less than 2 feet long, 8 inches at the widest point and kind of diamond shaped. On rappel I took a closer look at it and it appears to be wedged in the crack but I tugged on it and it seems like it is ready to go. Should this loose tooth be pulled?

Greg Hughes

[Matt Peck]

That whole climb is a death trap if it's the one Im thinking of. At the right end of the ledge? Just below the left end of the huge chimney boulder? I thought the whole thing was gonna come down. Pro for the first 30' is sus. Blow it.

[Joe]

I climbed it several times this summer while on falcon-watch. It's a solid, decent climb with good gear - Matt is being a bit harsh. Yes, the one block is loose but is easy to avoid. Although I didn't try to pull it out, I had the impression that is was firmly locked in place. It was not something I had a safety concern over. The crux, an awkward move into a small alcove, is well protected. After I got used to that move, I enjoyed doing the route.

[Adam]

i climbed this a few years ago with matt b. the pigeons had been roosting in the alcove in the crack and with the summer heat, my sweat turned their flower to grease... made it much harder than it should have been.

i don't recall there being much danger of loose rock, but make sure your belayer has emptied his bladder before you leave the ground on that one. eh Matt? must say tho... he's the only person who has caught my lead falls while relieving him-or-her-self. yah, i fell when up behind the big boulder. luckily my flaring nut held... somehow i didn't see the jug to my right and was trying some 5.10+ move lol

[mathieu]

I'm surprised you still climbed with me for the rest of that day.

As for that loose rock, I actually do remember it. As Joe said, it seemed to be locked into place. If you start pulling every rock that wiggles, you'd end up removing the left half of Pyramad wall.

[Adam]

well i figured you probably wouldn't need to pee again for at least an hour or two...

[mathieu]

http://www.mnteverest.net/climb14.htm