New Route - Neapolitan 5.10a

[chossmonkey]

BTW, I likely climb way more than you do.

Well that would make you....what...perhaps....my hero. Considering I have been able to climb once in the past 6 weeks that doesn't say much. Even though I've been laid up I have such a rounded lifestyle that I still don't feel the need to fill my time spraying about things which I have no clue about nor which really doesn't involve me and about a place which I have never seen and involving people which I have never met or know nothing about. Maybe you should follow suit. And incase that doesn't spell it out for you, I'll be blunt. Your constant criticism really isn't appreciated here by very many people. If you for once have something positive to contribute and you have some knowledge of the situation to back up that contribution then by all means do so. Until then...

And since I'm sure you will rebut...you may as well answer this question since you didn't before. Oops...what's wrong...no answer??
"And what general rule are you talking about. Name one traditional climbing area in NA that bolts cracks."

Hey, you are the one who asked if I climb. Don't get your panties in bunch. Its funny how you criticize for the possibility of someone not climbing then make excuses for not getting out yourself. Life happens and gets in the way for everyone.


In case you are wondering, we very well could end up in Fredericton it the next couple of years. I have climbed at Welsford and plan on going back in the near future. If I bolt a route in NB it certainly won't be a sport route that needs one piece of gear, unless of course that piece is not really necessary. Maybe I'll bolt right next to a crack, or maybe I'll stick to the "local ethics" and actually put up a trad route, bolting on lead with minimal bolts. I've done the whole (established routes) one piece of necessary gear on a sport route and it is dumb.

Still not reason enough for me butting into "your" thread?

How about I put in a pretty good amount of time helping keep this site running in Fred's vision of how he wants it to be run? I'll admit there isn't a whole lot to do now, but people weren't exactly lining up when Fred needed volunteers to delete mass quantities of spam and bogus users this site would get. I still spend plenty of time on this site and look at most every post to check that things are going the way they should be. Sue me if it bothers you that I post and stir the pot a little in a thread I "have no business in". You might not like it, but others do. I most certainly enjoy it and its my only payment other than a "thanks" from Fred and Cara. Well, maybe dinner cooked by Fred, which hopefully he didn't pee in and a place to stay when we were passing through, but I'd guess they would do that for anyone one who is part of this site who is passing through. I still hold out hope that someday I will be paid with a MOD hat, hand knit buy Cara, but until then and probably after I'll be posting in what ever thread catches my eye.


I feel like your question about bolted cracks is a loaded one. There aren't any "Trad" areas where all the cracks are bolted. The funny thing is they wouldn't be trad areas anymore. There are still plenty of "Trad" areas where there are bolts next to perfectly usable cracks. Generally they are on harder routes, so it is understandable if you haven't seen them. Why should it be limited to hard routes? Should all sport routes only be hard? That's the way it once was. In Yosemite it was a cardinal sin to even rap bolt. Even today there is a big debate about a route on Half Dome that was partially rap bolted.

The short list of "trad" areas with bolts next to cracks:
Yosemite
Devils Tower
Red Rocks
Red River Gorge
Lake Louise
Skaha
Mt. Lemmon
New River Gorge
95% sure Joshua Tree
And for fun, Smith Rock


These areas were all "trad" areas long before sport routes and rap bolting or becoming "Sport Crags". Some have routes that are fully bolted and would safely go on gear. Others just have a bolt or two here and there next to perfectly good cracks or other gear taking features. Some have routes that were lead on gear, ground up with no TR rehearsal and are now sport routes. Some have all three.



If you have any other questions about how the rest of the world or (even Canada) operates feel free to ask.

[chossmonkey]

*** and so a pissing match ensued ***

Cara's last point raises an interesting question. Should 'local ethics' be determined by those who originally established the climbing scene/community/area. Or, ought those ethics to be determined by the active members of the climbing scene/community/area. Luckily, there is considerable overlap in our area making the debate easier; however, choosing the latter certainly leads to a more inclusive process. I certainly don't ever remember being asked for input in defining these unwritten rules. I'll leave it at that though before I derail this thread.

I think Steve answered it earlier.

I still can't bring myself to bolt a perfectly good crack that is accessed from a good stance. Maybe I will have to hire a pure sport climber to come and bolt it for me.

[martha]

I still hold out hope that someday I will be paid with a MOD hat, hand knit buy Cara, but until then and probably after I'll be posting in what ever thread catches my eye.

Oh Choss, I can probably do that much for you. Let my life settle down a bit, and in the fall when you really need it, I'll knit you a MOD hat.

[chossmonkey]

I still hold out hope that someday I will be paid with a MOD hat, hand knit buy Cara, but until then and probably after I'll be posting in what ever thread catches my eye.

Oh Choss, I can probably do that much for you. Let my life settle down a bit, and in the fall when you really need it, I'll knit you a MOD hat.

Sweet!!


But I don't really need it to keep me warm. Its just for when I need to be serious and act grown up, and pretend to be a MOD.

But I could wear it bouldering too I suppose.

[*Chris*]

*** and so a pissing match ensued ***

Cara's last point raises an interesting question. Should 'local ethics' be determined by those who originally established the climbing scene/community/area. Or, ought those ethics to be determined by the active members of the climbing scene/community/area. Luckily, there is considerable overlap in our area making the debate easier; however, choosing the latter certainly leads to a more inclusive process. I certainly don't ever remember being asked for input in defining these unwritten rules. I'll leave it at that though before I derail this thread.

I think Steve answered it earlier.

I still can't bring myself to bolt a perfectly good crack that is accessed from a good stance. Maybe I will have to hire a pure sport climber to come and bolt it for me.

Cool. But it was less of a question and more of a statement. Whatever. I'll just have to go and find my own top-secret cliff.

[martha]

But I could wear it bouldering too I suppose.

What's that?!

[granite_grrl]

I still hold out hope that someday I will be paid with a MOD hat, hand knit buy Cara, but until then and probably after I'll be posting in what ever thread catches my eye.

Oh Choss, I can probably do that much for you. Let my life settle down a bit, and in the fall when you really need it, I'll knit you a MOD hat.

So you'll knit him a hat in say, 18 years, when you finally get the kids to college ? Sweet!

[chossmonkey]

But I could wear it bouldering too I suppose.

What's that?!

http://www.climbeasterncanada.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=4681

[*Chris*]

Hey Adamsons...

Does this look familiar to you. I think I even figured out where you were standing when you took the first photo in this thread. So... it's your move now fellas. Watcha gonna do?

[martha]

nice one Chris!

[Fred]

good job Chris. LOL

Now should you tell them about the cliff you found? hehehe

[STeveA]

Not even close. I was at least 30' away from where you think I was.....

[chossmonkey]

Hey Adamsons...

Does this look familiar to you. I think I even figured out where you were standing when you took the first photo in this thread. So... it's your move now fellas. Watcha gonna do?

It looks like Chris has plans for the weekend.

[STeveA]

Chris

Now that you've caught the car, what are you going to do with it?

[Burley]

I think Chris just likes the chase.

[*Chris*]

Chris

Now that you've caught the car, what are you going to do with it?

I won't let the cat out of the bag just yet. I'm busy with my own little project right now anyway.

[Nihoa]

and so breaks the dam...





if you cant read maps ill make this real easy for you:

at the irving take the 101 east ~8km
turn left onto unknown road
head south ~3km
turn right
head to the end of this road ~2 km

and there you have it

[Adam]

lol... how big are those images?! my browser was sitting for 3 or 4 min still trying to download them....

[Matt Peck]

Hehehe. Vengance is mine, sayeth the bored.

[PeterA]

for those curious we'll be posting a guidebook in a little while on dad's site. Hopefully it will have topos, but it will list our current routes and projects.

-PJ

[Murph]

http://maps.google.com/maps?q=45.47217%2C-66.508334&sourceid=ie7&rls=com.microsoft:en-US&ie=UTF-8&oe=utf8&um=1&sa=N&tab=wl

[Matt Peck]

We can just cut and paste Mark's post Pj.

[STeveA]

There are presently 19 routes on Bald Hill. A couple are projects are being worked, 2 routes are fully bolted and 1 has 1 more bolt to be added. There are several trad routes that were all done ground up so they are still a little dirty but will get better with use, and a few have anchors on top but need to be bolted. We will be completing the bolting as soon as Matt gets some more hangers. The trail to the top of the cliff is very clean and obvious. The trails to the bottom have been cleaned but need some more traffic. There is an outhouse and a picnic table on the top, and a rap station from the middle tier to the lower tier. There is also a fixed rope on most of the exit gully if you want to climb back up. The cliff is shared with a paragliding club so you may meet other people out there and possibly see them flying off the top. There is room for many more climbs but I recommend that you climb some of the present routes to get a feel for the cliff before you start bolting. We are going with stick clips from the ground so the 1st bolt on a route is generally about 10' off the ground. The rock is very sharp so tape is recommended. There are a lot of boulders around with a few routes already established. This could be a good area for boulderers.

[Adam]

dear lord... we don't all have 36" monitors!! can u shrink that? lol

[STeveA]

How is this?

You can also right click on the image and save it on your computer then view in windows.

[STeveA]

Try again

[STeveA]

Middle Tier

[martha]

Oh, that rock looks YUM! can't wait to check it out! Thanks for all the hard work guys!!

[chossmonkey]

dear lord... we don't all have 36" monitors!! can u shrink that? lol

I just deleted it out of the first post since it was reposted smaller. I wanted to change it to being just attached without embedding but I couldn't get it to post that way.


At least now you don't have to scroll sideways to read Steve's post.


Steve, if you feel I could have edited it differently let me know and I'll see what I can do.

[STeveA]

Looks good. People can download or view either the large or small image. By the way they look fine on a 42" screen (Nobody uses a small 36" screen anymore do they).