New Route - Neapolitan 5.10a

[STeveA]

Bolted a new climb today. Neapoliton. It is 5.10a with a 5.9 variation. Also a 5.11 variation that will need an extra bolt. 50' long with 5 bolts and 1 cam placement. Bolted chain anchor.

[david]

Let me be the first to ask... Where is that?

[Matt Peck]

So I see you guys have finally found my cliff. Found that sucker 2 years ago and after comparing notes with PJ today I figured it was the same one. Showed the boys a sweet new trail in that'll make your lives a lot easier, Steve. I look forward to checking it out further with you guys.
It's gonna be sweet!

[Fred]

great. another secret cliff.

[STeveA]

Just think Fred, by the time you find out where it is there will be a bunch of nice new routes for you to try. The count is 5 at present ranging from 5.10 to 5.12. Probably room for about 70 routes.

[Fred]

secret crags are selfish and lame

[Adam]

gaa! i want to go!! take me!!

[STeveA]

If we take you we will have to blindfold you for the drive!!

[Burley]

I won't speak for Adam, but I don't mind a little blindfold action as long as PJ doesn't get any funny ideas!

Steve,
If you need a hand with cleaning or trail work let me know.

[Adam]

as long as i can sit with my back to the wall a blindfold is fine lol

i'm just excited there's another cliff worth developing. it leads one to think that there must be a few more dotted across the province. i refuse to let go of my dream of a 100' overhanging limestone cliff within an hour of fredericton. i climbed on it last night and you all are gonna cream if we ever find it!!

[chossmonkey]

Let me be the first to ask... Where is that?

It thought you were going to ask, "Why forget to put in one bolt on a sport route?"

My second guess would have been, "Why post pictures and spray about new routes on a cliff you don't want people to know about?"

[Burley]

I think Steve is trying to get everyone salivating before the big unveiling...

[chossmonkey]

It sounds like it will be a while if 70 routes go in. Even at half that, with a small crew developing, it could take a few years.

People will probably find it before then. Just knowing there is an undeveloped crag in the area should be enough to get a bunch of people snooping around. Its like blood in the water.

Loose lips sink ships.

[chossmonkey]

I'm just sayin'.

[Adam]

"Why forget to put in one bolt on a sport route?"

agreed.

[PeterA]

It sounds like it will be a while if 70 routes go in. Even at half that, with a small crew developing, it could take a few years.

No worries in that department, we won't be hiding it for nearly that long

-PJ

[Nihoa]

to be blunt, this post feels like a bit of a rude kick to the nuts. i respect peoples right to keep areas under development quiet but why tease us with photos of routes we cant climb?? its secret or its not secret

[Matt Peck]

I guess it's like Burley said, Steve is just trying to get a little hype going so that people will get excited for it. I think the plan is to unveil soon anyway, so no worries for everyone on that front. I think the plan is just to get the trails all in and clean everything up for everyone. Also, I think it'd be good for there to be some toprope anchors for people to climb on, as there aren't always an abundance of trees to use. Speaking for myself, Im not trying to piss anyone off.

[Adam]

to be blunt, this post feels like a bit of a rude kick to the nuts. i respect peoples right to keep areas under development quiet but why tease us with photos of routes we cant climb?? its secret or its not secret

precisely so people will make posts like this. good on ya Steve. stir the pot lol

[Adam]

Bolted a new climb today. Neapoliton. It is 5.10a with a 5.9 variation. Also a 5.11 variation that will need an extra bolt. 50' long with 5 bolts and 1 cam placement. Bolted chain anchor.

are those some overlapping roofs on the right hand side of the cliff?

[PeterA]

Bolted a new climb today. Neapoliton. It is 5.10a with a 5.9 variation. Also a 5.11 variation that will need an extra bolt. 50' long with 5 bolts and 1 cam placement. Bolted chain anchor.

are those some overlapping roofs on the right hand side of the cliff?

The lower one is about a 5 foot roof, the upper one is more of a flake sorta thingy

-PJ

[Nihoa]

precisely so people will make posts like this. good on ya Steve. stir the pot lol

there isnt anything stir the pot about it, its just plain rub in your face cheeky. for stir the pot check out burleys posts

[Fred]

it's not really stirring the pot...

it's more like peeing in the soop and serving it to everyone.

[STeveA]

"Why forget to put in one bolt on a sport route?"

agreed.

Who said anything about forgetting to put a bolt in. The crack is very big and easy to place a cam into. You are also at a good stance so it is not a difficult placement. The cliff has / will have trad climbs as well as well as sport climbs so expect to bring a rack of gear when you come. Oh, I forgot you don't know where it is.

Fred; I am going to pass on the soup in your house.

Just to get people looking, I know of 4 undeveloped cliffs in New Brunswick. None of them are 100' overhanging limestone, but you never know.

[Burley]

Mark,
Yeah I stir the pot on occasion, but only on topics that are important to me... usually

Steve,
I think it is wicked. Looking forward to getting there.

Who doesn't want more rock to climb?

[Adam]

there isnt anything stir the pot about it, its just plain rub in your face cheeky. for stir the pot check out burleys posts

details details

[Adam]

Who said anything about forgetting to put a bolt in. The crack is very big and easy to place a cam into. You are also at a good stance so it is not a difficult placement. The cliff has / will have trad climbs as well as well as sport climbs so expect to bring a rack of gear when you come. Oh, I forgot you don't know where it is.

i guess my point was that if it just takes one piece of gear, friggin put a bolt in. not a matter of ease of placing. people have started up routes in cochrane lane with just quickdraws b/c they see one bolt, let alone a route of 5 bolts. i can guarantee someone will head up that route w/o any pieces and will be unpleasantly surprised at that section. granted there will be both trad and sport at this crag, but it just doesn't make sense in my mind. you'd have to bring a few cams/nuts just to be sure you have the right piece. i guess it's a good reason to have an expando cam (link cam)... just my 2cents

None of them are 100' overhanging limestone, but you never know.

/sheds a tear

[STeveA]

i guess my point was that if it just takes one piece of gear, friggin put a bolt in. not a matter of ease of placing. people have started up routes in cochrane lane with just quickdraws b/c they see one bolt, let alone a route of 5 bolts. i can guarantee someone will head up that route w/o any pieces and will be unpleasantly surprised at that section.

I still can't bring myself to bolt a perfectly good crack that is accessed from a good stance. Maybe I will have to hire a pure sport climber to come and bolt it for me.

[PeterA]

i can guarantee someone will head up that route w/o any pieces and will be unpleasantly surprised at that section.

When you see the climb, you'll change your mind. The piece comes at most 4 feet above the first bolt. It's also on fairly easy ground. One move after the piece you get to another bolt. Really, the piece isn't required, it's optional. Also, putting a bolt by the crack would put 3 bolts needlessly close together, so it's cheaper to put an optional piece in instead

-PJ

[Fred]

Fred; I am going to pass on the soup in your house.

Just pass it off as Cara's cooking and I'll never know the difference. hahaha Just kidding. Her cooking isn't that bad.