welsford today

[Fred]

Please tell me someone went out to Welsford today if they weren't working.

If someone has been out fill us in on the conditions. Just curious and anxious to get out on the rock.

[Ulysse]

it kind of hard when there's nobody to climb with

[martha]

Please tell me someone went out to Welsford today if they weren't working.

If someone has been out fill us in on the conditions. Just curious and anxious to get out on the rock.

really? that anxious eh? Why don't you sit tight for 24 hours when you are on your plane to FRANCE to climb in the SOUTH where it is warm and stuff for 2 full weeks!!!

sheesh.....

Now, i'll be in Welsford on Saturday. Anyone know the condition of the trail? Do I need my crampons?!?!

[mathieu]

Anyone know the condition of the trail? Do I need my crampons?!?!

The conditions have gone from bad to worse, the 'shcrund at the bottom of the boulder field has opened up, a few big crevasses can also be found at the bottom of Waterfall wall. You definatly need your crampons for the snow slope leading to the sign in box and I suggest you practice your self arrest technique cause you definaly don't want to slide into that big tree. Get up early and travel fast (see latest MEC catalogue for complete "Fast and Light" wardrobe).

[Fred]

are you suggesting 'alpine start' then? will do

[mathieu]

are you suggesting 'alpine start' then? will do

I recommend the following alpine start schedule which works wonders for us last summer in the bugaboo's.

7AM -->Wake up, Watch everybody leave.
7hr30 --> Get up and put coffee on, start seing people on the Bugaboo Snowpatch spire col.
8hr -->Consider packing, go get food in fridge (snowbank), put 1lbs of bacon on stove
8hr30 -->1lbs of bacon is now cooked, eat and watch the last people cross the col
9AM-->Leave Camp
10AM --> At top of col
11AM --> Start going up route
12hr30--> pass first party
3PM --> Start rapping down with people who left camp at 7am or earlier
6PM --> Get to camp before everybody else on route.

[Fred]

Speaking of that... you made me think of something.

Say I go to France and Zig and I are cruising this easy route and we run into another group. Do you think we should stay behind them or climb past them? And how would you do that? Clip the same bolts?

[mathieu]

You'll be in France man, just clip in they're manky micro nut placement, french free pass them (that's where the name comes from probably) and yell curse word as you chuck on your 4L jug of wine. Seriously thougth I would say: Situation dependant. But you will be in france so don't worry you'll probably be the ones getting passed

[Fred]

perhaps 'french free' means 'free for all'