Location of new routes at St. Andrews?

[Joe]

I'm looking for a little clarification of the new routes on the right end of Chamcook. The guide shows Monkey Business as the furthest rightend climb. Someone please describe the locations of the new climbs (Gusher, Turkey Vulture, Scurvy) as they relate to Monkey Business. Thanks.
BTW, I was pretty impressed with the spot - lots of great climbing in a tight area. Very nicely developed.

[Jamie Simpson]

Hi Joe -

Monkey Business is the obvious crack in the corner (as you know). Scurvy is to the left of MB, Turkey Vulture is immediately right of MB, and Gusher is right of Turkey Vulture. I suggested 10c for Turkey Vulture, but I'd like to get other peoples' opinion on it.

Best,
Jamie

ps - how's that canoe project coming along?

[Fred]

Joe: have you seen this running tab of new routes?

http://www.beta-source.com/homecrag/new ... sford.html

[Adam]

I suggested 10c for Turkey Vulture, but I'd like to get other peoples' opinion on it.

yah 10c is fair. pretty run out route tho i must say. and i wonder why you put that one bolt out of sight above the dihedral, instead of on the left hand wall of the dihedral where it would be visible and easier to clip? it makes for some commitment i must say, making your way up into the corner with the last bolt like 10 feet below u on the slab

fun route tho.

[Fred]

when I led this route with Jon I was up in the dihedral looking at the next bolt way up thinking OMG there's no way that's the next bolt. I came down to the ground to get a cam for the dihedral then climbed back up. When I got there the cam didn't fit. arrggg. So I traversed and started to finish Gusher to get to an anchor on top. But as I started up the big block I spied the hidden bolt so I went back to it. A bolt in the dihedral would certainly be better but if you know it's around the corner it's not terrible.

[Adam]

oh yah once you know where it is it wouldnt' seem nearly as bad. definitely an adventurous route! tricky start.

[Fred]

problem is neither the belayer or climber can see the bolt and unless you read the route description explicitly, you'll be scratching your head when you get up there

[Burley]

I was scared... and I was belaying Adam.

[Jamie Simpson]

Yeah - I was scared too up in that dihedral... it's not bad once you do it, but, yes, it's all about not being able to see the bolt. I'm ok with someone putting in another bolt or changing the location of the bolt above the dihedral... (but no other changes). I don't think I'll be able to get around to putting one in any time soon.

Yep - the first few moves are fun and tricky - best part I think.

Jamie