climbing in Nfld - south coast

[Jamie Simpson]

I'm planning a trip across the south coast of Newfoundland this summer (combination of bicycle and ferry), and would love to devote some time to climbing there. I'm looking for any advice or suggestions on places to go, people to contact. And I'm also looking for someone to join me for a bit of climbing adventure. Hopefully someone to bring a rack so I don't have to on my bike. I'm pretty flexible with timing, and I'm thinking of taking 2-3 weeks for the trip... probably about 4-7 days for the climbing part of it.

I've got a map and I've ordered the Nfld climbing guide. That's a start. And I've seen photos of the phenominal cliffs there.

Jamie

[cory]

you need to talk to Mike Superpants, and Luke Nichols. I'll put you in touch with the latter for local contacts.

[Ina]

Hi, I'm hitting the waters over to NL this week. First up to St Johns for a while, but I'd be interested to join you, for travels, climbing, cycling (do you kayak to?). What time have you got in mind(June/July?/August)..? Where are you starting out?

Cheers,

Kristina

[Jamie Simpson]

Thanks a lot Cory and Kristina!

I'm pretty flexible in terms of timing...

[GregH]

I used to live in Nfld. For several of the years I was there we regularly went to the South Coast for usually 2 weeks at a time. Place called Devil's Bay which is boat ride from one of outports called Francois. Awesome cliff. Clean granite. Splitter cracks. Several routes go the entire height of the cliff (approx 400m) but there are a few single or 2 pitch routes as well. Getting there is very involved but worth it. You have to make your way to Burgeo and from there take one of the coastal ferries from there to Francois. Once in Francois you can hire one of the locals to take you to Devils Bay. You have to completely self sufficient since there is absolutely nothing in the area. If you ask around in Francois someone there can give you the route book for the area with topos. Most belays are bolted. Some of the better routes are:

Batten Down the Hatches - 5.10c A0 (400m)
Leviathan - 5.12a (420m)
Devils Advocate - 5.9+ (55m)
Straight to Hell - 5.10a (55m) - 5 stars
Screech - 5.8 (55m??) - 5 stars
Savage Seas (i think that's what it's called) - 5.10d (55m) - 5 stars

I think there are probably about 100 pitches in total developed on the cliff. Potential for more. Depending on where you camp the approach to the base of the cliff can be fairly involved. If you want more details let me know.

[Joanne]

hey,
I'm living home on the west coast this summer, i've been wanting to find a buddy to do some biking/climbing with around newfoundland... I'm a teacher, so i've got pretty much the whole summer free...
jo

[Jamie Simpson]

Hi Jo -

Send me a note (PM) if you're interested in talking about possibilities... I'm planning for sometime in August.

Best,
Jamie

[peter]

Jamie: Send a Personal Message to "Diamox" and ask if he has any beta/photos. Peter

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