New Greenlaw Route: Flight of the Turkey Vulture, 10c-ish

[Jamie Simpson]

Hi Folks -

I finally got around to leading the new route behind the Chamcook Boulder, in between Monkey Business and Gusher.

The crux was wet, so hard to judge the difficulty rating, but I'm thinking it's likely 5.10c-ish -- but someone else should get on it when dry and let me know what you think... let's say it's unconfirmed for now.

My partner suggested calling it "Wet and Dirty", which has a certain ring to it , but we settled on "Flight of the Turkey Vulture" in honour of seeing a massive turkey vulture in a tree just behind the big boulder after finishing the route. It had a disappointed look in its eye.

anyway - the details: Flight of the Turkey Vulture: 8 bolts, 2 rap rings for anchor; 25m; sport FFA: Jamie Simpson, June 2, 08

(ok - so this is probably too much information, but... near the top there's an awkward move with the bolt a few feet below you... if you commit to climbing up into the dihedral, you'll be rewarded with a good hand hold and a bolt within easy reach... just a little heady because the bolt is out of view until you commit to the slightly awkward move)

[cory]

how bad are the bugs down there? Looking for something to climb this weekend...

[Fred]

sweet! we have 24 new routes already since the new guidebook

[Jamie Simpson]

amazingly there weren't many bugs at all -- my belayer noticed a few, but neither of us used any bug spray, and I didn't get any bites... go figure! Maybe they're just resting up for the weekend on-slaught of climbers : )

Best,
Jamie

[martha]

amazingly there weren't many bugs at all -- my belayer noticed a few, but neither of us used any bug spray, and I didn't get any bites... go figure! Maybe they're just resting up for the weekend on-slaught of climbers : )

Best,
Jamie

We all know that Bugs don't bite hippies. You guys never need bug spray...

[Jamie Simpson]

Cara, are you trying to tell me that I ought to bathe a little more often? Is that what this is all about?

[chossmonkey]

amazingly there weren't many bugs at all -- my belayer noticed a few, but neither of us used any bug spray, and I didn't get any bites... go figure! Maybe they're just resting up for the weekend on-slaught of climbers : )

Best,
Jamie

We all know that Bugs don't bite hippies. You guys never need bug spray...

That would be an awesome route name.

[Nihoa]

that turkey vulture has a nest under the largest of the 3 boulders grouped together below bookends. we flushed it a few times on sunday and it hung around in the dead spruce for a bit

[*Chris*]

I believe we observed the same bird several weeks earlier exhibiting the same behaviour. They're about as charming as finding the cause of that weird smell coming from the parts of your fridge that you haven't explored in a while.

[Joe]

There's a good chance of the chicks not surviving if the adults are kept away from the nest for too long by climbers. Please be considerate and avoid significant disturbance to nesting wildlife... even if they smell like hippies. Thanks.

[Jamie Simpson]

Hmm - I concur. I wonder if there's a way to avoid disturbing the nest? Avoiding the immediate area around the nest perhaps?

By the way, I remember that a couple of years ago it was a big deal to find a nesting turkey vulture, as they have only recently shown up in NB -- confirmation of a nest would be important to birders - but perhaps this has already happened elsewhere?

Jamie

[Adam]

I wonder if there's a way to avoid disturbing the nest? Avoiding the immediate area around the nest perhaps?

last time we were down there we actually redirected the trail to avoid passing right by that boulder -- erick was nice enough to clear out some brush and rearrange some rocks so there's a decent trail right along the cliff.

when you approach the cliff now, the trail leads up and behind the chamcook boulder, and then stays along the edge of the cliff, instead of going around all the boulders. please use this new trail to avoid the nest site, and to minimize erosion.

thanks!

[Nihoa]

being a big clumsy bird with a nest on the ground they start to flush long before you get too close. it was flushing just as the trail started to meet the cliff for us and i doubt there is much chance at all it will stay on the nest while people are on bookend.

[martha]

Perhaps not climbing on the Bookend until the babies are out is a good idea? Your thoughts Joe and Mark... since you two are the experts!

Not that I really care about the birds, ugly stinky things they are... However, we all have to share and live together.... (big group hippie hug everyone!)

[Jamie Simpson]

Including spiders, right Cara? Even spiders need some lovin'.

[martha]

Including spiders, right Cara? Even spiders need some lovin'.

No. the spiders can die. All of them.


Why else would I carry a hex on my harness? You all know I've taken lead falls over those creapy little Buggars...


EEEEKKKKKK!!!!!

Hey, if Turkey Vultures go in the same category as spiders, then just pour some gasoline over them too.... it should take care of them no problem....

[*Chris*]

I'm sure we can find a happy medium somewhere between big group-hippie hugs and hex smashing, gas-pouring annihilation. Besides... the gas would be too expensive and the hexes can be put to better use

[martha]

Oh yeah, Gas is pretty pricy eh. Guess I won't be dropping my potato bugs into a can of gas this summer... it will cost too much. haha. I'll have to opt for Javex... and at least that is environmentally friendly(ier)... hehe.

Better use for hexes? I dunno Chris, I haven't actually used one on a route except as a spider killer in years. But I do like them, especially since they sound so damn cool.

[Joe]

Despite the large numbers of vultures we see flying around, there are only 3 -4 known vulture nests in NB. However they are very sensitive to human disturbance and typically nest in secluded areas, so there are likely more out there. Regardless, this "Bookend" nest is still rare and deserves protection. The chicks are very young now and the adults will abandon if there is too much disturbance. I'd recommend not disturbing the nest for the month of June. The chick will still be in the nest until August, but by July it should be large enough to tolerate some disturbance for a short time. It should fly away during the first week of August. Thanks, Joe.

[Nihoa]

no chicks yet joe, 2 eggs as of last sunday

[Adam]

the nest was in the same place last year so i'm guessing they're not too bothered by the climbing traffic. still, would be to avoid the immediate area.

[Burley]

Yup there was a chick there last year... didn't even seem to mind when an unnamed female climber tried to pee on it!

Oh did we laugh...

Who doesn't love a hissing stinkfest of a bird? I'm sure those ghastly beasts come straight from the bowels of Hell... probably tried to eat the bowels of Hell... hence the ugly bald head.