Peer Pressure

[motanb]

This is a great climb! I tried to get the 1st send last sept but the temps were too high and i was constantly greasing off the crux arete section just before the easy crack to top.

What a great sequence of moves! The way I start the crux section by the bolt is super fun. I'd like to see how others go about it. What do you guys think for a grade? I'm thinking hard 11? 5.11+?

It'll def go this season; who will be the 1st to send? I heard Cory Goodman is training specifically for the send;-)

[Fred]

I'd say it's 5.12a or 5.12b with a Grade No 2 pucker factor.

sweet line indeed. Looking forward to see my master piece get sent but I don't think it will be from me.

[Adam]

maybe you could call it hard 11+ once you know the beta, but since you are (supposed) to grade for the onsight i definitely feel it's solid 5.12... the move through the roof to being situated on the cracks is pretty powerful, but the only way i could manage it was with some delicate footwork to support a big powerful lockoff/reach to the good slot in the vert crack. would be a pretty tough sequence to figure out a vue.

hell, even local superman JBowles missed the onsight, and i didn't think he missed 5.11 onsights lol -- sorry John, i hope no one thinks less of you

[Dom]

Hey I got on this last night and man I had some serious rope drag after the roof!!

I only had 3 pieces before the bolt 60' up and all of them were extended.
I had a short draw on the bolt though.

So for those who have been up on it, any tricks to avoid that crazy rope drag?
Did you get belayed from the bottom of the climb or from the ledge halfway up?
Did you have a long draw on the bolt?

Anyways, I have to get back on it to send it...really cool moves through the roof!

[*Chris*]

1) When I belayed Adam on it I stood at the base. I think he used a 60 cm draw. Don't remember any issues.
2) When you go for the send I'd be interested in taking a few shots if you are o.k with it. Let me know.

[PeterA]

We belayed from the ground. We placed a piece at the start of Snot, then another piece a little ways up snot. We then ran it out until the coffin shaped hold below the roof. Place a piece here, climb out and clip the bolt, then come back and unclip the previous piece. This leaves you with the bolt clipped, and two pieces way low down. We only used a short draw on the bolt. (you can also leave your rack on the coffin shaped hold and climb the rest of the route with two pieces)

-PJ

[Dom]

) When you go for the send I'd be interested in taking a few shots if you are o.k with it. Let me know.

For sure!

We belayed from the ground. We placed a piece at the start of Snot, then another piece a little ways up snot. We then ran it out until the coffin shaped hold below the roof. Place a piece here, climb out and clip the bolt, then come back and unclip the previous piece. This leaves you with the bolt clipped, and two pieces way low down. We only used a short draw on the bolt. (you can also leave your rack on the coffin shaped hold and climb the rest of the route with two pieces)

-PJ

That sounds like pretty much what I did except that I climbed Sinus and not Snot to get to PP
I had three pieces way low and not 2 Anyways, next time I'm extending all of them with a 120cm sling.

[PeterA]

That sounds like pretty much what I did except that I climbed Sinus and not Snot to get to PP

Peer pressure is only 5.9 if you don't traverse around the nose.

It sounds like you had the right gear setup to mitigate rope drag. With 120cm you should be fine