Grand Falls info

[Joe]

Hey Fred, I'm still a bit confused about Grand Falls. I think Chuck and I led the lines on "7" and "8" of your topo, but checking out the photos you sent in last year on Jan 10 (http://www.geocities.com/kennedy_joe/20 ... ons04.html), we climbed the routes in your photo "001". So whats the story? Are the routes in this photo #1&2 in your topo, or #7&8? Regarding the grades, we thought they were in the 4+ range (but my memory is a bit foggy from that day!). And what do you think about naming these routes? I've heard that Maine climbers have been going to Grand Falls for years. Although there is no good documented history, I feel a bit uncomfortable claiming first ascents. On the other hand, I recognize that numbers just ain't going to cut it, and we need unique names for recognizing individual routes. I propose we go ahead and stick names on routes, but I for one will not claim "first ascent" on anything I climb in grand Falls.

[Fred]

I agree. It's impossible to know who climbed what and when but names would be good.

The photos are not numbered as the they are on the topo. That is 001, is not climb no.1

photo 001 is climb #7 and #8 in the topo but that area is huge and can probably have way more routes than just two. It's pretty general. Whatever you guys can think of for a name is fine by me.

photo 002 and 003 are a new pillar that was there last year. I don't know if this forms every year but it wasn't there the year before. Found just left of #3 on the topo. Up through the right side of the rock showing #11

photo 004 shows line #1 on the left and line #2 on the right. Dave Lister lead something up the left side of #2 that was probably about grade 4.

photo 005 is the insane route I've been talking about. I doubt this has been done. I think it has been TR'd. Someone send it ground up and name it. It looks deadly.

photo 006 is the right side of line #2. Super steep climbing. Only done on TR as far as I know.

Lines #3,4,5,6,10 have all been done. I propose the following names.
line #3 - Mickey Mouse WI2+
line #4 - Junkyard WI3
line #5 - Hidden Gem WI3+
line #6 - Easy Gully WI
line #10 - Head Games WI 2+

[jeremy]

Justin said he met a guy there yesterday from caribou maine who has been going to grandfalls for years, twice a week sometimes. He said all the lines have been led and named in the past. Justin will get the beta from him soon. They have named, led, and graded like 4-5 seperate pillars on the tallest wall down river alone.
This guy has been to pritty much all the ice climbing areas around NB so maybe once we get his name someone might recognize him.

jeremy

[justin]

His name is Randy Dorsey, an older gentelman mabey 50- 55 ish I dont know but yeah like jeremy said, to this guy Grand Falls is home every Sunday and most every Wed. night ( pretty hardcore and sketchy if ya ask me), but him and all his buddy's have them named amungst themselves I dont know if they have the FA's but I'm going to get a hold of him this week and find out more, we are probably heading up Sat. for a bit.

[Fred]

Joe,

here are the new route names as given to me by Justin. I updated the topo so you can copy and paste it directly into the NB Ice Climbing guidebook.

Cheers!

http://www.beta-source.com/guidebooks/g ... debook.htm

[Joe]

Will do. Thanks Fred. Joe.

[Fred]

also take note that the left side of line #2 was done by Dave Lister and myself last year and he should tag a name to it but perhaps not tag an FA.

I"m certain Line #1 is waiting for a ground up ascent. It would be a sweet send. Definitely grade 5 or more. I think one could certainly tag an FA to that route.

cheers

[mathieu]

also take note that the left side of line #2 was done by Dave Lister and myself last year and he should tag a name to it but perhaps not tag an FA.

May I suggest "Little Tree Horror Show"

[Fred]

ahahaha

Mat, remember when Dave barked at me that day. LOL Dave has got to be the calmest person I know so this tells you a little about the top out on this route. Traverse on slopey mudey ground to reach a dead tree. He left a bit of mud of his own behind (no pun intended on 'behind').